1983 XS650 Project

I sprayed some starter spray into the carbs and the bike started for a second. Each time it would start, rev once or twice and stop running. It sounds great to hear it start but where do I go from here.
 
I had the carbs rebuilt by someone in florida but I guess the jets got clogged or something. I dread having to remove them and put them back on the bike but I will get to it. These carbs seem more complicated than then the cb550 I recently worked on.
 
Does anyone know of a video where I can watch someone install the carbs onto an xs650? I cannot remember how I got them on last time. They just don't want to go back into the space they came out of.
 
shade said:
Does anyone know of a video where I can watch someone install the carbs onto an xs650? I cannot remember how I got them on last time. They just don't want to go back into the space they came out of.
Click to expand...

Never mind, I removed the butterfly bracket on the carbs and got them back in place. Sorry, I will try not to ask every stupid little question...

That being said I cleaned all the jets on the carbs and the bike still only starts momentarily with starter spray.
 
I've gone over each of the jets with carb cleaner and used an guitar string to clean all the openings. I checked the floats and put the carbs back on the bike.
Still only starts momentarily with starter spray. I must be overlooking something?
 
Careful with that guitar string voodoo, unless you are using nylon strings! The steel core strings are harder than the brass jets, and will easily deform or open up the holes. This will screw up your jetting.

When you pull the carbs off, are the bowls full of fuel? If they aren't getting any, they won't turn it over to the cylinder.
 
Also, what jets are you running? You aren't even dealing with the needle or main jet yet, but an overrich pilot will just continue to flood the engine. Read the carb guide.
 
Firerunner said:
Also, what jets are you running? You aren't even dealing with the needle or main jet yet, but an overrich pilot will just continue to flood the engine. Read the carb guide.
Click to expand...

Not sure how to answer this question. The jets are standard or whatever came with this carburetor. Should I order new jets?
 
Being an 83 it probably has vacuum operated petcocks. Without the engine running they won't let fuel pass in the ON or RES positions. It only flows fuel in the PRI position.
You use the PRI position to start the bike then turn to On or RES, depending on the fuel level in the tank.
Try unhooking the fuel line to the carbs and try the petcock in all the positions.
Once you get fuel flowing out of the petcock hook it back to the carbs.
Now with the carbs on, fuel line hooked, petcock in the fuel flowing position, remove the drain plug on the float bowl.
This will tell you if fuel is getting to the float bowls. If fuel is getting to the float bowls, try starting.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
Being an 83 it probably has vacuum operated petcocks. Without the engine running they won't let fuel pass in the ON or RES positions. It only flows fuel in the PRI position.
You use the PRI position to start the bike then turn to On or RES, depending on the fuel level in the tank.
Try unhooking the fuel line to the carbs and try the petcock in all the positions.
Once you get fuel flowing out of the petcock hook it back to the carbs.
Now with the carbs on, fuel line hooked, petcock in the fuel flowing position, remove the drain plug on the float bowl.
This will tell you if fuel is getting to the float bowls. If fuel is getting to the float bowls, try starting.
Leo
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. I have a small funnel that I pour gas directly into the fuel line with. No gas tank, no petcock. I know that fuel is getting into the float bowls.
Thanks.
 
I checked the cam chain tensioner and it didn't need adjusting. I am checking the valves and I have noticed the left side intake valve rocker arm is a little loose. It has a little play in it. I am guessing this is bad?
 
Morning update. I set the valves, and checked the cam chain tension last night. Still only starts momentarily with starter spray. Could I be overlooking like a kill switch?
I noticed while working on the valves that when I turn the 17mm bolt to check the timing, the timing mark seems to always jump past the T mark a little bit.
I don't know if anyone is even looking at this thread anymore but any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Yes, the engine turns a bit past the TDC mark. One of the valves on the other cylinder is open and on it's way closed. The spring pressure of the closing valve pushes the cam around. This is why the engine won't stay at TDC. But as long as both of the valves on the cylinder you are adjusting are both closed you can adjust them just fine. It doesn't have to be exactly on TDC.
Leo
 
Most any good penetrating fluid can help. I like PB Blaster. A 50-50 mix of acetone/atf is a very good penetrating fluid.
Spray liberally around the valve stem and springs. Also spraying in the intake and exhaust ports so you can coat the valve stems from that side too.
Need to remove carbs and exhaust, turn engine so valves are open to get the lube up on the valve stems.
Leo
 
I sprayed everything down liberally.
I am noticing that when I get the timing marks lined up so that the piston is at top dead center, that the valve on the left side of the bike closest to the carbs is not open. I think this intake valve should be open at top dead center.
Would this mean the timing is off? How should I correct this?
Thanks
 

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