I got forked. Thinking about putting a TX750 front end on my XS2. LONG!!

CalsXS2

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I'm trying to get my 72 XS2 put back together. It's only been apart about 3 year's now. :shrug:

I'm at the point of putting the forks on to make it a roller. My original fork tube's are badly pitted. So I bought a nos one from a dealer about a year ago and was waiting for another to show up. I finally snagged what was supposed to be a 73 TX650 complete used fork off of ebay, which should have worked. But it was not what it was supposed to be.

So currently I lost my job and I have all kinds of time on my hands to get something done one this bike. Problem is though, I'm flat broke. So this is a money issue.


There's a ton of guy's on the forum wanting 72 fork tube's. And it's really hard to get a used set that any better than what I have. Gary says Franks forks are $300. That aint happienin.

That brings me to my next option. I have a complete 73 TX750 front end that I could put on for veirtually no cash. Just a lot of work. Or use just the forks on my 72 set up.

Remember. This is a 36mm tube as apposed to the 72's 34mm. It's just a lot beefier deal all the way around.

So I have a couple of different option's.

1. I can have my buddy who works at a machine shop enlarge the holes in the 72's triple tree clamps. The top one will be fine. But it is going to make the bottom clamp, which is the only clamping area, paper thin. I'm concerned it will break. My buddy says if it is steel, not cast iron, he can either weld on a new tube holder on, or reenforce the original. With this method I keep steering dampener knob intact. Everything will look original.

2. With some work, no money, :thumbsup: I can put the complete TX750 front end on there. The pics below show what I will have to do. First. If I use the TX lower triple it will fit. But I either have to run the threads on down and cut off about 1/2'' of the tube to make it look right. Problem with that is finding a die to do that. I can't figure out what thread it is. Anyone know. Or better yet have a die. Or I could leave it long and put some kind of spacer on there. Problem with that is the spacer would have to go under the nut that thightens the triple tree top piece down. It might look hoky.

Then I would have to graft my gauge mount onto the 73 top clamp. It can be done I think.

The biggest problem with doing this method is I will loose the 72's steering damper knob, and the handle bar risers with the rubber mounts. But I think everyone complained about those anyway. I will also have to run the 73 head light and blinkers. Which will change the whole original looking bike. But I actually think I may not have a problem with this.

I know the best answer is to wait on 72 tubes. But like I said. I'm broke and it's going to be that way for awhile. You see. I've seem to have come down with the cancer and am going to be unable to work a job for awhile while going through chemo. So that's why I'm going to have a lot of time on my hands to get something done. I just hope I can even do it. :(

Anyone know what size thread is on the triple tree tube.

Anyone know if that lower triple tree clamp is cast iron or steel. I think I remember reading that the tube was pressed in then welded. If it was welded would that not indicate that it is steel.

Oh ya. Another plus to using the TX front end is I could make it dual disc brakse. Not my intention at the moment. But it's something to keep in mind.

So what do you guys think about all this shit. Whats your opinions please. And be nice. :D
 

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Hey Cal sorry to hear about the employment situation.
Being between is a bitch.
In the past I to wondered about the swap.
They are bigger tubes after all.
5twins gave me some of his good advice in the matter.
"Why would you? You would still have old piss poor technology for suspension."
Pretty much decided it for me.
 
Cal,
The thread will be a fine pitch metric, and finding a die will not be easy. But your machinist friend should have no problem cutting longer thread on a lathe. He should also be able to identify thread pitch and diameter. Actually you should be able to do this yourself, using a vernier caliper. The thread diameter is just that, the outer diameter of the thread. If you measure say 19.85 mm, then the nominal thread diameter is 20 mm.
Then count for example 5 threads, and measure the total length, which may be 10 mm. Then the pitch is 2.0 mm, and the thread is M20x2.0. See, the metric system is far easier to work with than Imperial :)
 
Hey Cal! Sounds like life has been busy kicking you in the teeth. Hope things improve for you.
The lower triple is a forging not cast iron.
A couple other options;
grind out the weld holding the stem to the lower triple, slide it down we-weld or swap in a shorter stem. This is straight forward, I have done it a few times.
add a spacer under the lower race.
 
Hey Cal sorry to hear about the employment situation.
Being between is a bitch.
In the past I to wondered about the swap.
They are bigger tubes after all.
5twins gave me some of his good advice in the matter.
"Why would you? You would still have old piss poor technology for suspension."
Pretty much decided it for me.

The only reason I want to do it is the cash flow situation. If I don't do it it will be who knows when I get the bike on the road. Could be a year or more.

If I use these TX forks, I technically can get the bike close to being done now. More ore less. :wink2:
 
Hi Cal,
sorry to hear you got sick, I wish you a full and speedy recovery.
And never mind it looks hokey, shove the spacer in there and get the bike back on the road as cheap and quick as you can.
Those 36mm forks may indeed be as old-fashioned as the 34mm forks but I bet they ain't nowhere near as whippy.
 
Hi Cal,
sorry to hear you got sick, I wish you a full and speedy recovery.
And never mind it looks hokey, shove the spacer in there and get the bike back on the road as cheap and quick as you can.
Those 36mm forks may indeed be as old-fashioned as the 34mm for. but I bet they ain't nowhere near as whippy.

I'll to you what. I just rode the ancient handling TX750 through st. Louis traffic out on poplur st bridge. major traffic on the big highway. I was actually thinking how well this thing handled with new modern tires on it. I was scared to death before to hit a groove in the road with the 40 year old originls.:eek:

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Hey Cal! Sounds like life has been busy kicking you in the teeth. Hope things improve for you.
The lower triple is a forging not cast iron.
A couple other options;
grind out the weld holding the stem to the lower triple, slide it down we-weld or swap in a shorter stem. This is straight forward, I have done it a few times.
add a spacer under the lower race.

The XS2 And Tx750 triple trees are different widths. So While I could switch stems, I can't mix and match upper and lower triples. The hole in the top triple is different between them too. But I think that's a matter of special washers and bushings. I'm going to have to take a closer look.

At first I really like the idea of putting the spacer underneath the lower race. But if I do that the steering damper will not engage.

Also if I go ahead and just put a spacer on top of the stem it will raise the whole top tree up. This will make the headlight ears too short.

I'm thinking about the switching stem part. Kinda sucks right now. All my stuff is at my buddies shop and I can't get a hold of him.

OOH. I just re-read through your post Gary. I totally missed the part about sliding the stem down. I don't know how the taper on the stem comes into play with the bearings. But I could cut the stem off the bottom to keep the taper in the same spot. I think this is the solution. :thumbsup:

Now I just have to decide if I want to loose the original look by loosing the steering damper knob.
 

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Another heads up; I think the TX750 triples have more offset too, the fork tubes are further in front of the neck.
Which ears gauges headlight are you going to use?
 
Another heads up; I think the TX750 triples have more offset too, the fork tubes are further in front of the neck.
Which ears gauges headlight are you going to use?

When you say the off set is different, do you mean the rake, or it just sticks out farther.

As far as headlight ears go. At first I thought I was stuck with the tx ears, headlight, and blinkers. But I got a good look at it today and I think I just may be able to pull off using the 72 stuff. Won't know until I start putting it together.

I don't have an assembled 72 fork. But the 72 lower fork is a little longer than the 73. Now I don't know if the upper tube is any different. I'm going to run gators anyway so that is a non issue I think.

What I think may happen, and this is a maybe, is I might end up with about a 1/2'' longer fork. Big deal. That's like lowering the back. :D

You wouldn't happen to have a complete 72 fork on a bike that you could measure do you?
 
Forgot to add.

If I want to keep the steering damper knob, I would have to use the 72 top triple. The bad thing though is I would have to cut it in half and make it about a 1/4'' wider and weld it back together. If I did that then I wouldn't have to try and rig the 72 gauge mount to the 73 top triple.

It's like how bad do i want that knob. At this point I really don't care about the knob. I guess I could say I have a 1 off custom. Hell, I might even put a TX swing arm on there. :thumbsup:
 
I got 21 3/8" center of axle to bottom of the lower triple on a stock 72 fully extended.

You know you can't mount that 72 wheel on the 750 forks and vice versa?
 
I got 21 3/8" center of axle to bottom of the lower triple on a stock 72 fully extended.

You know you can't mount that 72 wheel on the 750 forks and vice versa?

Is that with the fork off the bike. Or is the bike on the center stand. Which side. Guess it doesn't matter which side if you went from center of axle. :D

I just measured the 750. While on the ground, I got 21''.

As far as mounting the wheel. Is it just a width issue. Or what do you have in mind. I do happen to have a 76 dual disc rotor and mounting hub coming that I was going to use on the 750 to give it dual disc's. If I use it on the 72 I would have to drill and tap the mounting hole for the hub. I would also have to grind of the goofy flanges on the 72 hub to make it fit.

So what do you know. Do tell. :laugh:
 
Cal we've plowed a lot of this ground before. That rotor won't work with your 72 hub but will work on the TX750 or any later XS650 wheel.
This thread post #22 shows some of the details of the 72 that make it one year only
 
Cal we've plowed a lot of this ground before. That rotor won't work with your 72 hub but will work on the TX750 or any later XS650 wheel.
This thread post #22 shows some of the details of the 72 that make it one year only

Gary.

You're right. There's no way this later rotor is going on that 72 hub.

Do you think the TX750 hub and the later XS650 hubs are the same.

I think to make this work I would just need a tx/xs hub and axle with all spacers. Do you agree.

Would you happen to have a hub and rotor maybe.
 
The TX750 front hub is the same as all the later 650 ones. I have one on my 650 right now. I don't think the spacers are any different because of the slightly wider 750 trees either. The stepped end of your axle on the left side acts as the spacer there. That makes its width "adjustable".
 
Does this look like the right hub. Unknown year.
 

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any 73 up 36 spoke TX750 TX650 XS650 front hub works.

AFAIK the only Bogey Man is the XS360-400 hub that looks the same but is narrower.
 
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