HooliganCycles
XS650 Addict
just got this 1981 xs650 never had one before, to drain the oil is it the what looks like 1inch (dont know what that is in metric) bolt on the bottom of the motor....i noticed there is two of them
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draining the oil
- Thread starter HooliganCycles
- Start date
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- Tags
- engine
Tech7
XS650 Junkie
Yup, two of them. They will be very tight. Bigger than one inch if I remember correctly. Look for bits of cam guides.
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
27mm and there are two. Gotta pull them both.
Kent
Kent
HooliganCycles
XS650 Addict
ok sweet, thats what i assumed but just wanted to make sure, thanks guys
kvanderploeg
The Dutch Terror
The front one is in a cover that holds the lower oil filter. Most likely that is damaged as well. Will probably need to be replaced.
Kent
Kent
uknowme2goog
XS650,1980, Bobber
warm up the bike before u drain the oil...do u know about the oil filter?
You don't need to remove the rear one to drain the oil. If you let the front one drain, you'll find when you open the rear one, very little comes out. I say this because the rear one is usually stuck - and it's in the case, which you don't want to strip. Do take off the panel that the front one is on, to check the condition of the screens in the filter. Some are torn, so the filter needs to be fixed or replaced. I was lucky - a p.o. fixed my screen very nicely. Also, there's another advantage to just using the front; if you strip it, theoretically you can bolt on a new plate with good threads. Lots of other models of bikes run the risk of stripping the case when you change oil.
If you're a newb, be careful not to overtighten anything that goes into the case!
If you're a newb, be careful not to overtighten anything that goes into the case!
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They run a gamut from easy to jumping on an 18" breaker bar to loosen. Use a 27mm 6 point socket and even then I have had to clean up the hex with a file after a hard removal. If it's real bad, leaning the bike over on it's side improves your leverage. Haven't seen a stripped one yet. It's a big thread.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
The usual reason that the drain plugs are so tight is because the PO did not use crush gaskets and as a result he just torqued the plug until it quit dripping. Use crush gaskets when you replace the plug(s). Available at www.mikesxs.com
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
Do you have to use the crush gaskets EVERY time, or will they compress sufficiently a few times? I have a new set in my bike that were just installed last time, but I want to put in thinner oil today and have no more brand new crush gaskets.
TC
TC
If they get hard you anneal them with a torch to soften them up again.
pyroman
Pyroman
Great tip, I didnt know that!
You can do that with a solid washer but the ones sold by Mike are not the solid type. They're a hollow crush washer like a spark plug washer. You can reuse them several times but eventually they crush completely flat and need to be replaced. There are a couple red bakelite style ones included in the complete engine gasket sets. These you can reuse many, many times, almost indefinitely.
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
Okay, I'll reuse this time, but order more.
Thanks!
Thanks!
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
No, I don't mean copper washers. I mean crush gaskets.
Here is the description from MikesXS:
Copper Drain Plug Crush Gaskets - (1 Pk./2.) Each engine has 2 drain plugs.
Replaces OEM# 256-15353-00
These gaskets are hollow and filled with a sealing material that crushes when you tighten them to provide a leak proof fit without having to over tighten the drain plug.
Yeah whatever, the big enemy is not getting them away from the plug shoulder and cleaning out all the dirt that gets in there. But yes a new crush washer is the "best" method.
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
I wondered what that red gasket was for. thanx.
