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Mikey's new to him 1980 650
- Thread starter Mikey
- Start date
Do to the generosity of Jim I now have a rebuilt vacuum pet cock 
And when I took the old petcock off I starting hearing what I thought was rust rattling around inside the tank
I shook out as much as I could but when I took a magnet to the dried crud nothing wanted to stick to the magnet
old dried varnish?
I just drained it a few days ago because the old petcock leaked
That's rust. You can fix it. I would try Metal Rescue on that.View attachment 194943 View attachment 194942 View attachment 194941 View attachment 194940 View attachment 194939
And when I took the old petcock off I starting hearing what I thought was rust rattling around inside the tank
I shook out as much as I could but when I took a magnet to the dried crud nothing wanted to stick to the magnet
old dried varnish?
wouldn't the rust still stick to the magnet (iron oxide?)
It's pretty weak at best. I guess I should try it. Rust is what I see.
I have to agree it looks like rust especially inside the tank but that's a magnet from a microwave so it's very stong
Bookmarked.........has carb kits for the GS650 containing the idle mixture screw. cant get then so be interesting to know if they are the correct one. same as the XS650 BS34's, they were set from the factory with no part no
For all practical purposes, iron oxide (rust) is non-magnetic.
That doesn't look good Mikey.
Time to do a little poking around literally
Bummer
I recommend a kit from Caswell Plating. Even if the steel is thin, this stuff will seal it up. I'm getting another tank ready for it now.
I recommend a kit from Caswell Plating. Even if the steel is thin, this stuff will seal it up. I'm getting another tank ready for it now.
That might be my last resort
I'm just Leary about tank liners and if the rust isn't completely removed it will reappear back through the lining
"rust never sleeps"
I'm just Leary about tank liners and if the rust isn't completely removed it will reappear back through the lining
"rust never sleeps"
To have rust, electrolyte is required. If you remove the rust and seal the tank properly, you won’t get rust in there again. If you leave a path for moisture to get in, all bets are off.
No, the Caswell kit does not come with acid etch.
Not according to their website. First they state this.... "reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface. "
This is patently false and (to me) an absolutely ridiculous statement to make. The epoxy that prefers rust over clean metal hasn't been invented. Anyone who's ever done bodywork on a rusty old car knows that any pitted rust left behind will eventually return, I don't care how much epoxy/bondo/fiberglass you throw at it. Any rust left will contain the ingredients to resume it's destruction. Anything... with the exception of flash or surface rust will return..... and that's from 50+ yrs of metal/body work.
Further down in the instructions they say..... "Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. "
So, if it likes a "rough rusty surface," why are we throwing screws in there trying to remove the rust? Link.
All that's called for after the screws is an acetone rinse.... no mention of any rust removal acids.
I know some of you, like Marty have had good luck with it. I'd chalk that up more to your skills at rust removal than the epoxy itself.
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