Yes if you have them in house CoilsSounds like a plan.
As i read it solid 12.7 V disconnected but still stumbling and losing power.
I would have a quick check inside the kill switch
Yes if you have them in house CoilsSounds like a plan.
I have both of my old ones, I believe they worked, I honestly can't remember if I fired it before I put the new coils on or not.Yes if you have them in house Coils
As i read it solid 12.7 V disconnected but still stumbling and losing power.
I would have a quick check inside the kill switch
Yes, just did the valves an cam chain a couple weeks ago, .003/.006 on the valves.An inline spark tester will quickly show misfiring. Have you set the the valves cam chain yet.
Got another 20 miles on, 40-60 mph. No issues other than my charging. I unplugged the voltage regulator and rectifier, terminals look pretty good. Idling @ 1200 I get 14.2, at 60 mph I have 13, if I pull in the clutch and let the engine slow down, the volts climb to 14.2 as the engine slows to idle. It’s not jumping around anymore, just goes down as rpms go up.
Current Charging situation:Please describe the charging problem
Not charging at idle is normal the 13 V looks right ..as long as it is 14 .2 ish at normal rev
How is it at 70 mph longer runs getting the heat up with the current setup
Will do, I'll try to get it in at lunch time. I may even stand a chance of being able to return the Emgos, Dennis Kirk is just down the road and they are pretty accommodating in person.13 V is still battery
70 mph/~4,000 rpms - 13.0 volts
And no Charging ( or excessvie consumption )
I would replace the other coil as well If in House and OK
I put in the other original coil, charging situation seems better but not completely gone. Driveability situation is still good! !0 miles or so at 60-70 mph sustained.Will do, I'll try to get it in at lunch time. I may even stand a chance of being able to return the Emgos, Dennis Kirk is just down the road and they are pretty accommodating in person.
Maybe a second run with the alternator disconnected se if fluctuatesDifficult to know
70 mph/~4,000 rpm - 13.1-13.3 intially, seemed to recover once at speed to 14.0-14.1, but adding throttle pulled it back down in the 13s
Still pulls down to 13.0-13.1 on acceleration
I read it as a wire or something moving position via inertia shorting out and then at steady state works as it should.
Can be anywhere on the machine and not specifically to the Ignition.
I would wait replacing alternator provided slip ring resistance is OK .
And inspect wiring at known problem places Headlamp rubber grommet and so on.
But At times replacing parts is one way forward.
Maybe a second run with the alternator disconnected se if fluctuates
If not the Alternator shift makes more sense
You still running the mechanical voltage regulator?You still running the mechanical voltage regulator?
I wouldn't change out a working points system "just because"
They are not quite as accurate as a crank drive electronic system but it's redundant (two completley separate igniton systems) and is stone reliable if the easy regular maintenance is done on schedule. The accuracy is plenty good enough for a street ridden XS650 motor.
I'll check my rotors (1981 and 1976) and report back for runout, ohms and cleanliness/smoothliness.Some aftermarket rotors had a wobble that could make the brushes skip.
Easy enough to do a visual check. of rotor runout.
Sometimes it was just varnish that got slopped in the taper, easy to remove.