When you address your center stand I hope you find another 'JIM' way to bumper it from the Commando mufflers. I'm thinking of making a bracket that hangs off the muffler rail.
(and post it)
(and post it)
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Jim's 1980 SG Miss September
- Thread starter Jim
- Start date
Jim, bring a square of "2 x 4" (in your jacket pocket) with you. Roll the bike onto it when you park, and the center stand will deploy much, much easier. (I'm a lazy s#*t) 
p.s. the 2 x 4 is lighter than the brick I'm banging my head on...
p.s. the 2 x 4 is lighter than the brick I'm banging my head on...
Just a short length of heater hose on the tang is all it takes. The muffler doesn't get hot enough that far back to melt it. Mine's been on there for years and I've never needed to replace it .....
Jim found this on another forum, thought it would add a bit of background to your recent rotor switch experiment.
"1 Coulomb passing a single point in one second = i Ampere
Power in watts = voltage x current (amperes)
i HP = 745.7 watts
A 32 ampere motorcycle alternator is about 85% efficient. So, 15 volts x 32 amperes x 1.15 = 517 watts max power or .7 HP (power draw from the crankshaft.
So if your motor cycle load is only 250 watts you only need .33 HP. That leaves an extra .37 HP to drive the rear tire......if you want it or saves the fuel equivalent if you don't and (this is the kicker) it saves 260 watts of heat because of the second law of thermodynamics that states all generated energy not consumed results in heat. That heat,not sufficiently dissipated (cooled), will overheat the stator coils and kill them. So, to summarize, a series regulator that literally opens up the stator coil circuits when not needed is better than the shunt regulator that dumps the excess power to ground. "
"1 Coulomb passing a single point in one second = i Ampere
Power in watts = voltage x current (amperes)
i HP = 745.7 watts
A 32 ampere motorcycle alternator is about 85% efficient. So, 15 volts x 32 amperes x 1.15 = 517 watts max power or .7 HP (power draw from the crankshaft.
So if your motor cycle load is only 250 watts you only need .33 HP. That leaves an extra .37 HP to drive the rear tire......if you want it or saves the fuel equivalent if you don't and (this is the kicker) it saves 260 watts of heat because of the second law of thermodynamics that states all generated energy not consumed results in heat. That heat,not sufficiently dissipated (cooled), will overheat the stator coils and kill them. So, to summarize, a series regulator that literally opens up the stator coil circuits when not needed is better than the shunt regulator that dumps the excess power to ground. "
The Ever Shrinking List.
Rebuilt the rear master cylinder with a K&L kit.....
Installed it and the reservoir. Bled the brakes, adjusted the brake light switch. Firm pedal, no leaks and light works. Buttoned up.... rear brakes, done. Sorta...
Only had one stainless bolt to install the master and had to put an ugly original in there. I'll replace it soon as I order more from Bolt Depot.
The clamps for the brake line were a little rusty. I bead blasted them, silver base, clear coat.... better than new.
NOS Ebay brushes showed up yesterday. Installed 'em. Repainted the YAMAHA on the left engine cover and closed that task out.
I think the hardest part of getting this close is fighting the urge to just slap stuff on there so's I can give it a test ride. I'm constantly forcing myself to finish off like I started... clean and polish or replace everything. Putting that old master cylinder bolt on there was almost painful...
List of remaining items:
Clips for the rear caliper stay tube bolts. Done.
Adjust and lube chain (off stand). Done.
Bend sprocket lock tabs. Done.
Rework centerstand and install. Done
Rework foot on sidestand and install. Done
Rework tank badges and install. Done
Clamp for front brake line.
Install speedo cable. Done.
Rework horn bracket for hi-note horn.
Install rear pegs. Done
New grips. Done
Mirrors. Done
That'll get me to short test rides. Long tern I need to make fwd. pegs and controls.
Oh.... and give the ol' girl a bath. After a year and a half of reassembly, she's covered in dust.
Rebuilt the rear master cylinder with a K&L kit.....
Installed it and the reservoir. Bled the brakes, adjusted the brake light switch. Firm pedal, no leaks and light works. Buttoned up.... rear brakes, done. Sorta...
Only had one stainless bolt to install the master and had to put an ugly original in there. I'll replace it soon as I order more from Bolt Depot.
The clamps for the brake line were a little rusty. I bead blasted them, silver base, clear coat.... better than new.
NOS Ebay brushes showed up yesterday. Installed 'em. Repainted the YAMAHA on the left engine cover and closed that task out.
I think the hardest part of getting this close is fighting the urge to just slap stuff on there so's I can give it a test ride. I'm constantly forcing myself to finish off like I started... clean and polish or replace everything. Putting that old master cylinder bolt on there was almost painful...
List of remaining items:
Clamp for front brake line.
Rework horn bracket for hi-note horn.
That'll get me to short test rides. Long tern I need to make fwd. pegs and controls.
Oh.... and give the ol' girl a bath. After a year and a half of reassembly, she's covered in dust.
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You’re gettin down to the short list there fella! Next thing you know, Jed’s a millionaire!
Almost forgot.... two black fenders that need to be candied and installed. 
Jim, I'm curious.
Your footpeg retainer nut and washer is in the upper half of this pic. My XS1B footpeg retainer nut and larger chrome washer with lockwasher is in the lower half of this pic.
Did they change the mounting system, to use a longer nut, smaller flat washer, minus the lockwasher?
Your footpeg retainer nut and washer is in the upper half of this pic. My XS1B footpeg retainer nut and larger chrome washer with lockwasher is in the lower half of this pic.
Did they change the mounting system, to use a longer nut, smaller flat washer, minus the lockwasher?
I don't think they did Steve. That's the hardware that was on the bike when I took 'em off. Didn't look right to me either, but they cleaned up pretty good so I added them to my ever growing list of stuff to revisit after she's up and running. I suspect smaller nuts, bigger flat washer and a lock washer is prolly how it should be.
Okay, just concerned. We've had discussions on the hourglass shaped footpeg mount rubber bushings, and I've been experimenting with square o-rings to help confine motion and improve their longevity.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/footrest-bracket-mounting-rubbers-are-they-gold-plated.36429/
http://www.xs650.com/threads/footrest-bracket-mounting-rubbers-are-they-gold-plated.36429/
The right one was trashed.... left was salvageable....
Cleaned everything and polished. New washers and acorn nut. When I installed it on the clutch perch, it was too far forward due to wear. Edit: I know the nut is adjustable... It's seized up solid. Couldn't break it loose without causing damage to the stalk. After various washer combo's failed to position it right, I made a shim washer from .012" aluminum tape....
Lines up perfectly now...
Mo. doesn't require any mirrors... so I don't need both. This one will do for now.
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Guess I finally have a part for your project !
Yup, The match to your lft mirror and rt. replacement is on my shelf. Would enjoy finally seeing it go to use
Yup, The match to your lft mirror and rt. replacement is on my shelf. Would enjoy finally seeing it go to use
What do you want for it Randy?Guess I finally have a part for your project !
Yup, The match to your lft mirror and rt. replacement is on my shelf. Would enjoy finally seeing it go to use
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