cam chain guide parts list.

[corwine123]

alright so i pulled my oil filter today, lots of rubber and aluminum shavings. I suppose that was the mystery sound. I'm just tryin to put together a list of everything i'll need.

1. Cam chain guide
2. gasket set. on the gasket sets it says it doesn't include some head washers or something. some one help me out there what do i need?

3. Will i need a new chain for sure, or should i just replace it anyway. I'm tryin to leave the rings seated.


let me know what else i need and any tips

 

[nj1639]

Shouldn't disturb too many gaskets, try not to lift the jugs. Get some Yamabond or similar for the top end. Not sure what condition the head gasket'll be in so have one of them handy. Used, stretched cam chain is good for the 8:1 compresion mod. Watch out when removing the oil supply line in the front of the engine....2 wrenches there, easy to twist the supply line using 1 wrench and not being carefull. Have your manual handy and locate all the head bolts to remove. Might be able to tip the engine forward to clear the carbs from the frame and then tilt it out to the side without removing the engine completly for the top end work. Might ding up some paint though.
Head washers? Might be the rubber ones, note the location of which bolts they come off of and make sure they go back to that location.
And that's just a sampling. It is an easy job, HA! really.

 

[XSLeo]

When changing the chain guide I like to put in a new chain, It will bring the valve and ignition timing back in spec. I like too swap the rubber head bolt washers with the brass ones, seal great and hold the torque better.
I have done it by just rocking the engine over in the frame. I think its easier to just pick the engine out.

 

[5twins]

Breaking the ring seal or seating is an old wives tale. That only happens if you hone the cylinders and install new rings. Then they need to seat in again.

The front guide needs to be mounted centered and straight in the cylinder. You can accurately center the top but not the bottom unless you remove the jugs.

So much work is involved getting into one of these top ends, it's foolish not to replace or fix anything that needs attention while in there. You should decarbonize the combustion chamber and piston (if you're re-using it), replace the valve guide seals, front cam chain guide, gaskets, and o-rings. The valves should be checked for leaks and lapped if any are found. Cam chain and rings may need to be replaced as well.

 

[anysnail]

i still haven't fixed my cam chain guide yet. it's nice to see such a detailed thread about it. one of these days i swear i'll have money.

 

[corwine123]

Soo i should just need the head gasket, not the whole gasket set, unless i break the base gasket seal?

I'm about do a compression test to see if the little chunks have been causin and trouble in the cylinder. I drove it about 25 miles home and it ran real strong, but better safe than sorry.

 

[5twins]

I prefer to get the complete gasket set. If you keep the bike for a while, you will eventually use just about everything in the kit and it's cheaper than buying the things individually. It contains the valve guide seals and the o-rings you'll need, also the gaskets for the points and advance housings.

 

[nj1639]

^
Right on there. Picked up a set three years ago and have used all but maybe a half dozen pieces and I'll git to them eventually.

 

[nj1639]

Watch them cam guides. Don't know if it was me or the manufacturer but I had 2, count them, one, two, that stripped on the bolt threads. Unfortunatly the expiration date had lapsed for a return. However, I do have helicoil kits.

 

[corwine123]

Woo! just check my compression 155 and 158. i was impressed. now to order a gasket kit, guide, and chain. If only I didn't have to wait till fall break to do all this work