Trouble with Valve gap Changing

For comparison here are some with 17K miles.
Different angles of photography(Kathos vs mine) but the bevel on the valve stem is above the keepers in both.
Pardon the flip phone pics.
 

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In terms of the valves not sitting flush with the top of the spring,
"Performance Valve Spring Set (8 pc.) with steel caps (4 pc.)
Special Valve caps provide maximum Cap to stem seal clearance."
The only way I can think of providing this is making the top of the spring sit higher and recessing the valve retainer as it is in my photos. I don't think this is an issue.

I will also open my tappet covers today and inspect everything further.
 
And here is mine with Kibble White valves, R&D Springs and Titanium retainers. Locks cam with the retainers from Web Cam.

The difference between the valve pictures is troubling. The exposed top of the valve stem is less in one than the other and the locks look deeper into the retainers than the other. Strange for something that is supposed to be a set.

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I took a look at everything yesterday. I snapped a pic of each adjuster screw and valve top. The order is I1, E1, I2, E2. None of the valve tops were chipped and they are not as deep as they look. I think the camera is just picking up reflections to make it look that way.
 

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Any replacement screw with the original rounded tip design is just going to do the same thing eventually. That rounded tip only contacts the valve stem top at one tiny spot. The wear you're seeing is the result, although I do think the factory parts are made better and last longer. This is the reason many of us switch to the elephant foot adjuster screws. They have a large "foot" on the end of the adjuster screw, picture the "foot" on the end of a C-clamp adjusting screw, only smaller. Still, it's large enough to cover and contact the entire top of the valve stem. Wear patterns like you've found are eliminated.

Install does require dis-assembly of the head, but it looks like you need to do that anyway. The rockers must be ground some so the new screw with its large head will retract enough for assembly. I used to remove the rockers and grind about 4mm off the whole bottom to achieve this .....

ElephantsFootandStock.jpg


I've changed my install procedure to just grinding a tapered hole in the rocker bottom, deep enough for the beveled top of the "foot" to retract into. Besides not having to remove as much material, this can be done with the rocker still in the head .....

Unground.jpg


GroundRocker.jpg


FootInstalled.jpg


If you do this mod, you may be able to get away with still using most of your valves although that one probably should be replaced, the top is pretty beat.
 
I have seen your elephant modded foot around the forum but I havent seen the tapered hole method. The only downside of this seems to be losing thread.
I do wonder where everyone buys their elephant foots from. I see various topics where people complain that theirs fail. I know the mikes foot fails but I think Ive read about some of the pivot feet that fail also.
Some seem cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-BUG-GHIA...s=Make:Volkswagen&hash=item3ce87e3bb8&vxp=mtr

Others seem pretty expensive http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wizemann-En...fits=Make:Porsche&hash=item5401c1c13c&vxp=mtr

Edit
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32559
Since your in here 5twins, did you ever try using the bug pack screws?
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=330668&postcount=12
 
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No, I haven't tried them yet, but as I mentioned in that thread you linked to, they will be what I use next. I have the EMPI ones in my motor now. They've been fine so far for 6 or 7 seasons and probably near 10K miles. We've used them in probably a half dozen motors so far with no problems. But, the Bugpack ones are nicer and don't cost much more. Remember, a set is for 8 rockers so you only use half of them. That makes them about $20 a set, less than any of the junk ones Mike's sells. You can still get originals but they're like $10 each, and they have this wear problem. Installing the elephant foot screws is just something I do now on any teardown. It only adds about $20 to the cost of the rebuild which really ain't shit.
 
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