Bucko
XS650 Enthusiast
Hello,does anybody know if there is any difference in the clutch pushrod oilseals over different years/models of xs650? I have a 73 bike and i,m struggling to find anybody in the UK that sells the seal for my bike,thanks
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Difference in clutch pushrod oilseals
- Thread starter Bucko
- Start date
still available from yamaha. Two different part numbers though, not sure what the difference is.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1973/TX650/CLUTCH/parts.html
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1973/TX650/CLUTCH/parts.html
I think the difference may have to do with the design of the rib on the O.D. of the seal. I think early ones were designed with a square profile rib and replacement was supposed to be done by splitting the cases. Way too much work for a seal that goes bad as often as these. On the later seal, the rib was beveled so the seal could be pushed in from the outside without splitting the cases. Needless to say, don't buy the old version, get the new one.
rusty rocket
XS650 Junkie
Check out the 650 central web site for a 101 on installing this seal. They suggest chamfering the case with a die grinder or dremmel tool so the outside rib of the seal will slide into the case without ripping. I just did this last week and it was a breeze to install.
Bucko
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks for the help/replies folks 
The old seal has a round bead type lip.
Mike's has a good description on how to replace the seal and the bushing behind it. If the bushing is worn it lets the rod move to much and cause the new seal to fail.
I use a #3 phillips head screw driver as a tool to help install the new seal. I slip a fender washer on the screwdriver, slip on the seal. Mow put the screwdriver into the hole the pushrod goes in, This helps hold the seal straight as you push it in. The washer hits the case to prevent pushing it too far.
A bit of Yamabond on the seal helps it slide in easier and helps seal it to the case.
Leo
Mike's has a good description on how to replace the seal and the bushing behind it. If the bushing is worn it lets the rod move to much and cause the new seal to fail.
I use a #3 phillips head screw driver as a tool to help install the new seal. I slip a fender washer on the screwdriver, slip on the seal. Mow put the screwdriver into the hole the pushrod goes in, This helps hold the seal straight as you push it in. The washer hits the case to prevent pushing it too far.
A bit of Yamabond on the seal helps it slide in easier and helps seal it to the case.
Leo
Bucko
XS650 Enthusiast
Thanks for the tip the bushing seems to be ok but i,m going to replace it just to be sure,il also buy a new pushrod as the old one has a deep groove worn into it were it sits in the seal!
the bushing seems to be ok but i,m going to replace it just to be sure,il also buy a new pushrod as the old one has a deep groove worn into it were it sits in the seal!AnthonyMartello
XS650 Member
Hello Members,
The clutch is a multi-plate one with alternating steel and friction plates. These friction plates are turned by the clutch housing. The tabs on the outside edge of each friction plate fit between the fingers on the clutch housing. The steel plates are spline on their inner edges. These splines engage the splines of the clutch hub in the center of the clutch. The hub is in turn spline to the transmission drive-shaft. The springs of the clutch spring plate press the steel and friction plates together to engage the clutch. The power of the engine is transferred from the primary opinion to the clutch housing, which turns the hub through the clutch plates. The hub turns the transmission. To disengage the clutch, a rod pushes through the center of the hollow drive-shaft and forces the clutch spring plate away from the clutch plates. The plates are separated by rippled circular springs that act on the spline teeth of the steel plates. Without them the clutch would drag when the lever was pulled, even though properly adjusted.
Best Regards,
Anthony Martello
xkglow.com
Posted via Mobile
The clutch is a multi-plate one with alternating steel and friction plates. These friction plates are turned by the clutch housing. The tabs on the outside edge of each friction plate fit between the fingers on the clutch housing. The steel plates are spline on their inner edges. These splines engage the splines of the clutch hub in the center of the clutch. The hub is in turn spline to the transmission drive-shaft. The springs of the clutch spring plate press the steel and friction plates together to engage the clutch. The power of the engine is transferred from the primary opinion to the clutch housing, which turns the hub through the clutch plates. The hub turns the transmission. To disengage the clutch, a rod pushes through the center of the hollow drive-shaft and forces the clutch spring plate away from the clutch plates. The plates are separated by rippled circular springs that act on the spline teeth of the steel plates. Without them the clutch would drag when the lever was pulled, even though properly adjusted.
Best Regards,
Anthony Martello
xkglow.com
Posted via Mobile
