My '77 and '81 seem to have no problem with a full 2.5 l.
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Engine Oil
- Thread starter Gpaws1968
- Start date
In ‘76 they changed things. My XS2’s are very prone to “dripping” between rides and leaving a film during. My ‘75 has one hose plugged and the other run to a hole in the side cover for oiling the chain. I was very happy that on my ‘76 the hoses are run to the Airboxes which eliminates any mess. That I believe was the reason for Yamaha’s recommendation for the earlier models. I don’t think that applied to your bikes Kevin.
Jus' throwing this out there.....
"Blackstone said it tested a variety of the oil's characteristics, from measuring additives to water content, flash point, viscosity, insolubles present, and the oil's ability to neutralize potentially harmful acids and bases. Even though the oil was made in September 2010 and had been sitting half-full for an unknown period, it tested just fine. That led to several follow-up tests of other old oils from varying sources to work out the circumstances that cause oil breakdown—and the answer was pretty clear.
Sampling oil from several engines, from a 2020 Ford F-150 with the 3.5-liter Ecoboost with six months on its fill to engines that'd held their fills for five-plus years, Blackstone consistently found low-mileage oils to be within spec. Tests were run not just on gas cars, such as a 1996 Lincoln Town Car that'd gone five years and an unknown number of miles since its last change, but also a diesel 2000 Ford F-350 with the 7.3-liter Powerstroke. There was even a test of 10-year-old oil from a 1995 Porsche 993 that'd done just 776 miles since its last change, and it too measured good."
https://www.thedrive.com/news/motor-oil-age-doesnt-matter-as-much-as-mileage-study
"Blackstone said it tested a variety of the oil's characteristics, from measuring additives to water content, flash point, viscosity, insolubles present, and the oil's ability to neutralize potentially harmful acids and bases. Even though the oil was made in September 2010 and had been sitting half-full for an unknown period, it tested just fine. That led to several follow-up tests of other old oils from varying sources to work out the circumstances that cause oil breakdown—and the answer was pretty clear.
Sampling oil from several engines, from a 2020 Ford F-150 with the 3.5-liter Ecoboost with six months on its fill to engines that'd held their fills for five-plus years, Blackstone consistently found low-mileage oils to be within spec. Tests were run not just on gas cars, such as a 1996 Lincoln Town Car that'd gone five years and an unknown number of miles since its last change, but also a diesel 2000 Ford F-350 with the 7.3-liter Powerstroke. There was even a test of 10-year-old oil from a 1995 Porsche 993 that'd done just 776 miles since its last change, and it too measured good."
https://www.thedrive.com/news/motor-oil-age-doesnt-matter-as-much-as-mileage-study
Rather than letting oil bottles sit in the funnel for a while to get "every last drop"
You might be better served pouring till the stream ends, then put the bottle aside.
Making a motor oil is a big industrial process, it's not always the cleanest thing in the world. a few times I've seen some dirt and particles left in the bottom of the plastic bottle when cutting them open to make parts trays.
To use that "bottom oil" I final drain my oil bottles into a squirt can for drill press, lathe, milling, and other misc lubrication.
You'll need to buy 3 quarts as 2 won't be enough. I dump in 2 then about 1/4 to 1/2 of the 3rd, depending how much it needs to fill the sight glass. I have the sight glass side covers on both of mine. My '83 came factory equipped with one and I retro-fitted one to my '78. I like them even though they may not be quite as accurate as the dip stick. I can tell with just a glance if the oil is getting low.
I normally buy my oil in the 5 quart jug. This gives me two oil changes. I also pick up a quart for top-ups. I mentioned trying the 15W-40 earlier. I got that in a 5 quart jug as well and so it won't go to waste, I'm using it up now for top-ups, lol.
I normally buy my oil in the 5 quart jug. This gives me two oil changes. I also pick up a quart for top-ups. I mentioned trying the 15W-40 earlier. I got that in a 5 quart jug as well and so it won't go to waste, I'm using it up now for top-ups, lol.
I am nor sure why 20w50 is the oil of choice. This engine is all roller bearings which like just fine film of oil. I pressure fed plain bearings viscosity is critical for film strength. What am I missing here?
It’s not just the bearings that are getting oiled. Gears, shafts, rollers, chains and bushings make up this engine as well.
Air cooled and old school, loose tolerance, manufacturing. Fat oil helps cushion the banging around.
The original 1970 spec was;
summer straight 40
winter 20W40
latest Toyota calls for 0W16
A back in the day Yamaha oil brochuere (not dated)
Oil manufacturing/tech has changed a bit over the last 40 years.
A Honda MC oil chart
https://bikerrated.com/bikes/running/honda-motorcycle-engine-oil-selector/
The only 20-50 the whole chart was for an old GB500 twin, hmm big, loose tolerance piston thing? mebby.
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The thicker oil helps quiet down the valvetrain.
Gpaws1968
XS650 Enthusiast
Gpaws1968
XS650 Enthusiast
The drain plug is so tight, I can't get it loose no matter how hard I try
Sometimes it helps to use a heat gun on them.
I think it is 27 mm or1 1/8. Use a 10 or 15 degree box wrench. If this is your first time, may as well drop the sump plate to inspect the strainer, You are this far into becoming a certified XS650 mechanic, don't stop now .
You'll often find the drain plugs really tight the first time you go to remove them because the P.O. never changed out their seal rings. Instead, he just made them super tight in hopes of sealing them up, which probably didn't work, lol. Have some new seal rings on hand because you're going to need them. I've often needed to use an impact gun to get the plug out the first time.
Leverage is your friend. And obviously a good, well-fitting socket. I use an old fork leg over the drive bar when I need to shift something really tight. But make sure the bike is steady or better still have somebody hold the bike.
REALLY like a 6 point 27mm impact socket, a breaker bar and a smack with a maul.
If you can't find a helper a stack of wood blocks will keep the socket on while you make the smack.
If you can't find a helper a stack of wood blocks will keep the socket on while you make the smack.
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Gpaws1968
XS650 Enthusiast
I did drop the sump plate and soaked the plug overnight with penetrating fluid and it still wont come loose
Gpaws1968
XS650 Enthusiast
I was scared to break it so I removed the whole sump plate, I never got the other pug out
I’v been able to break them loose after a heat cycle which is why I now use and suggested the heat gun. If you don’t have one a hairdryer can work.
