First time Wheel Lacing Question

gregoryp

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I was hoping someone could point out my mistake. I did the rear wheel using the Fong Bros. thread with no problem. I used the same technique on my front wheel, except it has 64 spokes. I inserted the top spokes first, then found the 6:28 location and inserted the bottom spokes starting there. Should I have started two holes over instead at 6:26? As far as I can tell the pattern is correct, but my outer spokes seem to be to short and my inner ones seem to be to long. Each inner and outer have two lengths, so I put the shorter one on the inside of the angle made with the hub and the longer one to the outside of the angle with the hub, if that makes sense. So if you are looking at the wheel and the spokes are going in the CW direction the short one is to the right and the long one is to the left. I've attached some pictures of the before and after any ideas?
 

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wish i could help. took me three hours on my first wheel. and I had no help. just a rusty thrashed wheel for reference.
its just one of those things that you gotta figure out your self. keep at it, though. great pride will come your way, especially if you true it yourself.
 
It look's like you are one hole off on each, the angle of the spoke from the hub to the wheel is different than on the old hub/wheel. Also, I all way's had to trim off the XS spoke through the wheel so not to puncture the tube, used a Dremmell to trim/flatten.
 
Thanks, got it, just had to shift the starting point a few holes, took several tries. Now it is on to trueing. This part may take a while. I ordered the video from Buchannans, we'll see how imformative it is.
 

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I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base for the side to side but just a pointer on the up/down run-out .....

RunoutandTrue.jpg


You can get the side to side very close, within .010" usually, without too much trouble. That's very good considering the factory spec is 2mm (about .080").
 
Thanks for the picture. I bought a truening stand from harbour freight, seems pretty decent and I have a magnetic dial indicator to create the setup you have pictured. I was following the Fong Bros. tutorial and started off threading each nipple on two turns and then going six turns on each one and kept working my way around. Now I'm at the point where some are getting tight, but others are pretty loose. At this point do I just leave the tight ones and continue to tighten the others until they are all snug, while keeping an eye on the runout of the wheel. Then once they are all snug how much tighter do you go with them? Having never done this before I don't have a feel for how tight they should be.
Thanks,
Greg
 
Yes, go around and snug the rest up. I use a screwdriver on the bottom of the nipples for as long as possible, then switch to the spoke wrench. You're going to need a good spoke wrench. I recommend this one from a company called Rowe. It fits multiple spoke sizes and only cost about $6 or $7. I've yet to encounter a spoke it won't fit .....

RoweSpokeWrench.jpg


The name will be stamped on it if it's genuine. There are Chinese knock-offs out there now for the same price. They will be blank with no name stamped on them. I wouldn't get one of those.

After snugging, I set the up/down run-out 1st using the screwdriver and a pointer, then go to the side to side "true". This is when you'll need to start using the wrench. I've found the bottom edge or inside surface of the rim where the tire mounts to be too rough for the dial gauge, it jumps all around too much. That's why I just use a pointer for that part.

I tighten the spokes basically just like a small bolt. You want them tight but not too tight. You'll get a feel for it when you use the wrench. You can check them by tapping with the plastic handle of a small screwdriver. They should have a ring to them, higher pitched the tighter they are. A dull thud indicates a loose one.

Some say to adjust all the spokes to the same pitch but you usually can't do that, the wheel won't be true. Just as long as they all ring, you should be good.
 
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