4th gear clip tightened, but now my clutch is slipping

2M......................its a good thing you are around to keep us straight on these lesser known facts. I admit, I mostly understand the 1978 year and newer models. 1970 to 1973 years to me, are sort of like my understanding of human biology.....................I vaguely have heard about it, but I have no clue as to how it works.
 
In an effort to learn from yesterdays failure, and taking your advice to look before I jump: Does anyone out there know where I can find the torque specs for the clutch center nut and the 6 spring bolts as well , My Haynes does not seem to bother with details such as alignment marks and torque specs, to the best of my attempt to find it there....
 
OK, thank you all, especially retired gentleman, who did point me to the right place, as you have done before
retiredgentleman said:
Did you index the clutch, as seen in this picture:
View attachment 95687
Click to expand...
So I did open the case again, aligned the mark, readjusted the clutch, and voila, all is well again in the clutch world!! I fired it up and took off on a test ride...I am in the Pacific NW, and that was an option- especially with my new Dual Sport rubber on. But alas, after a few stops and perfect starts, all of a sudden now the electric part of the starter system crapped out. Made a bridge over the solenoid, but just dimming neutral light results, no cranking. So I would guess, that my brushes are now calling for attention. And according to my reading,( before I jump) the starter removal requires yet another oil draining and side cover removal. Also I noticed that my tach is not registering anymore, and my charging indicator lights were erratic. Would any of these symptoms be related to worn brushes , or are they just coincidental and unrelated old age phenomena? So before I put in my order with XSDirect, I thought I would pose these question. Thank you all for this great community, I find it very enjoyable to connect with all of you, and hope that I can be of service to you as well. Cheers, J
 
How old is the battery, and what type/size is it? The battery is the first suspect with these symptoms. A fully charged battery should measure around 12.4 or 12.5 volts. Don't do anymore attempts to crank the engine until you have a fully charged battery.
 
Thank you RG, The battery is holding charge at 12.65V over night, and after I put it on trickle charger it will hold it at 12.7-12.8 for a day or so. I kick started the bike earlier today, after disconnecting the lead to the starter motor, and the erratic charging behaviour ( seen on my little colorful MikeXS charging monitor which I had bought in my pre-permanent magnet alternator days) seemed to NOT occur anymore: which leads me to deduct that the fault is in the starter motor itself. The Tach issue I resolved, it was simply a broken inner cable... The last time I had seen a similar symptoms with a starter, responding only with dimming ignition lights, was when my Toyota brushes were worn....which I managed to fix myself.
 
The only time any current goes to the starter itself is when you push the button, this trips the starter relay, solenoid to some folks, and sends current to starter. If you have enough current flow to starter to fluctuate your charge indicator it might be the starter relay. Perhaps there was a leak of some sort and there is some carbon traces from one contact to another.
Leo
 
Before you drain the oil and remove the starter motor, lets do a little test. I'm wondering why you are shorting across the
starter relay (solenoid)....................can you not just use the push button to operate the solenoid??

Connect your digital VOM to the 2 battery terminals, and select 20 volt scale. Push the start push button, or short across the solenoid terminals, and watch the VOM as you do this. If your battery is good, the voltage should not go below 10 volts. If you see the voltage get pulled down to 9 volts or less, the battery has just failed a load test and is worn out.
 
retiredgentleman said:
Before you drain the oil and remove the starter motor, lets do a little test. I'm wondering why you are shorting across the
starter relay (solenoid)....................can you not just use the push button to operate the solenoid??

Connect your digital VOM to the 2 battery terminals, and select 20 volt scale. Push the start push button, or short across the solenoid terminals, and watch the VOM as you do this. If your battery is good, the voltage should not go below 10 volts. If you see the voltage get pulled down to 9 volts or less, the battery has just failed a load test and is worn out.
Click to expand...
And as usual, you are right again. My wife is the only other person in my scene who nearly unfailingly always right. As a person living off grid, I should know that just reading voltages is not enough to determine the state of a battery. I had lent out my load tester, and it still is awol now. So anyways, before I saw your latest suggestion, I did the "switch to a known good battery test" . I took out the 650 battery and hooked directly up via booster cable to my Toyota. A voila, much brighter lights to start with, and she fired right up!!! Thank you again RT, I do owe you more than a beer by now. If you find yourself up the Sunshine Coast come and stay over for a night or two....And yay, I do not need to pull the starter and the right side clutch cover again..blessed relief. And thank you also 5twins for your stern advice not to be stupid and to rather look before leaping. Cheers all, J
 
Good to hear your starting problem is solved.:cheers:
Yes, battery voltage is an indicator, but a load test is the only true way to test a battery.
Very interesting that you live off the grid. I have never been up to Powell River, but I know its beautiful country up there. Its a fair distance from Calgary, but it would make for a great motorcycle trip..................thank you for the invitation.
 
Yes, we have a lovely long and winding road coming up from Van along the coast. Take me up on the invite....and thanks again.
And the micro hydro may not be high tech, but it is low tech, even better: No BS dealing with BC Hydro!
power 001.jpg
 
....you should try dealing with Ontario Hydro sometime, or its successor: OPG.
 
MaxPete said:
....you should try dealing with Ontario Hydro sometime, or its successor: OPG.
Click to expand...
Pete.......................I hear Ontarioionians are getting a 25% reduction in electricity prices. That should help those large electricity bills. I used to make the electrons for OPG customers at my last job down in Ontario. Since I retired, the cost of electrons seems to have got very expensive down your way. :shrug:
 
retiredgentleman said:
Pete.......................I hear Ontarioionians are getting a 25% reduction in electricity prices. That should help those large electricity bills. I used to make the electrons for OPG customers at my last job down in Ontario. Since I retired, the cost of electrons seems to have got very expensive down your way. :shrug:
Click to expand...
How does a person MAKE electrons? Are they not there already? Or do you mean that you just arranged them into pleasing constellations?
 
And as far as OPG and all other corporate entities goes, I prefer to render them largely irrelevant. They all, without fail , seem to have a nasty tendency to want to dominate the unsuspecting public, rather than serve them. A servant in the master's seat is an abomination to my current perspective
 
jurgenkoppen said:
How does a person MAKE electrons? Are they not there already? Or do you mean that you just arranged them into pleasing constellations?
Click to expand...
Yes its true the electrons are always there, but they are lazy and don't move much. In order to get any work out of them, the power companies have to generate a pressure differential between the alternator and the load (customers), which is called voltage.
So yes, I went to work each day and did my share to create that voltage differential.
 
Yeah.....it is pretty expensive down here right now RG but this 25% "reduction" is simply a way of shifting the burden to our children and grandchildren.

Thanks Dalton!

...and as for making these folks irrelevant...I'd have to grow a beard and stop eating meat wouldn't I? ;)
 

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