My engine rebuild from scratch!!

[Airwolfie]

Installing the engine on your own can be tricky, at best it's easier if you have at least another pair of hands to help out! Even better if they are familiar with building anything of sorts!(took me ages to "communicate" with the missus! Bless her! She did help!! Even though it took almost 20 mins to get the frame in the right place!!)

I decided to use the lie-down method. Lay the engine on its RIGHT side, preferably on a blanket or soft ground. I used our picnic blanket on the lawn, made for a nice soft place to rest!!

Now get your helping hand to maneuver the frame over the engine, taking care not to scratch the frame or the engine if it's been painted. (inevitably I did scratch BOTH!!)

I took most things off the frame to make it easier to lift, I'm sure you COULD do it with forks and swingarm installed, I just preferred it this way.

You will have to keep jiggeling and shifting the frame to get the bolts in, it takes a bit of headscratching, but I figured it out eventually, so it can't be that hard!! Just remember the frame is triangular so one side will be lower than the other, you alsodon't have to do ALL the bolts. I did the two front ones, and the bottom one, once upright, I added the top mounts which pulled everything in place. Then simply torque them to spec

 

[peanut]

its looking very pretty

Have you refurbed your carbs yet ?

 

[Airwolfie]

Next is the gear that drives the oil pump. this is on the right side sitting on the bike.

These are the bits you need in that order.

NOTE! The woodruf key is SQUARE!!!

I found it easier to install the gear first, then tap the key in its place

Big washer next

The little pin goes in next, not all the way, let the one side stick out a tad.

The smaller gear is next, note the slot goes over the pin.

Split washer and nut are the final two bits. Hand tighten only at this stage, you will torque it up later once the clutch is installed.

 

[Airwolfie]

its looking very pretty

Have you refurbed your carbs yet ?

Thanks Peanut! And no I haven't yet! Well I have ages ago, but I want to recheck my floats, I don't think they are at the right height!

 

[Airwolfie]

The shift selector needs to go in next.

Replace the seal on the other side, but don't add the c- clip just yet. You will have to be able to pull this in and out a few times!

As you can see, my shifter is a bit out.

Remove the selector enough to get to the adjuster. Bend the tabs away, undo the lock nut on the adjuster, replace the selector, and turn the screw either way until the ends are equidistance away from the star selector. Remove the selector again, and tighten up the lock nut, and bend the tabs up again to secure it.

It should now look like this.....

NOW you can add the c- clip on the other end!!

 

[Airwolfie]

On comes the clutch basket!! If you haven't done so yet, now is the time to soak your plates in oil for at least 24hrs!

These are the spacers and washers and bearings you need. I got the upgraded needle bearing for mine because it looks nice! Kidding aside, this is a good upgrade and I decided to do it while I was at it.

The first little washer goes in place.

The large one goes next.

Big ol' chunky spacer next.

No turning back now!! Clutch basket on!!(well you can turn back, you know..!)

Large washer next.

Then the needle bearing

Large washer with smaller hole is last

 

[I am Carbon]

Installing the engine on your own can be tricky, at best it's easier if you have at least another pair of hands to help out! Even better if they are familiar with building anything of sorts!(took me ages to "communicate" with the missus! Bless her! She did help!! Even though it took almost 20 mins to get the frame in the right place!!)

I decided to use the lie-down method. Lay the engine on its RIGHT side, preferably on a blanket or soft ground. I used our picnic blanket on the lawn, made for a nice soft place to rest!!

Now get your helping hand to maneuver the frame over the engine, taking care not to scratch the frame or the engine if it's been painted. (inevitably I did scratch BOTH!!)

I took most things off the frame to make it easier to lift, I'm sure you COULD do it with forks and swingarm installed, I just preferred it this way.

You will have to keep jiggeling and shifting the frame to get the bolts in, it takes a bit of headscratching, but I figured it out eventually, so it can't be that hard!! Just remember the frame is triangular so one side will be lower than the other, you alsodon't have to do ALL the bolts. I did the two front ones, and the bottom one, once upright, I added the top mounts which pulled everything in place. Then simply torque them to spec

That's cool that You had a picnic with Your engine Man

 

[I am Carbon]

If my engine looked that good I would go picnicing too!

She is looking good Man.
I was reading a good thread the other day.
I think it is called the leakless XS assembly.
It was talking about retorqing the head bolts a few times before first start up.
I wish I had on my first build.
Keep up the good work Airwolfie

 

[nozila]

What are you cleaning the mating surface with?

 

[Airwolfie]

Here are my plates soaking in oil, for about a week! I didn't get round to doing them when I wanted to! That's a good thing though, right?!

The seat plate is first. It has a little lip all around. It fits only one way.

There is a slightly larger plate with no teeth, this is next.

The steel plates are all the same thickness bar one. Find that one as it needs to go in first. Also lightly sand the surfaces of the metal plates with some 80 grit or 100 grit emery paper to give the clutch a bit more "bite"

Next is the clutch boss spring.

Then alternate, clutch plate,steel plate, etc until you reach the end which should be a clutch plate.

One more washer.....

Lock tab and nut next. Make sure the tab end hooks into the slot provided.

Get the front sprocket on. I got the 18 tooth to give me a bit lower RPM at higher speeds.

Get the lock tab and nut. Make sure the recess in the nut faces the sprocket!

I used the chain to lock the sprocket up so I can torque it to spec.

Now torque up the nut on the clutch basket, and bend the tabs over to hold the nut in place.

 

[Airwolfie]

What are you cleaning the mating surface with?

I use thinners, but any degreaser will work.

 

[I am Carbon]

Airwolfie,Hey Man.
On the 6th pic
What's the wire for?

 

[Airwolfie]

I chose to get the one piece push rod. Then add the ball bearing.

Then comes the mushroom shaped end

Locate the dot on the basket.

This is usually located on a tooth that is directly opposite one of the screw holes, there is only ONE that lines up with a tooth.

Locate the hole in the basket cover

This hole has to be over the dot

Add the springs and bolts, then torque up to spec.

I used a scotch brite rag to lock up the gears to torque the drive gear, works a treat!

 

[Airwolfie]

Airwolfie,Hey Man.
On the 6th pic
What's the wire for?

I'm not sure Carbon, I think it holds the first two plates in place, because they kept bouncing out until I put this in! It is in the exploded diagram of the 81

 

[I am Carbon]

So it's a clutch boss spring?
and it's left in place under the clutch disks?

 

[Airwolfie]

BIG credit goes out to Peanut for this simple how-to for the Kickstart!!

BEFORE installing the kickstart, check the fit of the outer casing, as the oil pump gear catches and you can't close the lid!! Trail fit it, if it doesn't go down, rotate the gear on the inside of the outer casing a tiny bit, and try again. Once you got the position right, install the kickstart.

One thing I would suggest, check how far in the shaft goes through the outer casing before attempting this! I didn't and thought it was too far out, so I redid it and ended up spending the next twenty minutes to get it right again!!!

Add the seal on the outer shell.

Make sure the two barrels are there

Clean mating surfaces, add the gasket, CAREFULLY press the shell over the kickstart, keeping pressure on the shaft so it won't move. push gently until it's all the way home.

Add the bolts. Note the different lengths. I trial fitted them before adding copper grease. Torque to spec, and your'e done!

Here it is with the kick start lever

 

[Airwolfie]

So it's a clutch boss spring?
and it's left in place under the clutch disks?

Errm........yes...............??? Well that is how I interpreted it, is that not right? Do I have to remove it?

 

[I am Carbon]

Errm........yes...............??? Well that is how I interpreted it, is that not right? Do I have to remove it?

Hell I don't know Airwolfie it just looks weird to me I've not gone in there yet. but i'm going in

 

[Airwolfie]

Hell I don't know Airwolfie it just looks weird to me I've not gone in there yet. but i'm going in

Feck I hope it's right!! I don't like redoing things!! I DID follow the exploded diagram!!

 

[I am Carbon]

The gold sets off that black.
Great combo!