Wanting to buy my first xs650. Wanting input on what to look for

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Kicker84

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Hello all,

I just moved to Washington state (JBLM). I have been looking at the xs650 for a while now, I've been wanting to build a hardtail/bobber. I don't have much experience with motorcycles but it's time I pull the trigger. I'd like to have this be a winter project and have it ready for next summer. A few questions, and I would like any other related info that is relevant. First: is there a certain year that is better than others for a project like this? Second: using parts from different model years, meaning is there a better set of years that are better for swapping parts? Lastly, kind of off topic, but is there more than 1vin on a frame. I ask because a guy is selling a neck with clean title. Thanks for any and all feedback.
 
read this thread Sticky: XS650 Model Identification/Year/VIN, Workshop Manuals, and Other Information
650Skull

That'll answer a lot of your questions,
In general 74 up for engine matching, 77 up for front end parts,
Only one VIN on the frame neck. The engine came with a number that matched that VIN.
 
there's no definitive year that's "better" as far as I know, you can bob anything... but later models i.e specials are generally regarded as more cuttable by the purists. I have a '77 and kinda regret cutting it. Even the state it was in when I got it it really deserved better than an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel hacking it in half.

So if you wanna cut half the frame off try getting something post 1980. Availabilty depends where you live too... earlier models, say mid 70s, are rarer in some places than others so I've read but you likely won't have problem there idk. I read a canadian recently say mid 70s bikes are still 10 a penny. Might not be that way where you live, sure ain't where I live.

Saying that, though, there will come a time when even the specials become somewhat prized like the standards.

post '78 had updated transmission and possibly forks too by that year, 34mm to 35mm... you might prefer having those if you're to do work on those aspects... fork lowering is especially easier on 35mm forks as kits are far easier to buy.

80s bikes started to come with electronic ignition, so if you found one with working electronics you might save cash if you wanted to move away from earlier points system. Although well kept points is reliable enough... we all like electronic lol.

Wheels are pretty much interhangable with some exceptions over spacing and axle lengths... you want mag wheels or spoked? disc or drum? Look into that some.

Honestly... a special is your best bet for chopping, anything under 79 deserves a nice restore even if with some mods.

Have a plan, a vision, ask more questions then make a decision. <--- poetry.
Throw up some links of what inspire you.
 
wait... if somebody is selling just a neck and title then... Oh, you're looking for the best combination of parts to throw on the neck? That kinda renders most of my previous post pointless lol. You can really save on postage by buying a neck lol, but then you need 99% of frame to stick it on lol in fact 99% of a bike. Wouldn't it just be easier to buy a complete bike
 
Ahhh sorry. That was confusing. The reason I was considering the neck with title is because I'm in the army living in Washington and I'm from Ohio. Since I am allowed to keep my vehicles registered in Ohio while I live here I was gonna buy the neck, have it registered in Ohio when I go home for a visit, bring it back to Washington and build. If that makes sense.
 
Buying a titled neck only.

For all intents and purposes there are 2 types of frames for the XS650. The early 70-73 and later 74-83.

You would be better off getting a later neck, 74-83, because the early frames have a different length stem on the triple compared to the later 74-83 neck. The 74 -83 models are interchangeable and more plentiful.

In 73 they called the 650 a TX650 and 74 a TX650A. The Frame had a major overhaul in 74 and other than the motor and wheels, virtually nothing else is interchangeable, so it is important any neck that is advertised as a TX or TXA650 is confirmed buy checking the vin no, (link that ggGary posted).

There are a lot of untitled bikes out there and some are in great condition so the parts can be sold to help fund your build and there are plenty of people looking for good parts.

Yes the Special frames from 78-83 are different to the Standard Frames from 74-79 but it is really the same frame with minor differences and all steering necks will interchange.

link to my Tech album with the different frames
http://www.xs650.com/forum/album.php?albumid=56
 
Thanks for all the info so far. Any big differences ifor shaft vs chain drive? I plan on converting to a hardtail so I'm guessing that a chain setup is easier to work with? Or do guys use shaft driven bikes and convert them to chain? Not too sure how that all works with a stretch. Forgive me if I'm not making sense and for my lack of technical knowledge. I'm really excited about this winter project and learning all about these bikes, I just want to get as much info as I can from guys who have more experience before I get ahead of myself.
 
All XS/TX 650's are chain driven. Read that link ggGary posted and the Tech menu or a Google search, top left.

And welcome.
 
A warning on the 78.

It has had a rear wheel conversion from a 16" to a 18" or 19", (need to confirm whether it is 18" or 19"), may be that is why it hasn't got a chain, because the conversion hasn't been finished.
Depending on the wheel used, (looks to be from an RD?0) the conversion could be a number or different issues. Could be expensive or time consuming making the parts needed.

The 80 is something again, Has 82/83 Heritage Special wheels, 78SE/79SF Gauges and the engine looks to be pre 82, (no 650 badges on the cam covers), and the barrels are smashed in pic 3. Has the BS34 carbs and looks to have the Factory TCI Ignition. Due to the earlier gauges there will be some miner wiring issues connecting them up. Need to identify all of the bike and what has been matched to what.

Get the Vin no's for the engine and frame and use the chart, HERE, to identify.
 
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I have no idea how much riding experience you have or mechanical experience. So starting with a complete running titled bike is a good place to start.t gives you a change to ride the bike and learn it's quirks. As you ride it you may find issues that effect performance, handling or reliability.
As you go along you can get these issues fixed. Once you get it running ok then start doing the mods.
Better to start with a good running bike, so you know it's going to run well after.
Starting with a box of parts and you won't know what you have until you get done. Then you may find it has high dollar issues.
Leo
 

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