oil filter

I just put a strip of aluminum sheet as a patch over the screen tear and epoxied it in place. Serves as a guard and covers the breach in the mesh.
 
inxs you ever deal with Heiden tuning?

Reason I ask is most of the engine parts and such come from them anyway. It's just cheaper to get them from Mike. From what I have understood Heiden is a pretty upstanding guy right?

- BJ...i hear what you say...earlier i had dealt with the XS shop Kiel which is germanys branch of mikesxs...i found the owner rather unreasonable and do not deal there anymore, if i have to purchase from mikesxs yes i do so through jerry heiden who i like and have never had problems with as a person, however i have had so many problems with product quality control that i deliberately avoid dealing with any mikesxs franchise whenever i can to the extent that i make many of my parts or actively look for solutions that do not involve them...to date i have been quite successful, it has been a long time since any of my money has crossed their counter and i have 3 XSes
 
been to jerry a couple of times, nice guy, didn't try to sell me anything, (if the parts where still good he said so.) went to him for the rephase, and he recommended the 277 degree, coz it was chaeper for me and to 270 wouldn't make that much difference.
never heard bad thing about him, also not from the dutch xs650 club.
 
if i use a srewon oilfilter (like the one used in cars), do i stil need the paper stock filter, or will it be ok to run whitout it?
 
If you swap to a screw on sump filter, no you don't need a filter on the inside of the sump plate.
If you add on an external oil filter by tapping into the right side cover you can do away with the filter in the side cover. I still have the inside side cover filter. This way if your external oil filter plugs up you still have the inside filter.
If you just add an external filter, you should still keep the a sump filter in place.
Any way you modify the filter system it's best to have a filter before the pump and after the pump. The one before protects the pump, the one after protects the engine.
 
Hi there.
My XS -75 has not been in mine for a year yet, bought it from Flint TX. I have had som nice time on it though during summer, so my first oil change will be now during winter. I havent done any engine service since i owned a Honda CD50-77, it must have been in 1983!
I wonder when you use the spin-on sumpfilter instead of stock sumpfilter, do you also use the stock small paperfilter, or if it is better to use the larger filter with cooling fins on the cover? If i understand it right, a combination of the spin-on sumpfilter with bypass valve, and the larger filter with cooling fins would be great?
 
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Some one was asking about oil filters for the sump plate spin on conversion. I built one and use a filter that fits a garden tractor.

any instructions or write up with parts on how to do this? I haven't pulled my sump plate yet but if it is anything like the rest of the half a**ed shyte the PO has done or not done I am kinda afraid of what I am going to find (found two balls between clutch push rods and none in the push screw just to give you an idea)
 
I put some pics in an album "Sump filter mods" It shows the step I used To mod the sump plate to use a spin on filter.
 
Yes, that gets you there.
I was just rereading this thread. In the beginning the spin on sump filter mod was talking about using a Renault filter. It does appear to be shorter than the Garden tractor filter. I was wondering what Renault that filter fits?
 
Also you can look at this filter from MANN, thread M20 x 1,5 and height 50mm and with buildt-in bypass valve @ 1.3 bar. The filters name is MANN W75/3, and it goes to about 500 different car models.
Now all i need is where to buy the modded sump plate for this?

Anyone?

Stig
 
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Build your own. I did. See my "Sump filter mods" album. It shows how I did mine.
 
Is it just me, or is there something missing between picture 18 and the final product (picture 19)? I didn't see the adapter, at least.
 
You are correct. I did leave out the adapter. I can't recall the size, on one end it's 1/2 pipe thread. On the other is a 5/8's flare fitting. I just took a filter with me to Lowes and tried fittings untill I found one that fit the filter. The filter is 3/4x16 thread.
On the side of the bar stock where the adapter goes I threaded the hole to 1/2 pipe thread.
I found a four part pipe thread kit at Harbor Freight. I think I paid $14. It is plenty strong to thread aluminum. If you choose to use a metric threaded filter I don't know where you will find an adapter. Maybe one of the oil filter reloating kit makers might sell one.
I got some of the oil cooler parts from perma-cool.com. I just went they sell the 3/4 x 16 adapters.
 
Well, some nice work here. Very creative.

However, bypassing the filter due to high pressure, as on the stock screen and many of these innovations, is unhealthy. The stock bypass opens at 14psi. Some of the paper filters cartridges open as low as 6 or 7 psi. The oil pressure will always hit 14psi upon starting a cold engine and even when running hot, the pressure will still be 6 or 7 psi at 4,000 RPM. Adjusting the stock bypass pressure is an unknown procedure, so it's possible that your bypass "valve" opens at a lower pressure.

If there is an accumulation of junk in the filter, that will cause the bypass to open as well, so just when you really need the filter to protect the engine, the bypass opens to let the junk into the innards of the engine.

Also, when the bypass opens on a cold engine with thick oil in the crankcase, it actually increases the suction applied to the sump screen which is the main cause of holes in the sump screen.

I never liked the bypass arrangement on the stock engines, so I removed the by pass spring and ball and replaced the stud holding them in with another threaded stud with no hole in it.

Then I installed an oil pressure gage so I could manage the oil pressure when starting up in the cold and I would be able to see a blockage developing before it got to the critical stage. The gage also helps me determine when it is time to change the oil, because the pressure gets low compared to the pressure with fresh oil. The oil pressure gage also help me interpolate the engine temperature.

cockpit4.jpg


Just drill and tap the side cover for the filter, or drill and tap one of the oil galley holes in the front of the wet side cover.

gaugetap.jpg

where is the cup holder????:confused:
 
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