Could this make the bike run hot?

When I purchased the bike the compression was 120 per side. New head gasket installed. Im hoping not low compression.
Bike is running on both cylinders super happy. But now the bike is reving but not coming back down as it use too. It has BS34s on it and jetted to compensate for the small air filters and pipes with now baffles.
 
More progress. I'm guessing here, but perhaps now it's running on both cylinders, so the previous idle adjustment is now too high. So, see if it will adjust down with the throttle stop screw.

Might be good, once that's done, to re synchronize them too
 
More progress. I'm guessing here, but perhaps now it's running on both cylinders, so the previous idle adjustment is now too high. So, see if it will adjust down with the throttle stop screw.

Might be good, once that's done, to re synchronize them too
I borrowed my synchronizer to a friend and he never returned it. I will make one tomorrow. Super happy and very appreciative of all of the knowledge that was shared. I have over 300 hours in this build and a hundreth of that for road time. Thank you ALL!
 
More progress. I'm guessing here, but perhaps now it's running on both cylinders, so the previous idle adjustment is now too high. So, see if it will adjust down with the throttle stop screw.

Might be good, once that's done, to re synchronize them too
I dont think its from idle screw more hanging at a higher rpm than drops to idle
 
High idle causes:

  • throttle cable freeplay/ throttle plate (butterfly) mis adjusted
  • carburetors not in synch
  • ignition timing too advanced
  • air leak at intake
If it hangs and then falls to idle, it's often the synch adjustment
 
You commented "hoping" the compression was good after recent overhaul. Compressions tests are easy and fast. Most troubleshooting is eliminating maybes................
 
You commented "hoping" the compression was good after recent overhaul. Compressions tests are easy and fast. Most troubleshooting is eliminating maybes................
Took for a ride. Hanging idle and here are the plugs.
 

Attachments

  • 20230625_194213.jpg
    20230625_194213.jpg
    162.1 KB · Views: 34
  • 20230625_194208.jpg
    20230625_194208.jpg
    170.6 KB · Views: 38
If you're confident the ignition timing is correct and the compression is good, then some tuning on the carbs looks in order.
 
I need to retract last 3 posts the compression tester dont even read a lb. on a lawn mower engine. Might be junk.
Also after setting float height. When turn fuel back on i have to tap on carbs to get the fuel to stop running out of the carbs. I dont think I have the best carbs cheaper not cheap buy off of ebay.
 
Also after setting float height. When turn fuel back on i have to tap on carbs to get the fuel to stop running out of the carbs. I dont think I have the best carbs cheaper not cheap buy off of ebay.
I also have the jet kit from mikesxs in the carbs. I am running at this time the biggest main and idle jet they had in the kit. Odd though when I re measured the floats is when the carbs acted up when I ran them before and no adjustment to the floats they returned back to idle perfectly.
 
Also after setting float height. When turn fuel back on i have to tap on carbs to get the fuel to stop running out of the carbs. I dont think I have the best carbs cheaper not cheap buy off of ebay.
Sounds like a float/float valve issue in the carbs. Needs further investigation. New parts may be required.
Remove carbs, re-check everything clean and dry out. Bench sync then reinstall. Check idle screw.
 
Back
Top