Mikey's new to him 1980 650

You won't find the mix screw or it's associated parts (spring, washer, o-ring) on the 650 carb diagrams because they never sold any of those parts. The screw was capped over at the factory and you weren't supposed to mess with it. Yamaha uses similar CV carbs on lots of their other bikes and many of them do list mix screws. So, through careful research and measuring on eBay and from those other model's parts diagrams, I was able to determine this 12R-14105 screw was the same one used in the 650s. Took a chance and bought some, and they are indeed an exact match.
 
Part no for the Japanese 4E3 BS34's Pilot screws Starts with 3L1 which is the Euro Custom model also for the Canadian and Oceania BS34's so in the non US market these parts were available.

Because the US market was so dominant there are no US parts suppliers that have that information because they were not allowed to sell those parts due to your EPA mandated environmental restaurants so all your aftermarket and yamaha parts suppliers do not have that info or are they allowed to use it.

Japanese 4E3 parts diagram........cross references with partzilla, parts manuals from the650cafe and biker.net and converted to English with the US specs included where they differ. All based around the Pilot screw and Jet needle/needle jet .
TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  030.jpg TX650 (4E3) Parts manual  031.jpg4E3-3W6-3U6 TEXT copyright.jpg
 
Back at it today (been making pasta sauce)
Laid the bike on the right side to degrease underneath it Ugh what a mess
I think the push rod seal is shot (plenty of slop around the push rod) so I ordered that and some more tygon fuel line (5/16 id)
Now I'm thinking for a fuel filter I could try a visu 90 degree gas filter (might be a better choice than a generic) to give my self a little more room
(I know a parts replacer question ) If I'm using 5/16 line I need a 5/16 filter (there's a lot of 1/4 filters out there )
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I think 5/16" fuel line is too big. I think you need 1/4", or better yet a metric size (6-7mm). MikesXS used to sell wonderful fuel line, thin wall and an exact match to the original, but they don't anymore. But YamahaXS650.com may have it. They seem to be selling lots of older stock that MikesXS used to sell but no longer does .....

https://yamahaxs650.com/product/black-rubber-fuel-line/

Besides a new pushrod seal, you'll need the bushing that goes in the shaft behind it too. That's why the rod wiggles so much, the bushing is worn.
 
I'll order the bushing and try and figure out how to make it work
This being a parts replacer is getting tougher by the day
But I'm beginning to like the challenges
Thanks !!
 
I'll order the bushing and try and figure out how to make it work
This being a parts replacer is getting tougher by the day
But I'm beginning to like the challenges
Thanks !!
Is the pushrod bushing from xs650.com worth buying or search for an OEM part
edit: looks like McMaster-carr has one
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6679k12/=oezsl8
Does McMaster-Carr send you an invoice to pay ?
It's been a long time ago since I have ordered from them
 
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when I placed my order this is what it said
Payment method
Invoice
Like I said it's been a long time since I last bought from them
 
I don't know if McMaster-Carr will invoice you. I've always paid up front with my Mastercard.

You might also consider a slightly longer bushing (12mm). Here's a write-up I did, see post #64 .....

http://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4
I have the 10mm bushings ordered so I'll go with them for now but of course on that thread you talked about re clocking the worm gear
As long as I have it apart I might as well check that out too
Thanks !!
 
When it comes to things mechanical, you have to. The Devil is in the details. Over the years, many little "fixes" and improvements have been developed by owners for these bikes, but you have to know what you've got to begin with to decide whether or not they can be applied to your particular machine.
 
Is this the right parts # for the push rod seal ? # 27

OIL SEAL, SD-TYPE
93102-08206-00
The bushings are coming from McMaster-Car but I ordered a seal from somewhere but can't find whom from (another senior moment)
Time to order a few more seals
 

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Took time off from the garden (juice Pasta sauce and feeding the neighbors)
I actually got things done
Got the chain off using my nifty new tool (not a curse word or drop of blood )
The sprockets looked good 17t / 34t once chain is cleaned up I think it will be fine (bought some heavy duty gloves for the de greasing)
Front sprocket was loosen enough to be taken off by hand
Ok a parts replacer question I want to replace the master link with new one does the markings on the chain tell me what master link to get
The chain has Japan on it and DID 50 HDS
Also got the push rod seal out (parts are slow to get here )
tomorrow I'll get the PR bushing out
McMaster-Car got the parts to me in 2 days (well less if you kept track of the clock)from what time of day I ordered)


Thanks MIkey
 

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I use DID chains. They have 3 non-oring chains. I think they each have their own master link. I buy the same type of chain for all my bikes. I got my spares from the independent bike shop where I buy my chains.
 
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