XS2 scrambler build

Update

Issued fixed it was a loose wire connection under my gas tank. I can't believe it took me a hour to figure that out. Now on to adjusting the valves hopefully that goes smoother
 
I am stumped. I just adjusted the valves, points gap, and static ignition timing. My left side carb is still shooting out cold air. the muffler is slightly warm but not burning me like it should. I know this wasn't an issue before because I rechecked a video of me running it and I could see the head pipe smoking. I also tried cleaning out the carb bowl but it looked clean. the only thing I can think of is when I adjusted the float level I messed it up. When I did empty the carb bowl a ton of fuel came out of it. Also, I am getting a good spark on both cylinders.

I don't think it's compression since it was fine a few days before. Anyways thanks for reading let me know if you know what it might be
 
Well if you're absolutely certain ignition/timing is ok on that side you might want to take the carb off, clean and blow out all the jets and passageways again. Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get 'em good and clean.
 
Try swapping the plug wires left to right. See if the misfire follows the plug wire?
 
Try swapping the plug wires left to right. See if the misfire follows the plug wire?
Points ignition.... can't do that unless you also swap the coil wiring. It's a dual coil system.
 
I just remembered you have the tank off. Would be nice and easy to do as @willis suggested. Swap the plug leads and swap the coil wires going to the points. At least that would tell you if the plug lead and coil is good on that side.
 
Short comments
You have spark
You have Compression
I find it easier to find an electrical problem than a carburetor problem ..taking them off and getting them back getting it tight again I avoid as much as possible

Having said that fumbling it up with points is also possible ..old / dirty / washers dropped / set wrong and so
Follow the instructions and the strobe light gives the answer. If that is right something will fire up
Recently there has been threads on that .It is important to have it clean and follow the instructions
One can watch the gap at the points there is a little sparking happening there also

So I do everything else before getting off the carburetors I also have had virtually none carburetor problems over the years
The shifting left to right and vice versa is a good trick especially if a waste spark system.

My guess is the ignition is not right . I Dont think I ever had such large problems that the carburetor is not letting trough that much that full choke or other throttle
positions gives audio signals shooting or backfiring or knocking -- It can of course give signals with ignition set wrong but then there are test lamps and strobe lights voltmeter to help finding the problem that the carburetor functionality does not have
 
Have you put on new wires? The old ones may just be too tired. Setting the points can be difficult because sometimes they move as you're tightening them. It's been forever and a day since I've had anything with points. My first vehicle was a 1970 f100 302 with 3 spd column shift. I never realized there were 6 volt and 12 volt ignition systems it had a 12v coil and it burned up points every few days. I got really good at setting points then, but it only had one set of points. I don't think the same issue applies here, but if the coils have an intermittent problem after they warm up it can be hard to figure out.
 
Have you put on new wires? The old ones may just be too tired. Setting the points can be difficult because sometimes they move as you're tightening them. It's been forever and a day since I've had anything with points. My first vehicle was a 1970 f100 302 with 3 spd column shift. I never realized there were 6 volt and 12 volt ignition systems it had a 12v coil and it burned up points every few days. I got really good at setting points then, but it only had one set of points. I don't think the same issue applies here, but if the coils have an intermittent problem after they warm up it can be hard to figure out.

I didn't replace them. When I first got the bike I noticed they were loose. I cut about an inch off each end and then retwisted the spark plug and coil connection back. I did notice that the points moved a lot when setting them but I think I got them about right.

Also, I tried swapping the coil and plug wires. when I started the bike the right sized warmed up and the left still stayed cold. I think that leaves me with a carb issue? I might try swapping the bowls and seeing how it reacts.
 
1. What's changed between the other day and now that it only runs on one cylinder?
2. Sometimes adjustments, or tinkering with something makes it worse.
3. Are you still running a single outlet tank or have you gotten the original back on? If so are you sure both fuel valves are on?

I'm leaning towards #1 because you've been trying each day to make it run better. Are you doing multiple things at one time? Or is the static timing adjustments you've done the only thing. Sometimes it's better to do one thing at a time.

Just thinking out loud, you'll get it eventually. Keep it up man!
 
Update

I am 80% sure that I figured out the not running on one cylinder problem. The new air filters I got are pretty cheap and some of the glue they made them out of seems to have clogged the carbs. I scrapped off all the glue and used some new glue and now the exhaust blows hot. I have never been more excited to burn myself before.

My petcock rebuild kits finally got here along with my seat. I hate to say it but I am going to have to cut the back frame loop. I have a friend that has a proper shop where he can re-weld it on. The bike already has a U at the end that the seat can sit on but it's way too long right now. I will get some pictures to make this make sense.

Speaking of the gas tank I need some help sourcing parts My gas tank cap latch is broken. It was like that when I bought the bike. I checked a few websites and can not find them. Here is a pic of it
9e993ddf-ef4a-52e9-bd9b-ebafa2598d3f.jpeg
 
No first hand knowledge of the quality.
I've bought 2 from other places. I'm pretty sure they are the same. Quality is very good. Hard to tell from a NOS OEM. On my third year with one and have had no problems.
 
Ahhh ..this good thing Friends ... don't have any .. so I have to weld myself
not seldom regretting it

I have a friend that has a proper shop where he can re-weld it on

But that cap was expensive $ 43 + freight I put it here as an option if the friend has the shop it is perhaps not entirely impossible to weld or bolt the missing part back onto the existing cap .. Bending Hammer and drill + few weld spots
There is also small holes in the latch part and the rubber seal is behind the mechanism
Something would be possible to manufacture --- perhaps small bolts
$ 50 here and $ 50 there can become a big grand total .. And if there are things not yet Known on the bike .. A plan can be not to buy new non functional parts just yet
 
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