Finally got a bike after a few setbacks. What oil, plugs, etc?

As someone.... Gary?... previously mentioned, BPR7ES plugs are still readily available here in the US. Non-resistor caps are also easy to get.... problem solved.
I picked up the non-resistor caps and resistor plugs last fall. Soon as it warms up I'll be switching to them, and never have to worry about finding the BP7ES plugs again. Seems the easier solution to me, but what do I know.... :shrug:
Some wanker like me will do anything to avoid change. Especially if it involves changing the plug caps.
 
Is that still a conventional copper plug and not a precious metal plug like platinum or iridium ?
I think it's conventional. They are 1$ or so more than the B8ES was.
I get them at a local independent bike shop. You do have to be careful they come in screw off cap and fixed cap.
 
Anti-seize on plug threads has been recommended for many years. I tried it a long time ago and didn't like the results. This is one of the hottest spots on the motor and it was drying out the anti-seize and gumming up the plug threads. So I just install them clean and dry now.
 
Standard fare is a 5kΩ cap and non-resistor plugs.
Another way to do it is non-resistor caps and 5kΩ plugs.
Electrically, both circuits are identical.
A small improvement in my mind... the resistors in the caps break down over time and use... same with the plug resistor.
Using the plug with the resistor gets the resistor swapped out at every plug change. That's not the case with the resistor caps that seldom get changed.
The non-resistor caps are NGK. Part # is LZFH
They're also readily available.
Are resistor plugs or caps necessary? Can you run without? Just curious.

As an aside, I love this forum. Everyday I get a new idea to spend more money. 😁
 
I'm hoping that eventually, NGK will re-introduce the new stock number BP7ES (2412) to the American market.

I guess most electronic ignitions like resistance in their circuit (plug or plug cap). Points ignitions don't need it. I ran the non-resistor LZFH caps on my '78 back when it still had points. They're very compact, smaller than the resistor caps .....

LZFH.jpg
 
I'm hoping that eventually, NGK will re-introduce the new stock number BP7ES (2412) to the American market.

I guess most electronic ignitions like resistance in their circuit (plug or plug cap). Points ignitions don't need it. I ran the non-resistor LZFH caps on my '78 back when it still had points. They're very compact, smaller than the resistor caps .....

View attachment 206943
The ‘79 has these old caps. I assume they are originals?

76068065-E0BD-471F-9FE1-011A85C3857E.jpeg
 
Well, maybe in Canada. In the States, we got a plastic cap very similar to an NGK .....

Cylinder Grounds.jpg


One of the first things I do on any old bike I get is change the plug caps, wires too if possible. The original Yamaha caps could and did go bad. Their resistance would start climbing and eventually it would start choking off the spark.
 
Anti-seize on plug threads has been recommended for many years. I tried it a long time ago and didn't like the results. This is one of the hottest spots on the motor and it was drying out the anti-seize and gumming up the plug threads. So I just install them clean and dry now.
I use it on exhaust studs too. ;)
Dunno I've been using it on my plugs forever also. Madness' plugs have been in and out at least 20 times, ZERO issues. I am using Permatex copper based anti-seize. Had the can so long I recently added some motor oil warmed it up and remixed. Good for another 10 years. ;^)
 
Well, maybe in Canada. In the States, we got a plastic cap very similar to an NGK .....

View attachment 206946

One of the first things I do on any old bike I get is change the plug caps, wires too if possible. The original Yamaha caps could and did go bad. Their resistance would start climbing and eventually it would start choking off the spark.
Ok caps yon order. I have a spare set of silicone wires that I’ll put on. For fun I’ll measure the resistance of wires on bike vs “newish” silicone wires.
 
I use it on exhaust studs too. ;)
Dunno I've been using it on my plugs forever also. Madness' plugs have been in and out at least 20 times, ZERO issues. I am using Permatex copper based anti-seize. Had the can so long I recently added some motor oil warmed it up and remixed. Good for another 10 years. ;^)
I've always used ant-seize on plugs, exhaust studs and such. Still have a tin of Ease-Off 990 from my airplane days. It'll likely outlive me.
 
I’ve always used it on spark plugs and haven’t had an issue yet. Last fall I bought another grade for SS. Regular anti seize is messy but the SS stuff is really nasty. Supposed to help avoid galling. Iirc it has a high nickel content?
 
Just a little tip on prepping the ends of the spark plug wires for plug cap install or inserting into the coil. To help insure good contact, I strip about 1/8" of insulation off the plug wire then fan the strands of wire out in a radial pattern like so .....

Plug Wire End.jpg


And to make for a more waterproof install, I apply dielectric grease like so .....

PlugCapGrease.jpg
 
Always use anti-seize SPARINGLY on spark plugs. You know like Brill Cream.
Goober it on, get some on the insulator or drive some down into the combustion chamber via the internal thread on the head and might was well throw your plugs in the garbage. Anti-seize is a metallic paste so it's a great CONDUCTOR.

Lots of smoke n mirrors about 2ndary circuit resistance.

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/radio-frequency-interference-article-msd-ignition
https://www.aviationpros.com/engine...s-some-basics-on-electromagnetic-interference
 

Howdy wmarsh4 - and welcome, from Canada's sunny southern coast near Harrow, Ontario!

Somebody somewhere on this forum knows the answer to every single question you could ask - but the key thing is...pictures (which may have been mentioned in earlier posts).

Ahhhh - I see that you have already posted some photos of your bike - well good then!

Now - a couple of guidelines/rules:

1) ALWAYS post lots of pictures (pictures are good - we like pictures).

2) ALWAYS state the year of your bike when asking a specific technical question.
There are subtle but very important differences among the 1970-1984 model XS650s - and nobody wants to give you a bum-steer by providing info that does not apply to your bike. Your bike is generally considered a somewhat early bike - but even within the "early" classification, there are very important differences from one year to the next.
For example, the earliest XS650s had a different number of teeth on the timing chain drive gears from those used on slightly later "early" bikes - and that difference will wreck your engine if you use an "earliest" camshaft with a slightly later crankshaft.

3) DO NOT use Philips screwdrivers on your bike. Everything on a Japanese bike that looks like a Philips screw - is not a Philips screw. It is a Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screw and a Philips screwdriver will chowder the head. Use a proper JIS screwdriver (easily found on Amazon for not much money - see attached photo - and Vessel or GoFastInnovations.com are both great brands of JIS drivers).
vessel_Repair_Kit_Revival_Cycles__33045.1533074634.jpg

4) Never ask about oil. Questions about oil are an open invitation to a dreaded "Oil Thread" - which will make most older forum members want to drive roofing nails into their eyes.
The only things you need to know about oil for your XS650 are:
i) the correct viscosity which is SAE 20W50 (unless you are in the Arctic in which case 10W40 might be OK);
ii) DO NOT ever use an oil that has an API label on the back of the can/bottle that says anything resembling: "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" (see example in the attached photo). Oils that carry that label have a special additive package to reduce friction and wear (which is generally good) but they will make your wet clutch slip (which is always bad).
iii) pay no attention to people who say that synthetic oils cannot be used in motorcycles (synthetics or "regular" oils are fine as long as rules i) and ii) are observed). In fact, no less a credible source than Harley-Davidson actually sells a synthetic oil for their motorcycles.

Anyhow - again, welcome and from the photos of your bike, it looks like you've got yourself a ball game!

Now - about oils - see the photo below - and do NOT use any oil that has that label on the bottle/can - regardless of the viscosity or anything else.
1644187128692.png


Pete
 

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