Riggs Performance Grind Re-Phased Camshafts

[mrriggs]

I now offer re-phased camshafts with a performance grind. The profile is basically the same as a Shell #1.

Price is only $200 when you exchange your stock cam, $265 to buy one outright.

I still offer re-phased stock cams as well, $100 exchange, $165 outright.

Prices do not include shipping which is a flat $10.50 in the USA. International shipping is usually about $45.

 

[Punkskalar]

That is a great deal! Keep up the good work man...

 

[Patches]

Very cool. I wish I would have known this before I sent my money to hoos racing for a Shell #1 cam. Oh well, Gary is a good guy anyway.

Have you guys considered doing a rephase for the 256 motors yet? Longer connecting rods, larger wrist pins, new big bore kits coming out for them.... they could be low end torque beasts. Just a thought, but please consider it!

 

[Punkskalar]

Very cool. I wish I would have known this before I sent my money to hoos racing for a Shell #1 cam. Oh well, Gary is a good guy anyway.

Have you guys considered doing a rephase for the 256 motors yet? Longer connecting rods, larger wrist pins, new big bore kits coming out for them.... they could be low end torque beasts. Just a thought, but please consider it!

I have a 256 here that I just finished rephasing... Just waiting on ignition and carbs to make sure, but there is nothing to say it won't work Stay tuned - but I don't want to detract from MrRiggs thread here

 

[shotgunjoe]

My apologies if this info is available elsewhere... I couldnt find it. I assume the #1 grind is fine with stock springs, but is it necessary to change to the lower profile valve stem seals that mikes sells?

 

[mrriggs]

The lift is just a hair under 0.400" once you account for lash. I just went out and measured a stock head and there was about 0.420" travel before the retainer hit the seal.

YMMV, when installing a different cam it is always a good idea to degree it, clay the pistons, check for coil bind and retainer clearance.

 

[mrriggs]

I just wanted to follow this up and say that my REGROUND cams MUST be degreed in. That means removing and resetting the sprocket to time them correctly. They are ground to maximize the base circle diameter. It is possible to grind them so that the sprocket will stay in time but that causes smaller base circles. As the base circles get smaller, the cam rides closer to the tips of the rockers which increases wear and throws off the geometry.

The sprockets on my re-phased STOCK cams are as close to stock as I can get them [assuming the crank sprocket is in the stock location on the right cranks half, with a new keyway cut in the left half of the crank]. Every one that I have degreed has been right on the money. I do still recommend that you degree them to be sure.

It's good practice to degree a cam any time you install it. Even if you are using all stock parts and just freshening up the gaskets. Gasket thickness and timing chain wear also effect camshaft timing so the only way you can be certain that it is in time is if you check it.

 

[racerdave]

mrrigs, do you only regrind rephased cams?

 

[gggGary]

mrrigs, do you only regrind rephased cams?

+1 reground stock cams
Are they hardened, what all does reground mean?
What RPM will the cam put the peak HP and or torque at?

 

[mrriggs]

+1 reground stock cams
Are they hardened, what all does reground mean?
What RPM will the cam put the peak HP and or torque at?

I don't have any stock firing order regrounds but if you send me your cam I can have it done for $100 plus shipping. The grinding is farmed out to a local cam grinder. He has been grinding cams longer than I have been alive and really knows his stuff.

The cams are not hardened. Reground means that instead of welding onto the cam and then grinding it, the new profile is ground into the material already on the cam. Since the new profile has more lift and duration than stock, the difference is taken out of the base circle.

The peak power will vary based on the rest of your setup. I have not run one yet but the Shell #1 is known for a strong mid-range. With free flowing carbs and exhaust it should pull nicely to 7-8k rpm.

 

[grizld1]

Guys, valve lift isn't the only factor influencing choice of springs. I had to find out the hard way that the fast ramps on the Shell #1 call for a bit more spring pressure than slow ramp stock camshafts. A spring that worked fine with your stocker and measures to spec can be just weak enough under the action of fast-ramp lobes to cause cupping of its valve.

gggGary, where the power peak falls is determined by where you time the camshaft. Moving the lobe centers a tad to the retard side will move the power peak toward higher rpm, and conversely. For street use you'd probably get best results setting the lobe centers straight up at 100*. For an explanation of lobe center calculation, go to www.muzzys.com/articles/lobe_centers.html . For timing variations that have been used by the pros under different competition conditions, follow the link at 650 Central to Craig Weeks' site and order a download of his performance tuning guide.

And thank you for your efforts, mrriggs!

 

[mrriggs]

grizld1, thanks for the heads up on the valve springs. I have no experience with this cam but had read from several sources (including the Minton mods) that it will work with stock valve springs. Which springs should I recommend to prospective buyers?

 

[grizld1]

Yeah, fresh stock springs will work for awhile, but they're marginal. The Minton article has some good information in it, but there's some questionable stuff there too. RD valve springs (part no. VSK 103-YL) are a very good choice.

 

[JR Hammer]

Hey riggs-- are you also re-phasing crankshafts to go with the cams?

 

[mrriggs]

Hey riggs-- are you also re-phasing crankshafts to go with the cams?

Nope, Punkskalar is your man for that.

 

[Okie]

I got one of mrriggs rephased performance cams, and altho I have not installed it yet, the quality, just like his PM adapter looks first rate. He's a great guy to deal with. Thanks again Brett.

 

[mrriggs]

SPECIAL HOLIDAY PRICING! I have two re-phased performance regrind cams available now for $150 each, no exchange, and free shipping (in the USA) if you buy direct from me. That is less than my cost but I need cash to buy the kids Christmas presents.

 

[Hopper]

mrriggs...you still have the re-phased performance cam available?

Dave

 

[mrriggs]

I do, but they are back to the standard price.

 

[RCGRT]

I just wanted to follow this up and say that my REGROUND cams MUST be degreed in. That means removing and resetting the sprocket to time them correctly. They are ground to maximize the base circle diameter. It is possible to grind them so that the sprocket will stay in time but that causes smaller base circles. As the base circles get smaller, the cam rides closer to the tips of the rockers which increases wear and throws off the geometry.

The sprockets on my re-phased STOCK cams are as close to stock as I can get them [assuming the crank sprocket is in the stock location on the right cranks half, with a new keyway cut in the left half of the crank]. Every one that I have degreed has been right on the money. I do still recommend that you degree them to be sure.

It's good practice to degree a cam any time you install it. Even if you are using all stock parts and just freshening up the gaskets. Gasket thickness and timing chain wear also effect camshaft timing so the only way you can be certain that it is in time is if you check it.

I'm just trying to learn a little bit here, but is there any where that I might find a procedure to degree a cam properly?