My engine rebuild from scratch!!

[Airwolfie]

Thanks Carbon, how do I split the tensioner?

 

[I am Carbon]

Well if your tensioner is like mine the leftside base and rightside base is connected by a flared end sleeved connector. I would drill out or grind off one or both end flare then pry open the base and slide the chain in. You could replace the sleeved connector with a bolt and locknut and threadlocker. just slide on the sleeve.

 

[Airwolfie]

OK thanks Carbon, I'll look into that tomorrow!

 

[Airwolfie]

Oops wrong thread!!

 

[ANLAF]

Fellers, I didn't realise the chain tensioner was fixed permanently at its base. I'll look at that on my donor engine.

Airwolfie, sorry, I thought you meant cam chain shaft through the cam chain at the head.

Anlaf

 

[Airwolfie]

No worries Anlaf! I'l try to do what Carbon said as I don't have a chain cutter punch thingy!

 

[ANLAF]

Fellers, sorry, I see what Airwolfie meant - I just looked at the photo above - it's either split the chain of follow your instructions, Carbon. I've learnt something new.

Anlaf

 

[peanut]

Peanut, Did you have an endless cam chain? Did you separate it, or did you leave it as a whole?
I'm just wondering how one goes about installing the chain tensioner and the cam without splitting the chain, or is it inevitable??

I am not sure I am understanding your question airwolfie ???

If your chain is in one piece with the rear chain guide and fixing plate attached... then yes you can fix the plate without breaking the chain provided it is in the correct orientation prior to closing the cases

With the chain threaded through the rear camchain guide .I just screwed the fixing plate into the crankcase before fitting the jugs .

I hope that you checked the orientation of the chain and fixing plate before closing the cases or you'll have to split the camchain if the rear guide fixing plate is the wrong way round .

Alternatively you could just hacksaw through one side of the fixing plate , then twist the plate to extract the chain. Refit the chain then weld the plate where you cut it filing the side that mates with the case
Its hard work keeping track of your build mate across 2x forums and three theads lol ....I'm losing

 

[nozila]

Great write up this far.Im rebuilding my engine for the first time and have just removed the head cover. Keep up the good work.

 

[Airwolfie]

I am not sure I am understanding your question airwolfie ???

If your chain is in one piece with the rear chain guide and fixing plate attached... then yes you can fix the plate without breaking the chain provided it is in the correct orientation prior to closing the cases

With the chain threaded through the rear camchain guide .I just screwed the fixing plate into the crankcase before fitting the jugs .

I hope that you checked the orientation of the chain and fixing plate before closing the cases or you'll have to split the camchain if the rear guide fixing plate is the wrong way round .

Alternatively you could just hacksaw through one side of the fixing plate , then twist the plate to extract the chain. Refit the chain then weld the plate where you cut it filing the side that mates with the case
Its hard work keeping track of your build mate across 2x forums and three theads lol ....I'm losing

My chain and guide came separate. I will have to split the guide and refit it like what Carbon said. I haven't installed it yet, this will come later today I hope!

I did make a separate thread for the engine build, I will update than rather than in my build thread, otherwise I will have to keep updating four threads all the time!!

 

[peanut]

I don't know how you keep track of it all

Sorry ...it wasn't clear that you had bought a new rear chain guide and fixing plate assembly and a separate new linkless chain . So what you are saying is that because you don't want to split your chain you are going to have to cut the new guide assembly to fit your existing chain yes ?

Right ! gotcha

 

[Airwolfie]

I don't know how you keep track of it all

Sorry ...it wasn't clear that you had bought a new rear chain guide and fixing plate assembly and a separate new linkless chain . So what you are saying is that because you don't want to split your chain you are going to have to cut the new guide assembly to fit your existing chain yes ?

Right ! gotcha

LOL you got it now mate!!

 

[5twins]

Here's a link that may help. If you split the tensioner to get the chain in, just bolting it back in place will hold it together. No need to weld it or peen the cross pin back in .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/assembly1.html

 

[Airwolfie]

Thanks 5twins. Does that mean you can completely omit that cross bar? I ask because my problem now is the bolt I put in sticks out too far which prevents me from getting the sleeve all teh way down! I did think it would be short enough, but I guess I was wrong!

I'll either leave it out, or shorten the bolt.....

 

[Airwolfie]

Right, back to writing this out!

When everything is in place, you SHOULD see the lines on the bearings line up with the face of the top half. I have tried to show it with these pics, look hard, you will see the lines!

Next, I cleaned all the mating surfaces with some degreaser. I used some papertowels first WITHOUT degreaser, to wipe off any excess oil and crud until they don't have dirt smudges on them, then I used cotton buds WITH degreaser to degrease the surfaces. This is the result......

DON'T FORGET THE RUBBER PLUG ON THE BOTTOM END!! IT HAS TO BE THERE! BAD THINGS HAPPEN apparently IF IT ISN'T!!

Here it is installed........

Liquid gasket sealer is applied next after making sure the degreaser has evaporated, covering all mating surfaces. I also added a little around all the seals just to be sure they don't leak! Please use VERY LITTLE, as these surfaces are almost 100% fit, most of the gasket squeezes out, and that can be bad if it gets inside the engine. Don't put it all the way to the end, once torqued down, the sealant will be pushed out to the sides.

Make sure the barrels are in postion where they should be, lift the bottom half up and line it up to the bolts, and push it down. Mine needed a little tickle with my rubber mallet to get it to seat all the way down.

Getting there!!

 

[Airwolfie]

This took me some time to figure out. The six tall crown nuts have the copper washers under them, the other nuts are normal hex nuts with split washers under them .

These are the bolts that get the crown nuts

The two bottom front middle ones(those are copper washers, they just don't look like it!)

The two middle ones behind the sump trap

One by the starter motor recess

One behind the drive sprocket

Here they are installed. Blue locktite was used here.

Torque all the nuts down to spec and in the order they should be done. There SHOULD be numbers by the bolts, but if you engine is painted you might not see them. I only noticed this AFTER I torqued them up! I would still suggest using a manual for the sequence they need to be done up to. Do a little at a time, don't just torque them straight away. I finger tightened mine first, then wet over them twice before finishing them off.

 

[I am Carbon]

Good progress Wolfie.
I can't see the line but I know what line You are talking about.
good right up.

 

[I am Carbon]

Oh I C U posted more pix while I was posting
Why does Your clutch pushrod look so short?
My clutch pushrods extend out 50mm+/_

 

[peanut]

Why does Your clutch pushrod look so short?

thats very observant of you carbon

we'll have to call you hawkeye

Maybe airwolfie hasn't fitted his clutch yet ?

 

[I am Carbon]

oooops guess so
peanut I'm laughing so hard tears are flowing