First Top End Build

dillon0990

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I was able to get all gasket surfaces clean. I used a blade with lacquer thinner to get the gasket pieced off. I thin used a green scotch bright pad with lacquer thinner to remove all residue. The scotch bright pad worked wonderful and left the surface clean without scratches. Highly recommend trying I if ever looking to remove gasket residue.

I will be getting my valve spring compressor in the mail today. I will pull the valves and clean the heads and valves, replace the valve seals, and take a stab at lapping the valves (it seems fairly easy).

Rings and cam chain should arrive Wednesday. I followed some threads recommended above by using rubber bands to hold the connecting rods straight and at TDC. WOW, great idea. Worked awesome and kept connecting rods out of my way while cleaning base gasket surface. More to come!
 

dillon0990

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I pulled my valves today. The seats actually look really good on both the valves and head. I will go ahead and lap the valves while out. The seals did look pretty bad, so thanks for the advice to replace!

Any idea on cleaning the valves? Is a wire wheel in a drill acceptable. I don't want to hurt the seats. I have also read putting the valve in a drill and using scotch bright pads. Im all out so I might go get some and try that.

is a wire wheel ok in the combustion chamber too?? how about best way to get into both exhaust and intake ports. OR is it even necessary to remove the old carbon build up?
 

5twins

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For carbon removal, I use paint stripper. It literally melts the carbon away. It may take 2 or 3 applications to get it all, but it works nice. Very little aggressive scraping is required. A little late for you now, but it's excellent for removing old gaskets too. The valves are hardened steel so you can just wire wheel them clean without hurting them. You can try the paint stripper 1st, but the carbon on the valves is pretty baked on, especially on the exhaust valve, so it may not have much effect.

Once the combustion chambers are mostly clean, I'll use the little wire wheel in a Dremel to get any little spots left. Then I use chrome cleaner on it and it comes out looking like new.
 

dillon0990

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Would the permatex valve grinding compound be all I need for lapping valves. since I am only doing 4 valves I was going to buy the manual suction cup style below. I will also pickup some paint remover for the carbon.
Snap1.jpg Snap2.jpg
 

5twins

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You should be fine with that stuff. I've lapped lots of valves and all I ever used were the suction cup sticks. It's the proper tool for the job. Personally, I use 2 compounds, coarse and fine. Start with the coarse to remove all the pits, then a quick going over with the fine for the final finish. The lapping compound I just happened to buy many years ago was a duplex can and contained both .....

VZ9gIbg.jpg


Hard to find like this today, but it's still out there if you search .....

http://www.doughboystools.com/lapping-compound-fine-coarse-14146/
 

dillon0990

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I got my piston rings and cam chain yesterday.

I ordered both from mikes. Luckily I don't think I have a ton to file down on the rings. I did by .25 bigger to file to fit. I need to pickup a file.

The chain I ordered from mikes looked like it came disconnected and you would need to rivet it. That is what is says in the description and what the picture shows, but it cam already connected. luckily I bought a master link. I guess I need to cut the chain and rivet again. I will be picking up lapping compound and tool when I get my file.
When is best time to cut old cam chain and install new? before or after putting jugs on?
 

dillon0990

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Just put my new valve seals on and put valves in. first test showed both intake valves had slight leak through using lacquer thinner after sitting for a minute. I got one to stop after lapping again. Lapped the other a second time and still a small leak through. I will attempt again and hope all goes well tomorrow.

Is it normal to take a couple tries to get them to seal? First time doing it in my life too.
 

joebgd

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I've never done it but from being in this forum, I think you can install an endless cam chain, something about you might have to mess with the rear guide, opening the rear guide mount then recloosing it. Ask again on here before you cut the new cam chain.
 

dillon0990

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Old stretched out cam chains can be removed/reinstalled, but new chains, no.
Not sure what you mean? I got ahold of Mikes and they said that I got the correct chain, but they no longer come already disconnected. I have a new master link for the chain that I ordered at the same time. They said I should be able to brake the chain and rivet back together.
 

dillon0990

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I got all the valves seated properly. No leakage even using the air method 5twins recommended. I got my first set of rings filed and installed on the piston. One more set to go.
My end gap for top and bottom rings were 0.009-0.010. The oil rings were 0.013-0.014. That is within spec correct? I don't want my end gap too small.
 

5twins

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Those gaps are fine. Minimum spec for the top two is .008", for the oil rails it's .012".
 

dillon0990

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U are filing them in the inward direction yes?
Yes sir!

Rings are done and the pistons are in the jugs. Ready to install the front cam chain guide.

Here soon everything will start going back together.

Question: I took out the old o-rings around the cylinders and put the new on. Are they supposed to be pushed into the groove? They don't seem to want to fit all the way down in and stay there. Do you force them into the groove?
 
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dillon0990

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Any thoughts on the o-ring? I think I will not force it into the groove and just ensure it is situated in the correct spot unless someone says otherwise.
 

angus67

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U have build up in the ring lands. Break a old ring in half and dig it out. Don't be too aggressive though.
 

Jim

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Just fit the o-ring loosely in place, It will seat itself when you set the cylinder on the cases.
 
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