BLJXS650

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Hey everybody. Just recently got my 1983 XS650 SH up and running again with the help of a local shop. Just put a new battery and regulator in but now I’m not seeing the charge I want. Battery started around 13.3 and went to just under (13.27/13.25) with everything off. Accessories on it went to 12.7-12.6 and stayed there with engine running. I got a reading of 13.3-13.6 between 3000 and 4000 rpm. Now the battery shows 12.7 running after a short ride but only climbs to 12.9 at around 4000 rpm. What should I test and what should I look for voltage-wise?
 

azman857

'80 XS 650SG Rider
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What kind of accessories are ya running? The alternator doesn't have much reserve for over lights and ignition.
 

BLJXS650

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Quick question. The regulator I have I believe it is a solid state, but I have been reading a lot lately of certain regulators that can be adjusted to bring voltage up and down. I was wondering if that is any kind of possibility with a solid state? If so, how would I be able to do that?
 

650Skull

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83's Factory SS Reg/rect are usually reliable................Those after market ones can be problematic.......What was used to replace the original.........
 

BLJXS650

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Okay, thanks you guys. Another question. To replace the alternator brushes, I know the Clymer manual for up to 1982 models states drain the oil before testing the rotor and such. To just replace the brushes, would an oil drain need to be completed? I am mostly incompetent working on this bike, super glad I got you all to fall back on.
 

bikefreakjon

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Okay, thanks you guys. Another question. To replace the alternator brushes, I know the Clymer manual for up to 1982 models states drain the oil before testing the rotor and such. To just replace the brushes, would an oil drain need to be completed? I am mostly incompetent working on this bike, super glad I got you all to fall back on.

You do not need to drain the oil.
 

fredintoon

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Okay, thanks you guys. Another question. To replace the alternator brushes, I know the Clymer manual for up to 1982 models states drain the oil before testing the rotor and such. To just replace the brushes, would an oil drain need to be completed? I am mostly incompetent working on this bike, super glad I got you all to fall back on.

Hi BLJ and welcome,
I think you are mis-reading your Clymers.
If (for instance) you remove the right-hand engine casting without draining the oil it'll run out when you do.
There's no need to drain the oil when changing the alternator brushes or removing the left-side engine casting to work on stuff underneath it.
 

BLJXS650

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Hi BLJ and welcome,
I think you are mis-reading your Clymers.
If (for instance) you remove the right-hand engine casting without draining the oil it'll run out when you do.
There's no need to drain the oil when changing the alternator brushes or removing the left-side engine casting to work on stuff underneath it.
I think that's exactly what happened. I'm definitely testing things this weekend. Thanks all!
 
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