Yamaha XS650 Experimental Clutch

I have a Yamaha Virago in my garage, and I fixed up another for a buddy of mine. They have the slickest shifting trannies I've ever seen on bikes over 250cc, and easily the best clutch pull & finding neutral scenario. Those are wet clutches from the same folks who brought us the somewhat sticky 650 stuff. Go figure.
 
On a whim, the late model XS650 clutch plates are the same as used in 7 plate FJR1300 clutchs all years LOL
 
Hmm they changed the gear shape in what about 76? tranny has to be changed as a set can't recall the reason offhand. Not to dis your efforts but really I don't have any "out of the ordinary" issues shifting, finding neutral on any of my XS650s.

Yep, spline change in '77, polished shaft outers instead of shaft inners. Less binding friction for the sliders thataway.

Your input is actually significant, so no "dis" inferred. It's helpful, more of a confirmation of my suspicions. Numerous subtle/secret tranny changes up to '77.

Pretty much all multi plate wet clutch setups to this day will drag the pack at a stop. A quick slight release of the clutch lever, pull back in and tap the foot lever for neutral, done. That "tap" the lever may often be missed No matter how finessed, a steady press won't work as well rather a light tap up of the boot gets the lever to move that "just right" amount that stops in the neutral notch.

That's right, some degree of drag, even on the Honda clutches. But, their shifter mechanisms were more tolerant of that drag.

Kawasaki uses a neutral finder that blocks second gear when the bike is at 0 MPH so a solid stab up still stops at neutral. I like heel shifters, not least because I can tap down to find neutral. My BMW K bike with a single plate dry clutch had a very easy to find neutral even after 130K miles

There's an idea. If I had enuff room between the 2nd wheel and case, I could codger up a type of 'blocker' that would engage a finger on the shiftdrum, kinda like a sear block.

Summarizing my thoughts. The XS650 engine came from an advanced design (for its time in the '50s) Hosk. The Yamaha engineers inherited this new-to-them 4-stroke, and had to make it work.

The intro model had tranny features that were a bit unusual, compared to others, like Honda. And, these features went thru multiple changes up to 1977.

A few tranny/shifter/clutch unique items and changes that I can think of:
Intro 70 - Roller pins for shiftforks, not alongside the guidebar, narrow shiftfork guideholes, oiling holes in the guidebar, combo clutch frictions (plastic core and aluminum core).
1971- Separator o-rings added to clutch
1972- Deeper 1st gear (which would increase drag loading on 1st dogs), solid shiftdrum revised to multipart shiftdrum with bearing behind starwheel, which would reduce shiftdrum drag from stopper, neutral detent, and shifter claw.
1974- Clutch changed to 7-plate frictions, all aluminum core, separator o-rings dropped.
1976- Last year of the roller pins in the shiftforks.
1977- Spline changes, polished outer versus polished inner.

The tranny gears up to 1977 had anywhere from zero, to one, to two indicator notches. Some of those gears went thru as many as 5 revisions. Unknown stuff there. Trying to derive undercutting info from XSJohn's (rip) posts, I get the impression that undercutting of 1st and 2nd may have been discontinued on the later trannys, and that would reduce fork loading at gear disengagement.

Last rambling, from what I saw of the customer base back then, the abusive, go-fast, missed-shift crowd would've moved over to the next 'hot' bikes after the mid-70s, leaving the XS650 to the more mature, sedate, metro-riders. Which means fewer complaints and warranty work, stabilizing the model's tranny config.

All the above stuff leads me to think that Yamaha was doing a lot of behind-the-scenes tranny/shifter fixes on the early models to solve the shifting and well-known 'neutral finding' issues, as noted in some of the period publications. What I recall of the neutral-finding issues on this forum seem to be mostly on the pre-77 models.

My world here is strictly 256, the '71 XS1B. What I'm suspecting here is a trans/shifter mechanism that's barely tolerant of the shifting loads caused by clutch drag, and enters into 'bind' mode quickly. That shift disengagement measurement test I mentioned earlier would be a way to find the 'knee' in the curve, the transition from sliding parts to binding.

This 'binding' is the same principle used the sliding jaws on pipe clamps.

Sorry for being so terse, avoiding writing another book...
 
Last edited:
I have a Yamaha Virago in my garage, and I fixed up another for a buddy of mine. They have the slickest shifting trannies I've ever seen on bikes over 250cc, and easily the best clutch pull & finding neutral scenario. Those are wet clutches from the same folks who brought us the somewhat sticky 650 stuff. Go figure.

Now, there's some good info. Thanx, weaselbeak. Been studying the Virago shifter/trans layout today, and I see numerous subtle features that show it to much more tolerant of clutch drag.

Some are:
Shorter shifter arm, larger diameter starwheel. Better leverage.
Cam follower pins of the shiftforks directly adjacent to the guidebar hole (like Honda).
No need for rollers on those pins (more normal).
Longer shiftfork guidebar holes, as compared to the narrower XS650.

This helps to confirm my suspicions about premature binding...
 
On a whim, the late model XS650 clutch plates are the same as used in 7 plate FJR1300 clutchs all years LOL

And there we have it. Thanx, gggGary. We have the same clutches, same drag character. The early model shift mechanism is probably barely tolerant as compared to other bikes.

FYI, when I changed over to Barnett plates on my other '71 way back then, the dragging went way down, making shifting better.

In this particular experiment, I'm purposely using the typical 'sticky' cork composition plates...
 
Mine is a '78 and has always had the hard-to-find-neutral-hot problem. I had it with the original 7 plate clutch and it remained when I switched to the later 6 plate unit. I've improved it somewhat with worm gear mods, but alas, it still lingers. I've pretty much trained myself to select neutral while I'm still rolling, just before I come to a stop. It's easy like that. I do use Gary's slight quick release of the lever at stops and that does help. I wasn't aware of the "quick lever tap" technique. I'll have to try that.
 
Mine is a '78 and has always had the hard-to-find-neutral-hot problem..
You live in NY, so it-has-never-been-hot. Tighten your cable at the lever until that problem disappears. If you don't have free play at that point, loosen the actuator. Thanks for collecting and posting all the pics. They are very valuable.
 
Mine is a '78 and has always had the hard-to-find-neutral-hot problem. I had it with the original 7 plate clutch and it remained when I switched to the later 6 plate unit...

Now, that's significant. I was starting to believe that post-77 trannys wouldn't do that.

I'd like to approach this from 2 angles: clutch drag issues, trans/shifter tolerance of drag.

So, researching, and going cross-eyed. Came up with a "Transmission and Shifter parts evolution", that focuses only on parts involved in a 1st to Neutral shift, essentially pulling the 4th slider out of engagement with the 1st gear wheel:

*** 1972 XS2

1st gear ratio change, 13T mainshaft
306-17211-00 Gear, 32T, 1st wheel
256-17241-00 Gear, 4th slider, unchanged

306-18540-00 Shiftdrum, multipart with bearing
306-18546-00 Shiftcam 2, (starwheel cam)

*** 75-76?

256-17241-01 Gear, 4th slider, received 1 notch
306-17211-01 Gear, 32T, 1st wheel (misprint, should be -00, no change)

*** Mid-77 XS650D - The great spline change

256-17241-02 Gear, 4th slider, received 2nd notch
306-17211-00 Gear, 32T, 1st wheel (no change)

306-18540-01 Shiftdrum, multipart with bearing (change to its starwheel cam?)
306-18546-01 Shiftcam 2, (starwheel cam, unknown change)

90249-08122 Shiftcam follower pins, special, 1-piece

*******************************

The Shiftforks, Guidebar, Starwheel Stopper plate, Starwheel Stopper lever, all remain unchanged.

Not sure about the Shiftdrum
Later parts manuals do not show the -01 Shiftdrum, all show -00

The 75-76? change to the 4th slider (received 1 notch) is a mystery. Undercutting change???


5twins, are your tranny and shifter parts unmolested '78 stuff?
Any history of the bottom opened and messed with?
 
Last edited:
Cooked up a simple test of 1st-to-Neutral shifting load tolerance.
The idea is to apply some backward load on the rear wheel while the trans is in 1st, then see how difficult it is to shift outta 1st gear.

I bent up a clothes hanger wire to hook into the tire tread on one end, hang a weight on the other. I'm using a 1/2 gallon jug, holds up to 4lbs water.
PreloadTransTest01.jpg


With the bike on the centerstand, shift into 1st gear.
Then put some water in the jug and hang it off the back.
PreloadTransTest02.jpg


This will preload the trans in the 'thrust' direction, simulating clutch drag while stopped.
Now, try to shift out of first gear. Don't over-force it, stay within reasonable effort.

My results:
1 lb - Shifts OK
2 lbs - Starting to get difficult
4 lbs - That's it, fully jammed, don't want to force it for fear of bending/breaking something.

It would be very helpful if ya'll could do this and report your findings...
 
As far as I know, my bottom end and tranny has never been touched. But I think it needs to be. More and more I seem to catch neutral when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If only it would do that when I'm stopped, lol.

I'd like to assemble a 2nd engine to swap in out of all the spare parts I've accumulated over the last few years. I have no idea of the condition of the trannies on these parts motors so the one I build will have to be torn down completely and inspected. I've never been into the bottom parts of these before so I guess I'm about to learn some things. Hopefully that can be applied to diagnosing my original once it's pulled. I have several upside down stands now in anticipation of having to open a second to scrounge parts to fix the first. This will be interesting.
 
As far as I know, my bottom end and tranny has never been touched. But I think it needs to be...

Ok, just curious if there was ever any mix/match/frankentrans in there.

More and more I seem to catch neutral when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If only it would do that when I'm stopped, lol.

I knew I forgot something! Thanx for the nudge. Check your neutral detent spring length. My 'sperimentin' shows that 26mm is my sweet spot. I had stretched it to 27mm, but it added so much extra drag as to interfere with shifting.

I'd like to assemble a 2nd engine to swap in out of all the spare parts I've accumulated over the last few years. I have no idea of the condition of the trannies on these parts motors so the one I build will have to be torn down completely and inspected. I've never been into the bottom parts of these before so I guess I'm about to learn some things. Hopefully that can be applied to diagnosing my original once it's pulled. I have several upside down stands now in anticipation of having to open a second to scrounge parts to fix the first. This will be interesting.

Interesting, and hopefully enlightening. The dogs on your 4th slider could be revealing...
 
Been doing a lot of cold/hot, start/stop, upshift/downshift riding, trying to sense what's going on down there. The Experimental Clutch is demonstrating virtually no drag, I can easily roll the bike fore & aft while in gear with the clutch lever pulled. But, it's also demonstrating variously strange shifting personalities. When cold, finding neutral is sometimes easy, sometimes not. When hot, not so.

It's actually worse, and I'm convinced that it's caused by my other/simultaneous experiment in the starwheel area, NOT the clutchpack.

I've been researching tons of similar threads on this "finding neutral", and am finding that this happens to a random number of bikes. Everybody's running with all variations of clutch plates, oils, actuator adjustments. Yet, some report no problem, others have varying degrees of difficulty. The only common denominator I've found (outside of the usual mis-adjusted clutch) is that it's more prevalent when the engine is hot. That makes one think 'clutch', but I've eliminated (or significantly reduced) that factor.

Which leaves what?

So, my next plan is to return the clutch to normal, and goof around with the shifter do-dads.

Here's the next thread on those experiments.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/finding-neutral-while-stopped-and-in-gear.47568/
 
Last edited:
I was not able to find neutral while stopped when I was running the worn out cable clutch mechanism. After converting to a hydraulic setup I am able to find neutral while stopped. What's interesting is that it will become more difficult to find neutral as the motor oil ages. When I start to notice shifting issues I change the oil in the engine and all is right again.
 
What brand of oil and viscosity are using? i am using Heiden's hydraulic clutch on my 1980 XS650. Love the hydraulic clutch but i am having trouble finding neutral when hot.:)
 
I was not able to find neutral while stopped when I was running the worn out cable clutch mechanism. After converting to a hydraulic setup I am able to find neutral while stopped. What's interesting is that it will become more difficult to find neutral as the motor oil ages. When I start to notice shifting issues I change the oil in the engine and all is right again.

That's noteworthy. Are you running cork composition plates?

...So, my next plan is to return the clutch to normal, and goof around with the shifter do-dads.

Changing my mind here. I may not be able to reduce the shifter sensitivities sufficiently in the starwheel area. That'll take opening the bottom and continue with later/updated parts. So, for now, I'm thinking just cleanup that area with later model parts, ditch the sticky cork plates, put in Barnett plates, reinstall the plate-spreader gadgets.
 
That's noteworthy. Are you running cork composition plates?

I don't know what's in there, never had a reason to pull the right cover. This was a "junk" motor I dropped in while rebuilding my other motor. That was like five years ago, the rebuild was held-up when I misplaced my round tuit.
 
Back
Top