First bobber build - assistance please!

[Fallon02]

OK so I picked up a "project bike" that seemed to be like a good thing to pick up. I've ripped everything apart down to the frame and I've discovered some possible issues:

This is a dirtbike front wheel and a dirtbike hub is attached to it

Note the random 3 additional bolts - could anyone explain this to me? It's a Suzuki 16" 36 spoke wheel with a 130/90 tire on it... everything seemed to line up OK before I took it apart but is it even safe to put back on there? They are at an angle.. Should I take those bolts off to see if I can run it like that or replace the sproket?

This is what I am starting out with :

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ember]

Ditch the mickey mouse wheel and get a stock rear drum wheel. Doesn't look safe enough for me to trust.

 

[Ghetto]

2nd'd

 

[uebe]

A few questions.......What else do you have? I see a motor, frame and wheels.
What's your budget? Do you have an idea of style that you want? What things do you really "have to have", - for example, are spoked wheels important to you?
Once you have some answers, the guys on this board will be more than happy to give you their thoughts. Personally, I think the planning stage is a large part of the fun.

 

[Fallon02]

Well, honestly I'm looking for a cheap route. The forks I can tell weren't from a stock XS650 the tubes are a lot longer. What is the XS650 neck diameter, has me wondering if I even have an XS650 or not! Here is what I need to get this thing up:

- Wire Wheels 16" back 21" front
- Sproket and possibly chain (don't know what I have)
- Springer Fork
- TC Bro forward controls
- TC Bro linkage kit
- PAMCO Ignition
- Alternator conversion
- bike pedal or bear trap kickstart
- Sportster raw steel Tank and petcock
- Raw steel rear fender 5 3/4" - 6"
- New throttle cable and grips for both sides
- Clutch handle and cable
- New cheap ignition with key
- Not sure if I want a fake oil tank or not

 

[ember]

Not to be a spoil sport, but if this is your first bike, and if money is tight, you may be better off purchasing a running complete bike to start with. What you have listed is the main parts, but also take into consideration all the bearings, bungs, brakes, petcocks, exhaust, handle bars etc. etc. list goes on.
Lots of little things which will add up pretty fast to buy outright.

Make sure the frame is cleared in DMV system and swap the stock parts you will use to the rigid frame from the complete bike. A lot less headaches having the parts on hand than piecing it together.

 

[I am Carbon]

Hey Fallen there is no cheep way to go with these old machines. It takes alot of commitment,time,and doe.
But in the end it is worth every minute every cent and every drop of blood to ride arround on your thirty year old bike

 

[Dusty]

Cheap is not the same for everyone. The guy who makes 20 bucks an hour looks at cheap different than a guy who makes minimum wage. I would start roughing the bike together in a mock up form. Now you know what you have that the bike needs to be a bike. After that, start pulling off the junk that looks unsafe (rear wheel). Test fit what you have,and if it does not fit your frame then it's probably not XS. This all takes time,and you won't have a running bike in 2 weeks but you have to start somewhere. Roll up your sleeves,and get at it! By the way, welcome,and good luck.

 

[Fallon02]

Thanks for all the input - Ive only ripped it all apart and I've allotted myself a monthly alllowance to spend on the bike. I got it to bond and teach my sons about something other than video games. Yes, I have a frame and engine pretty much - with title. Honestly not sure if the engine runs but everything looks decent for now. I'd like to get my wheels and all items I will need to weld first, mock it up, weld it, paint it. Springer not important, just looks sharp if I can get an original fork I'll get that too. I'm handy with a wrench not intimidated by any of it at all. I like the wire/drum combo for wheels but they are looking more expensive than mags and calipers. That's what I mean by cheap, not going to compromise spending more money for something I want versus something that does the same thing and is cheaper. I grinded down some junk and welds yesterday on the frame. You should see the backyard job on this thing. I'll load more pics soon to show you.

 

[XSLeo]

That looks to be a 74 up XSframe. The lower engine mounts are on top of the frame, the 70-73 were drilled through the frame.
The numbers on the steering head will tell you. Up in the TECH section, scroll all the way down, click ID your bike, click on the link in the first post.
Scoll down the list until you see your frame number.
This list will tell you what year the engine is too, just use the number on the front of the engine by the front engine mount.
On your front wheel it will probaly work ok. The spokes look a bit rusty but they can be replaced.
On the rear wheel it might be ok but that sprocket is way to big. 48 teeth as I count, Stock is 34 with a 17 on the front.
I would replace the rear with a stock rear wheel. The early spoke wheels were 18 inch, in 78-80 I think it was the Special II's had a unflanged alloy rimmed 16 inch wheel, very hard to find.
The later spoked hubs had steel rim with 48 spokes, front had 64 spokes. Mike's has several spoke sets to lace different rims to stock hubs.
With a stock 36 spoke front hub you can lace a 21 inch rim with the right spoke set.
On the rear you can lace a 16 rim to the 36 spoke 18 wheel hub.
When you got the bike was the engine in the frame with all the mounts inplace? If not That's step one. If they welded the hard tail on with out the engine in place then the engine might not fit.
Once you find out if the engine fits, make sure the tail is welded on straight.
If it's straight, fix the junk welds carefully to keep it straight.
With out cutting off anything start the mock up. Engine, front end, wheels. Then you can see better what needs to be done.
On a stock XS650 fork it measures about 29 3/4 inches from the top of the upper tubes to axle center. The early forks used a 34 mm upper tube, later 35 mm.
The stem on the lower tree from where the bearing race seats to the top of the stem on the 74 up is 8 7/8 inch long. The earlier 70-73 is shorter, not exactly sure on that measurement.
Welcome to the forum and good luck on your build.

 

[Fallon02]

All thank you for all the help XSLeo, def gained some knowledge. The rear wheel is a Suzuki 16" that, correct me if I'm wrong, has a 13mm axle? Any ideas? Looks like a 80ish GS550 wheel. Just isn't what I read an xs650 has... As this journey continues I think I was ripped off on this project bike, but it will def be a project just trying to figure it out.... and the neck... is this an xs650 neck at least?

 

[XSLeo]

In your first pic, is that the GS550 wheel? If thats a rear wheel you might be able to use it by useing different bearings and spacer between the bearings. It looks to be 17 or 18 mm. Try useing the inside measuring part of your caliper.
You might find a bearing with the same OD as the one in the wheel and an ID that matches the 650 axle.
The second pic looks to be 17 mm too
In your third pic, if you are measuring the bottom bearing race then it's the right size to be an XS650
The stem at the bottom is 30 mm, the top 25 mm.
Looking at your frame pic in post #1, That sure looks like an XS650 frame. The way the engine mount holes in the frame are gives it away, no other bikes look like that.
As far as ripped off, maybe, maybe not. Does the frame have Numbers stamped in the neck? Do these numbers match the title? Do the engine numbers match the frame Numbers? This last part doesn't really matter, engines get swapped around all the time. Just nice to know what year the engine is. Easier to get the right parts.
As I said earlier the frame and engine numbers can be used to find the year they came from. Check them against the lists I talked about.
I just went out and measured the 82 frame I have, about 7 1/2 inches from top to bottom. All the 74 up frames measure the same there.
If the engine fits in the frame then it's an XS650 frame.
Do you have pics of the bike before the tear down?
Pics of everything you have, will help.
Leo

 

[angus67]

that is a 650 neck. but for some reason to me, it looks raked. it has the small triangle shape gusset on the front lower, but the down tubes look longer to me. Might be lookin like that cuz the forks/wheel isnt on there, but you say the forks are alot longer than stock? maybe raked, then. put the forks on, and the front wheel, and post that pic, and get a closer pic of the head stock

 

[Fallon02]

Yes it's raked. The fork is about a foot longer than stock xs650, one has a leak but they are 35mm. That GS series wheel is the only suzuki wheel i've found to match what I have. I did confirm 17mm axle I think it's a stepped axle. So OK I'm starting off with a rigid, raked frame, an engine I've never heard run, a mixture of parts... good thing is I saw a front xs650 wire wheel sell for 300 on Ebay the other day, this GS??? wheel is really cheap to replace I've seen them for 25-75 buy it now. it has a good harley 130/90 tire on it already. Frame looked straight, I might have to figure out something to stablize those long fork tubes...they were moving a lot but maybe it was the neck because all those bearings just fell out onto the ground when I was disassembling it.

I'm on track to pick up some other parts soon I'll let you know, and will be posting what I don't use/need up for sale.

 

[XSLeo]

Adding the hardtail changes the rake a degree or two. Even without "raking" the neck, so it will look raked.
The stock bearings, as you saw, are just loose ball bearings. When they wear they get pockets in the races where the balls set and the fork movement feels notchy. Most replace the stock bearings with a tapered roller bearings. These sets can be found many places, Mike's, TC Bros, Ebay. A very good upgrade.
A tweek bar is used to help the fork flexing. Kinda like an extra tripple clamp that gets mounted between the lower tripple tree and the fork lowers. You see them on lots of long forks on choppers.
Leo

 

[Fallon02]

It's def a Suzuki GS550 wheel (64MM hole). I contacted a custom sprocket guy that is going to make me a 34T for a 530 chain to fit the wheel. Thanks for the input on the tweek bar XSLeo. I would like to keep the longer forks I think. I think I am going to go to a springer to make it easier on myself with a +10 or so and get a HD style wheel for the front. I'm thinking of starting from the back and just working my way forward on the build of the frame/tank/accessories, that way I can finish it all up then mount a new fork, then start working on the engine goodies and getting her up and running.

 

[1987notchback]

hey where are you located i have an extra rear wheel, you can have it. mike