Can't get oil sump filter/plate off

mike1968

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hello I'm new to motorcycles and am changing the oil in my 1982 xs650 heritage special. I have changed filter and am getting a new sump filter from Mikesxs today. I drained the oil and it looked clean, but thought since I don't know if the PO had done regular maintenance that I would also change the sump filter also. I have undone the 6 bolts and with a little tapping the plate came loose. However, the kickstand mount is still in the way. I took the kickstand off, but the bracket is still limiting me dropping the plate. Any suggestions? I hate to force, considering I will have to put it back in.
 
You'll just have to wrestle it out of there as best you can. You may damage the side of the current filter a bit but they can be repaired with JB Weld. Chances are, it already needs that. It's common for them to tear. There's a bit of play in the filter mounting bolts. Push the filter all the way towards one side or the other before tightening the mounting bolts. I'm not sure which way works best but one will allow the filter assembly to drop out easier. I guess it's also possible your side stand mount is bent.
 
On a stubborn one I have put the drain plug back in place and carefully locked onto it with some vise grips to get a little leverage while I work on the sump body with a rubber mallet. I try to avoid putting anything between the smooth surfaces at all.
jefft
 
Thank you for your quick reply. I am hopeful UPS will be here shortly. I am anxious to get back on the road. This has been a fun experience learning how to work on the bike. I am thankful for the site, with all the helpful ideas and expertise.
 
Well. Filter came. Installed and added oil. Started right up and sounded good for about 3 minutes. Then sputtered and died. Tried to start and gas started coming out of left air filter. I had just cleaned the carbs last weekend. Any ideas? Shoot was looking forward to getting a ride in this weekend.
 
Well. Filter came. Installed and added oil. Started right up and sounded good for about 3 minutes. Then sputtered and died. Tried to start and gas started coming out of left air filter. I had just cleaned the carbs last weekend. Any ideas? Shoot was looking forward to getting a ride in this weekend.

check the fuel switch then the floats
 
Shoot was looking forward to getting a ride in this weekend.

There's nothing wrong with the petcock unless it's leaking from there

From the picture it looks like you have an '80s Special. The following applies to those. Probably what's going on is this - there's an o-ring around the float valve seat which gets loose over the decades and leaks. The stock oem seat and needle itself seems to hold up well. If you can pull the seat out easily with your fingers the o-ring is shot. I once got an o-ring that worked from a local hardware store. It was very tight on the seat but that stretched it to the right thickness. I think it's cycleorings.com that sells them too. Not sure what I'm using at the moment but somebody sent me two freebie viton o-rings for when I need the next ones. Also check the float level using a mm ruler. It's a critical measurement. Best probably to set it about 1/2mm lower (richer) than center of spec, with stock jets.

If MO is anything like KY lately it was probably going to rain anyway...
 
i second the o-ring around the float valve seat.
Whenever my carbs have leaked that o-ring around the float valve seat has been the problem.
I originally had leak problems with the o-ring in the kit from mikes. I solved it by shimming them with some teflon plumbing tape. This lasted 6 or so years, after a recent long ride i had leaking again. I found these o-rings had now deteriorated, one lost small pieces that were stuck to the side of the hole, they had lost integrity for sure.
I installed the ones I had ordered from cycleorings.com and its all good.

If you order them be aware only the small mix screw o-ring and the o-ring around the float valve seat fit my bs34 carbs but are still a great deal for 4 of each.
 
^It sounds like you ordered a kit I remember him having. I asked him just to send the o-rings in question and he did. A hair overpriced, but compared to what :D
 
Thank you everyone. Will check the carbs tomorrow. Looks like i have a couple of areas to look at. Taking motorcycle safety class this weekend anyway.
 
Hello everyone. Thanks for all of your ideas. The left float was stuck or wouldn't spring back. Cleaned the main jet also. Took float off and cleaned hole. Put back on and worked fine. Now seems to be out of sinc or timing issue. Back fires at times. Going to ride home tomorrow and see how things go. May look at getting it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. Just to make sure. Plus a new headlight or another electrical issue. Boy this is fun? Well, would like to ride it more.
 
It wouldn't be timing. You have an electronic ignition model. The timing is set at the factory and never changes or needs adjusting. You still need to do the other tune-up things though. That would include setting cam chain tension, valves, and carbs.
 
Short story:

My sump pump plate won't budge.

Long Story:

I have a '79 and broke two 3/8 drivers taking out drain plugs... (one was craftsman so sears replaced it on spot, so I bought a 1/2 driver too ,(craftsman too) and with an old swing set pole as a cheater bar and my 115 lb girlfriend, sitting on bike, I got them off.)

Plugs had magnets with some sludge.. not too bad. I then took out 6 bolts on sump plate but the plat wont budge. Any ideas? I don't want to try to wedge anything in seam as I don't want to mar the sealing edge. I'm thinking a hay hook (curved metal hook used to move bails for the non-country people out there.) and pulling down hard? My bike is in my back yard so a quick reply would be lovely. Thanks
 
Chunk of hardwood and a maul. I like to smack the front of the cover where it's flat. Then expect to spend about an hour with utility knife blades getting all the gasket off the case and cover. Do not use any sealer when reinstalling just some oil or grease on both sides of the gasket.
 
I put the drain plug back in snug and use the block of wood against that. You can come at it from all different angles if need be but from the front and back usually does the trick. The drain plugs were so tight because the last guy never changed the seal rings on them. They wear out and need replacing, usually every half dozen oil changes or so.
 
- - - broke two 3/8 drivers taking out drain plugs... one was craftsman so sears replaced it on spot, so I bought a 1/2 driver too ,(craftsman too) and with an old swing set pole as a cheater bar and my 115 lb girlfriend, sitting on bike, I got them off. - - - I then took out 6 bolts on sump plate but the plate wont budge. Any ideas? - - -

Hi summerman,
air impact wrench takes the drain plugs out, box-end stubby puts them back.
Use new seal rings or anneal the old ones so long as they look good.
Thread the drain plug back into the sump plate and whack it's head sideways
left, right, back, front, repeat, with a wooden punch and a club hammer.
 
Right after comming back from Sears and typing my question I went out and whacked it with a board and wrench.... Bingo she popped off. The sump filter had a 1 inch length pice of brass filter gone. found a black 1 1/2 inch piece of cam chain tension guide in it. The gasket was perfect. It was black. and inside looked very clean with mirror. Ordered filters, gaskets,, and soon will fill it back up. Maybe mod the filter.. Thanks.:thumbsup:
 
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