Electrical problems, No headlight

[jackhenryfin]

It is raining now so I can’t check the lights, but I have never noticed that the lights get brighter, but I might be wrong, so I will check. I replaced the regulator because the bike would not rev at all when I got it, now it runs and drives amazing in my opinion. The regulator is a caltric regulator off of eBay.

 

[jpdevol]

I'm not sure what the regulator would have to do with the bike not revving to normal rpm.....but OK.

Is the rest of the electrical system all stock and which model of Caltric reg/rec did you get? Was it plug-n-play, Type A, on your XS650SG?

 

[gggGary]

Have you checked the alternator brushes? #1 first thing to look at on the charging system.
Is the electric starter working good? A pic or 3 of the bike?

 

[jackhenryfin]

It didn’t rev past 2k rpm until I changed that reg, it was just a plug and play unit, I plugged it in and mounted it where the old one went. Now it runs really good. All the rest of the electrical looks completely stock and un tampered with, I’m the 3rd owner of the bike and the first owner died in ownership so it sat, the next guy have it for like 2 months. Now I got my greasy hands on it. I haven’t looked at anything charging related because it was all working before I took it apart. The electric start works well, it cranks hard and without hesitation (when the battery is charged). I still like to kick it though.

 

[jackhenryfin]

These are the most recent photos, would take more but it’s pouring. It’s clean over all, all original until I did the paint ofc with only 7100 miles.

 

[jackhenryfin]

So what shall I put on my list to check next? Thank you guys for all the help, I have been at a dead stop for a week looking at things and trying to find someone with the same symptoms.

 

[jpdevol]

So what shall I put on my list to check next?

Here ya go....

 

[jackhenryfin]

How do these look?

 

[Jim]

How do these look?

Good.

 

[sleddog83]

So what shall I put on my list to check next? Thank you guys for all the help, I have been at a dead stop for a week looking at things and trying to find someone with the same symptoms.

I think you should confirm that your test equipment is OK before proceeding with anymore electrical checks. 19.7 v is a bit unreal. If you can find another meter, great. Try checking a known voltage source, like a 9 volt battery. Keep in mind, that the typical cell voltage at rest, would be a out 2.1 - 2.15 volts per cell. With a 6 cell motorcycle battery that would put it around 12.8, as Gary suggests. I am wondering if the top segments in the lcd display on your meter are acting up.

 

[5twins]

When you check the brushes, what you're checking is the length. They are considered a wear item and wear shorter over time. New length is about 14.5mm, the wear limit is about half that, 7mm. Once they wear too short, they don't make good contact with the rotor any more and charging drops off or quits completely.

 

[jackhenryfin]

So I now borrowed a multi meter from my neighbor, bike off, 12.26 volts, 11.96 with ignition on, then 11.10 idling, and the same at 3k. So I guess this means it’s not charging? The yellow wire coming from under the bike is about 1.5 volts, and at the headlight I have .01.

 

[jpdevol]

Yeah, you're not getting any charging at the battery. So, if you're also not getting any output on the yellow wire (should be ~ 5 volts AC current), it may not be closing the circuit that lights the headlight.

First step is diagnosing the charging system step by step (as in the PDF above). If ya have questions, holler

 

[jpdevol]

I just realized the Factory Manual (the PDF) doesn't describe how to test the Type A regulator and basically leaves its diagnosis to testing everything else (weenies).

So the Hilljack test:

With key on, there should be 12VDC at the brown brush wire;
there should be some continuity to ground on the green brush wire;
if the rotor Ohms good (5+ Ohms) it should produce magnetism

(other Hilljacks feel free to add jumpering green wire or other tricks)

 

[nj1639]

While your brushes are out and you have access to a known good multimeter, set the meter on ohms and probe the copper slip rings on the charging rotor, slipring to slipring should read 5 ohms.
(Hoping to clarify here)

 

[XSLeo]

Depending on the regulator the body needs a ground. Try hooking up a wire from one of the reg mount bolts so the wire touches the body of the reg, attach the other end to a good ground. Recheck your voltages. If your lucky you haven't fried your reg. I fried one of mine by not hooking it up right.
Up in the TECH section scroll down to electrical and find the charging system guide. It explains how to troubleshoot the charging system. 70 to 79 use one type, 80 up use another. The guide explains the differences.

 

[Shelby]

1981 special SH. So Iv been reading through other posts on this issue and I'm still coming up empty. The problem is iv got no headlight, no highbeam light and no backlight on the gauges. Charging system seems to be working. Now I think the yellow wire from the stator powers the headlight right? Right out of the stator I'm getting about 6 volts in DC is that right? Iv also got continuity. But I get no voltage at the headlight. Also wondering if this is a relay problem. I found a relay on ebay but the numbers on it are different, would it still work? Any help is greatly appreciated.

You may already know this, but the headlight won't come on unless the bike is running. I mention this only because I didn't know / remember (until someone here reminded me).

 

[650Skull]

On my 83SK the light would come on after turning it over with either, electric or kick start, if the engine didn't fire. I would turn the key off and on again to kill the light before trying to start it again so the battery wasn't trying to start the bike with the extra drain while the light was on.

 

[5twins]

Yes, all the models with the headlight safety relay do that. Get the motor spinning enough so the alternator puts out some voltage and that will trip the headlight relay, whether the bike is running or not. Silly system in my mind. That's why I eliminated it on both mine, lol.

 

[650Skull]

It didn't bother me. Just as simple to turn the key off and on. Also meant i wouldn't forget to turn the light witch off in the daytime. Because i did do some night riding i was happy to have the RLU just in case, it also let me know if the bulb blew when riding in the daylight by triggering the warning light.