My engine rebuild from scratch!!

it looks amazing airwolfie well done with the painting especially the frame which is super smooth:thumbsup:
 
Looking good, Airwolfie. I've been looking at the kickstart stuff - that is the one part in the whole of these engines that seems to instill a sense of foreboding. Peanut has mastered the art, too, I see.

Anlaf
 
Installing the engine on your own can be tricky, at best it's easier if you have at least another pair of hands to help out! Even better if they are familiar with building anything of sorts!(took me ages to "communicate" with the missus! Bless her! She did help!! Even though it took almost 20 mins to get the frame in the right place!!)

I decided to use the lie-down method. Lay the engine on its RIGHT side, preferably on a blanket or soft ground. I used our picnic blanket on the lawn, made for a nice soft place to rest!!

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Now get your helping hand to maneuver the frame over the engine, taking care not to scratch the frame or the engine if it's been painted. (inevitably I did scratch BOTH!!)

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I took most things off the frame to make it easier to lift, I'm sure you COULD do it with forks and swingarm installed, I just preferred it this way.

You will have to keep jiggeling and shifting the frame to get the bolts in, it takes a bit of headscratching, but I figured it out eventually, so it can't be that hard!!:D Just remember the frame is triangular so one side will be lower than the other, you alsodon't have to do ALL the bolts. I did the two front ones, and the bottom one, once upright, I added the top mounts which pulled everything in place. Then simply torque them to spec

I install my motor in the frame the same way but use lots of blue or green masking tape works great. excellent thread BTW:thumbsup:
 
Hmm... Those 3 bolts don't take washers?

Valve cover next. Make sure this bit is in its place!

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Clean all mating surfaces, add liquid gasket sealer around the bolt holes and around the can chain tunnel, again make sure its nice and thin, you don't want this oozing out into the engine.

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I placed the gasket on the top again as my barrels were in there, it made for easier fitting.

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Three bolts are needed here, two 8mm and one 6mm

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Two big ones go in next to the spark plug holes

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The small one goes in the back

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Torque them up to spec.

You should have something like this...

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I believe I discarded # 8 thinking it would've been available to purchase online. I know, dumb move. I was looking at your threads but I didn't see it anywhere. Help? LOL

v055.jpg
 
I believe I discarded # 8 thinking it would've been available to purchase online. I know, dumb move. I was looking at your threads but I didn't see it anywhere. Help? LOL

Not to butt in here, as I have been following AirWolfe's thread know I am going to have to be doing some of this in the future.

But on the part you are trying to figure out, it is on post #52 that he puts it in the head/valve cover with the o-ring. Hope this helps.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=312401&postcount=52
 
Ah... Now I see it. Ooops. Still, can't find them online anywhere. I swear I had everything I took off in a box. :-:)banghead:

Not to butt in here, as I have been following AirWolfe's thread know I am going to have to be doing some of this in the future.

But on the part you are trying to figure out, it is on post #52 that he puts it in the head/valve cover with the o-ring. Hope this helps.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=312401&postcount=52
 
Yes Carbon, you are right. The o rings come with that set from MikesXS, but the sleeves are discontinued, but I was lucky enough to find them on eBay. I must've had them placed in the bag with all the rusty dowel pins and discarded them.
 
Yes Carbon, you are right. The o rings come with that set from MikesXS, but the sleeves are discontinued, but I was lucky enough to find them on eBay. I must've had them placed in the bag with all the rusty dowel pins and discarded them.

Oh right #8 :doh:
it was early sorry about that
 
Airwolfie,

I just came across your rebuild thread since I am ready to embark on mine. One thing I noticed is the position of the Shift Fork Guide Bar relative to the Stopper or Selector Plate.

On my '76, the Starwheel end of the Bar is notched. The end of the Selector Plate fits into this notch, which brings the Bar out a little bit. You can see in one of my Album images the impression on the Selector Plate where it has rested in the bar notch.

The end of your Selector Plate is positioned in front of the bar and the bar is recessed into the engine more than it should be (I'm thinking). The 1st & 2nd Attached Thumbnail images are yours, the 3rd Thumbnail is an image of my mechanism.

The 4th Attached Thumbnail shows where the Stopper (Selector) Plate has fit into the notch in the Shift Fork Guide Bar. 5th Thumbnail is the Starwheel end of the Shaft where the notch is.

Take a look at the images of my Gear Selector Mechanism Album (link below), specifically Image #'s 3, 9, 16, 19 and 61.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/album.php?u=5154

Perhaps there was a design change that I don't have in my '76. :shrug:

Hope this helps! :)
 

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Excellent catch YL76! That guidebar receives oil from a gallery on the farside, and the outboard end needs that aluminium plug (sometimes missing).

Other members have reported shifting issues that could be caused by an improperly seated drum guide plate...
 
I was just perusing the parts diagrams on Partzilla for that very thing - the plugs seen on the ends of some years' shafts. Mine didn't have one.....or I don't recall ever seeing one. Sure hope I didn't lose it....unknowingly.

I don't want to get off track on this wonderful thread, but are you indicating that I need to install such a plug (OEM 90334-10007-00 or 256-15439-00), TwoManyXS1Bs?
 
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