When doing an oil change

[clabedan]

Hi,
Just about to do my first oil change on a xs2 and have a few questions (also related to an oil leak)
1. Is it necessary to replace the drain plugs by new ones?
2. Do they have seals or washers (and if so do they need to be replaced)
3. I plan on replacing the oil filter, would you advise me to replace the sump filter as well if it is the original one ?

Many thanks for your answers
Chris

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[weekendrider]

Hi Chris,
The drain plugs have reuseable copper washers. If they aren't sealing well heat them to a cherry red and drop in water. Be careful with the heat so you don't melt them.
The filters are wire mesh strainers and can be washed and reused. The sump filter is known to tear. A JB Weld patch can fix that. To prevent it don't rev the bike till the oil has warmed and thinned. I(on PamcoPetes suggestion) generally keep it below 2K till the oil is warmed abit. It must work, I have around 16K on a filter now with no signs of it being beat up.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi,
Just about to do my first oil change on a xs2

Hi Chris,
what 'rider sez.
In addition, the drain plugs tend to be done up real tight.
You will probably need a 27mm box-end wrench or a 27mm socket on a breaker bar to shift them.
A time or two I've had to use a 27mm socket on an air-percussion-wrench to do the job.
And it's normal to have a small brush shape of steel shavings stuck to the drain-plug magnets.
If there's broken off gear teeth or transmission dogs stuck there, that's another story.

 

[payaso13]

Also do a search here on sump plates...don't over tighten bolts.there meant to break if over done. And if you search sump screen and jb weld you'll probably find some pictures on where to apply it. I did it and like was said before I think the main thing is to let your bike (oil) warm before you ride

 

[crazyorigin]

I had a leaky sump plate on the bike I am riding now, when I did the oil change I had the sump gasket and new main screen filter and the sump filter, got them from MikesXS. The new sump fuller offered has a mesh plate type screen behind the outer brass screen so it won't tear as easily. I would expect the paper gaskets on the side case filter to need changing, both front and rear ones, and the sump plate gasket will likely also need to be replaced unless it is quite new. I like to replace stuff like that when I get an old machine regardless of when it may have been done so I don't need to worry anything failing or not going back together right so I would need to wait for new parts to come in.

You probably know this but it's best to drain the oil when the engine is hot, the thick oil they need does not flow well when its cold and a lot more will drain out when its good and hot.

 

[XSLeo]

I recommend patching the torn sump filter. The side filter is seldom torn. Both are designed to be cleaned and reused.
I would get new gaskets for the sump plate and the side cover filter, one small kidney shaped on under the filter and the round one under the cover.
Getting all the gasket surfaces clean is important. Any old gasket left will cause leaks.
Getting new drain plug gaskets ain't a bad idea.
when installing the new gaskets I put a thin coat of Anti-Seize on both sides of the new gaskets. This seals them as well as allows them to be removed without damage.
Some like engine oil or plain old grease. Any sort of gasket sealer will make them tough to remove or reuse.
A bit of shopping on Ebay will get you an extra sump plate. I have an extra sump plate with a clean filter mounted on it. At oil changes I just swap the dirty filter and sump plate as a unit. this speeds up the oil change and then you can clean the dirty parts at your leisure.
Leo

 

[XSLeo]

Oops, double post.
Leo

 

[wherearewe]

Hi Chris,
what 'rider sez.
In addition, the drain plugs tend to be done up real tight.
You will probably need a 27mm box-end wrench or a 27mm socket on a breaker bar to shift them.
A time or two I've had to use a 27mm socket on an air-percussion-wrench to do the job.
And it's normal to have a small brush shape of steel shavings stuck to the drain-plug magnets.
If there's broken off gear teeth or transmission dogs stuck there, that's another story.

Not sure i agree with that. They are torque specced to 30 foot pounds. Ive always found tight then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn is ample. Ive encountered one before done up so tight i near tore my shoulder getting it loose. They will seal fine with the copper washer in place.

 

[XSLeo]

They are supposed to be torqued to the 30 LB. spec but a lot are not. The gasket goes bad and starts to leak. Instead of replacing the gasket some muttonhead PO just tightens the plug more trying to stop the leak.
Many have found them almost impossible to get out.
I have found a long breaker bar with a six point socket, blocked up tight on the plug with a large friend to set on the bike to steady it, put a good firm pull on the breaker bar then smack the breaker bar with a large mallet. This smack send a vibration down the bar to the socket, helping the plug break loose.
An impact wrench, electric or air can help too.
Leo