Your thoughts on oil loss.

[MaxPete]

..or the new resident's guide to The Island along with the ferry schedule.

77 - I will only point out that folks like Bill and I were watching and responding to this thread to learn and try to help a fellow 650 owner with a problem. Your intrusion into the discussion is neither helpful nor welcome.

 

[Yamaha77]

..or the new resident's guide to The Island along with the ferry schedule.

77 - I will only point out that folks like Bill and I were watching and responding to this thread to learn and try to help a fellow 650 owner with a problem. Your intrusion into the discussion is neither helpful nor welcome.

its an open forum. When it happens to me I deal with it. Anyone can comment however they like. I think joking, kept to a minimum, is fine. Insults are reflections of a base human nature and an inability to control ones emotions. When you insult someone, youre actually giving away your power. Behavioral Science 101

 

[weekendrider]

gggGary the problem is the adapter.
It should have been plumbed with 1/4 inch instead of 3/8's, the short length and the fact fact I eyeballed it to center make for fitment problems at the cam cover. I should have used a similar plug end the short chainsaw nipple puts alot of stress on the outter threads to get it air tight.
I have the tank and line regulators dialed to 100 lb.s. The gauge you see is for reading the loss and is plumbed after the 1mm orifice.
For anyone wanting to build their own call round and ask if the store stocks wire bits. That is where the #60 or 1mm bits live. You won't find them in the "regular" bit selection. It will save you gas and time.

 

[gggGary]

Too high tech for me WER I just feed in air listen to see where the hiss is coming from... Shrug.

Been using one like this for a decade or 3 I think I have my money's worth out of it. I was suspicious of the gauge one time so put a different one on it but the readings didn't change.
It has a standard coupling at the hose end. I suppose an inline pressure regulator would be handy.
PS I vote for a split intake valve seal as your oil loss. OR the leaky rear tire thing..........

 

[MaxPete]

Oh oh.....another potential passenger for the ferry boat to The Island....

 

[Yamaha77]

Oh oh.....another potential passenger for the ferry boat to The Island....

I just want to encourage you with this notion: ppl who tend to insult perfect strangers, are not, in their innermost core, happy ppl. Its a psychological fact. And I gather that most ppl here are close to, are or have long been retired and could tend to the unhappy.

I dont think any old person should feel like they have no valve, but i also think they should not be cranky about their state or anything else. Be happy

 

[weekendrider]

I vote for a split intake valve seal as your oil loss.

Wouldn't an intake seal show up at the plug(fouled) or in the exhaust(smoke)?

 

[MaxPete]

Actually, I disagree.

Not that it matters what anyone's age or employment status is, but I think that most of us are working, most of us are very happy people and most us just want to learn and have some friendly contact with folks who have a similar set of interests.

Doesn't it puzzle you that you repeatedly manage to annoy people from all over the world (Australia, the US, UK, Canada......) - and yet, everyone else seems to get along just fine? No, I'm sure it doesn't puzzle you, because, 77, we have watched you repeatedly either started a new thread of your own or barge onto someone else's thread, made silly statements, baited people, lost your temper and ignored and more importantly, ridiculed well-informed, sincerely given and wise advice, then put a slew of people on "ignore" - and then you have switched over to being all sweet and innocent again.....because I think that is how you planned it to go all along.

I think that most of us doubt that you even know how to ride a motorcycle, let alone own one, or three, or whatever the number today.

I must admit, you've gotten a number of us to rise to the bait a couple of time...but I suspect you won't do as well going forward, so I'd suggest you just find another site on which to be a troll and an amateur psychologist.

Anyhow, enjoy your upcoming trip to....France?...or wherever your "own business" takes you.

 

[MaxPete]

Wouldn't an intake seal show up at the plug(fouled) or in the exhaust(smoke)?

Yup, that's what I would have thought too. The oil is either leaking somewhere onto something - or it is being burned in the combustion chamber due to either a leaky top end (valve guides or seals or both) - or from below (which means piston rings). Hmmmm. - a puzzling problem WER.

 

[Paul Sutton]

Just wondering, when you pressurise the cylinder do you have a valve in place to isolate the gauge from the air supply. Also, if you do this at TDC it may run like a steam engine. If you go for pistons at bottom of stroke then the valves will be open. At TDC you will have to lock the crank some how?

Just wondering??

 

[gggGary]

Yes TDC one side then the other. Doesn't need to be high pressure to hear the hiss. A 17mm on the rotor nut will do it.

 

[grizld1]

Right, Paul, with a twin cylinder engine especially it's necessary to keep the motor from turning over when air pressure is applied. You can't just put the bike in gear--it will take off if rear wheel contacts ground or lift. If you get the back wheel off the ground and lock the brake down hard, that will usually do the job. If that fails, jam chain and sprocket with a rag. There's more than one way to do a leak down test. Gary's method will tell you if and where you have a leak, just not how much of a leak. WR's device will get you closer. What I use is an old Craftsman combination regulator and filter (I don't want to pump compressor garf into the motor) with a shutoff valve and a second gauge in the line to the motor. With the valve I can apply pressure slowly, so I know if I have the drive train locked down tight enough. The regulator gets set to 100 psi going in. The second gauge tells how much of that pressure the motor retains. A healthy street motor should lose no more than 10%, so if the second gauge reads less than 90 lbs., there's work to do; the ear will tell you where. WR's setup uses the gauge on the compressor regulator for the input reading, which is fine, but I like to have both gauges where I can see them.

 

[fredintoon]

I was just reading through the manual and there is a tube that goes from the head gasket to the rear tire (the rear tire is inflated by oil - when the tire spins it helps to cool the engine down by circulating the oil - and shares the same oil as the engine crankcase) and it could be your rear tire oil is leaking... Have fun!

Hi Yam'77,
I thought you bailed?
Welcome back anyway.
But no, if the back tire itself was leaking oil it'd affect the handling, I'd rather suspect a seal failure in one of the oil transfer systems rotating joints; the pressure joint being the most likely culprit.
But what you need is a new calendar, April 1st is still two months away.
But back to the real world, any ex Britbike owner would be delighted to have an oil loss of only 1/2pint per 100 miles.

 

[Yamaha77]

Hi Yam'77,
I thought you bailed?
Welcome back anyway.
But no, if the back tire itself was leaking oil it'd affect the handling, I'd rather suspect a seal failure in one of the oil transfer systems rotating joints; the pressure joint being the most likely culprit.
But what you need is a new calendar, April 1st is still two months away.
But back to the real world, any ex Britbike owner would be delighted to have an oil loss of only 1/2pint per 100 miles.

I love this reply! LOL Im laughing my ass off. Thanks for being so good natured! I mean that, no sarcasm at all.

 

[weekendrider]

Paul when using the blower with the nipple my line pressure is only 15#. TDC both valves closed. On three different tests the crank only moved alittle once.
Like gggGary said it doesn't take much to hear the air.

Grizld1 I am using three gauges, the tank regulator, a plumbed inline regulator with gauge and filter and then the test gauge. I isolated the test gauge with the quick coupler to make sure I didn't have pressure drop before hook up. I can see how a valve plumbed in would be better. I do lose some air hooking up the quick coupler no matter how quick I think I am. The nipple between the male coupler and the gauge was filled with a 3/4" plug of jbweld and then drilled with the 1mm bit so not much in the way of volume gets to the cylinder. I'll get round to making a better plug hole to test gauge adapter in a week or so. A person can spend an hour or so just getting the ceramic cleaned out of a plug.

 

[grizld1]

The trick to getting the core (insulator and electrode) out of a plug is to put a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool and cut away the crimp where the steel holds the insulator. Then cut off the ground clip, set a punch on the electrode tip, give 'er a tap, and the core will pop out clean. Yep, a restrictor is needful, I used J.B. too; those itty-bitty bit sets that Dremel sells come in handy occasionally. I went a different way with the cylinder hookup: butchered a compression tester.