Can't fit front wheel!

[David Toll]

As stupid as it may seem, I can't get the front wheel back into the forks. Rebuilt the steering and the forks, cleaned and bolted everything together. Cleaned up the front wheel, polished the speedo fitting, greased the internals but didn't touch the bearings. Put it all back together this afternoon and attempted to fit the front wheel in between the forks so that I could slide the axle in and bolt it up. It won't fit!! Took it out and checked that the spacer and speedo fitting were placed correctly and still no go. Took the bottom plate off the speedo side thinking that I could slide it up with the axle in place and then put the plate back on but it simply won't go back in. The width with the speedo/spacer set up in place appears to be about 3mm too wide to get in between the fork bottoms. Everything looks fine but I'm stumped. The speedo worm accepts the two tabs properly and, as I say, the internals of the hub have not been changed. Gave the forks the "roll test" when I had them out and they didn't appear bent. Should I loosen the forks in the triple trees before I refit the wheel? All the nuts and bolts there are done up to torque spec. I took the damn thing out of there so I know it fits but the wheel doesn't seem to understand that. Some pictures for your entertainment....
Suggestions that don't make me look like a total incompetent would be appreciated. Actually any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[David Toll]

OK, found my 3 mm. Looking the the photos I posted, it appeared that the gap between the forks is wider at the top of the lowers than it is at the bottom. Measured that distance and voila! It is narrower at the bottom by nearly 4mm. I will loosen the triple tree nuts and bolts and rotate the uppers 'til I can get the same measurement, (I hope). Ignore this thread and read something relevant!
Cheers

 

[Rasputin]

If you slacken the top and bottom yolks, then turn the tubes and the gap alters you may find you have a bent tube.
I learnt this on here, somewhere.

 

[David Toll]

I'm worried about that. They rolled ok over a table top (glass) but maybe I was being optimistic. Prefer not to pull them to pieces again so it would have to be a considerable bend. All these old bikes will have some sort of distortion in the fork tubes - they're what takes the weight and suffers the ruts. Anyway, I'll check it out.
Cheers

 

[gggGary]

I think I see the same thing in your pics.
Watch this video?
http://www.xs650.com/threads/front-end-spring-and-oil-swap.52933/page-2#post-562583
It shows how to see if you have a bend, and offers a kludge solution if there is a minor bend.
It's nearly 100% if the tubes are bent the lower triple also is tweaked a bit.
Odds of tweaked forks on 40 year old bikes is high.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the tube on the right in your 1st pic definitely looks tweaked out at the top, in at the bottom.

 

[David Toll]

Rotated the tubes and achieved the same gap top and bottom. If the tubes are seriously bent, I don't see how you could arrive at the same gap in this fashion. I assume some other factor is influencing the alignment. Anyway, same gap between the tubes under the bottom triple tree and measured just above the dust cap seal on the lower. Wheel set up slotted in and I tightened everything from the bottom up. Achieved what I consider to be a reasonable fall off at the steering stem - if nudged, the steering drops off about one to two inches. If pushed, the steering drops to the stops. Seems OK to me. Didn't torque the wheel on 5T's advice, (I think), something to do with the split pin hole not lining up at factory torque. I got it tight and fitted the pin. Wheel runs true and with the refurbished callipers on, it still shows no sign of "wobble". Refit rebuilt speedo and tacho. Hooked the speedo up to my drill in reverse and it showed up on the dial. The tach remains a mystery, of course.
Time to refit the steering. I am not happy with the "looseness" of the handlebar holder stem in the new rubber risers. I assume the risers squash and compress against the shaft of the Holder pin. I am tempted to drill out some copper tubing and sleeve the pin to make for a tighter fit but I might put it together first and see how it feels. I want firmness in the bars without undue transmission of vibration. Anyway, getting there.

 

[Mailman]

Looking good David! You’ll be rocking and rolling soon! I hope you’re doing well, I’ve been following all the fires in Australia. Really terrible.

 

[David Toll]

Yes, it's hot and dry here at the moment Bob but I live on the coast so, unless the barbie goes up I'm pretty safe. Having one this afternoon so I'll be extra careful. Haven't lost anymore toes though I did spend six months in a moon boot to correct some diabetic screw up. All good for now and life's too short to dwell on all that.
Bike is starting to come together. I did some figures the other day and I only have around $500.00 to spend to get everything I need in place to be complete - that includes new tyres and a voltage regulator and separate rectifier from Oregon. Still have to deal with the wiring. All of my masking tape labels have fallen off over the years so I will be tapping heads on the forum, yours amongst them. Another month or two and I will be trying to start her up for the first time. Funny how these old bikes take you over. I'm on summer vacation and I spend 60% of my time in the garage, "pottering", polishing and occasionally engaging in serious mechanical work. I surf, dive and enjoy my golf, (the moon boot improved my long game), but the '78 is coming together and I so love the way she looks. Can't wait to hear her run, even if she runs badly and needs a tune. Life is good my friend!
The Seasons Greetings to you and your family Bob. Indeed, Merry Xmas and a prosperous New Year to all my forum friends.
Kind regards