Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools

It really is amazing when you think about it. All we are today, came from steam, leather and iron. Talk about humble beginnings... that's a factory that built the future. :geek:

When I went to trade school for manual machining almost all our machines were pre ww2 - first year students worked on overhead belt drive lathes that were converted to run on their own electric motor.

Our professor would always tell us that when his grandpa was a machinist in the days of steam the highest paid and most important person in the shop was the guy who shoveled coal and maintained the fire, as he dictated the pace and speed the operation ran at.

Pretty wild to think for the most part mills and lathes haven’t really changed all that much over time.
 
I have nothing older than 'quality' Chinese or Asian tools. Well , I do have one Mitutoyo micrometer which I never use and a few Milwaukee cordless tools, but the rest is just cheap Chinese. Some over 20 years old. I'm told because of that I obviously have no idea what I'm doing and that's why my work is so abysmal.
 
Well, that makes two of us, Tog.

My toolbox is a dog's breakfast of different brands. There might be a couple of Snap-On screwdrivers, but most of it is Husky, new-ish Craftsman, old Craftsman (my Dad's) SK-Wayne, Kobalt, Stanley, auto parts store brands, stuff I bought at the wholesale/resale place, garage and yard sale specials, and whatever else I needed/could afford at the time. I HAVE collected a pretty good assortment of genuine ViceGrip locking pliers (and a few mutts...) and most of my hand-held power tools are Milwaukee or Makita.

Yet somehow, I manage to muddle through. Usually...
 
Brand names are good, however, buying good Asian tools saves cash, cash you can spend on more tools. Some of my Asian tools, like micrometers, etc, I bought when I was living in Malaysia back in 93/95. So nearly 30 years old. I have an old Chinese 4" angle grinder I bought about 20 years ago, it was only $20 so copped an absolute caning but simply refused to die. I don't use it anymore as I now have three cordless angle grinders. But I keep it just for old times sake.
 
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I got a little sidetracked from working on the Supermax mill. I've been looking for a horizontal bandsaw semi-seriously for a couple of years and on Friday, this machine showed up on FB.



It's an early Kalamazoo 8" x 16". The tag is missing so I don't know the year for certain, but this is the cover from an old 1942 catalog on Kalamazoo's website and it looks identical to the one I just bought.



It seems that later it was known as a model 816 (hooda thunkit!) which is very similar but not identical saw. They seem to share many parts, but one major difference is the split gearcase with ball bearings on the early machine and single piece case with covers and tapered roller bearings in the later machine but don't quote me on any of this as I'm new to Kalamazoo saws.

Another giveaway that this is an early machine is the cast aluminum belt guard. I think I would have bought this saw just for the belt cover.



It did come with an extra blade and the rest of the aluminum front cover with cast-in lettering (another early trait, I think) and another feature that I really liked. I partially disassemble it for two reasons, the first is it weighs nearly 700 pounds so I needed to reduce the weight to get it off the back of my trailer without tipping the trailer over and second, to find out what condition the "innerds" were in, especially the gearbox since if you can even find one, it would be VERY expensive. I did check the backlash in the gears before buying the saw and it seemed to be very small so I was hopeful they were still in good shape, but I really wanted to see it with my own eyes as it was kind of a make-or-break item whether to keep the saw or part it out. As it turned out, the gears were in excellent condition (for an 80 year old machine-whew!) as was most everything else.



The only thing it really needs is a half-nut for the vise, a very non-standard part that I'm hoping I can buy someplace. It sits above the vise lead screw and is spring loaded away from it and a cam above the nut engages or disengages it as needed.



If not, I will have to repair the old one using a purchased acme nut and probably will need the mill to boot.

Also, the moveable jaw of the vise has a piece missing out of the adjustment slot, for now it will work fine with a spacer, but I will either repair it at some point or replace it if I can locate the correct part down the road.



It also needs EVERY bearing replaced. I don't know how long this has been sitting but every bearing had grease that had turned into a messy, gravely half-powder and there wasn't a single drop of oil in the gearbox.
 
Well that settles that one! I called Clausing/Kalamazoo and the half nut is $297 plus shipping and a $20 processing fee!! Guess I'll be repairing the original since a generic nut from Roton is $45 and, if I make it a removable piece in the original, I can make two replacements from the one nut. Can't believe I'll ever wear it out but down the line some future owner will thank me!
 
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Other than the change from manual control to CNC machines haven't changed much, especially lathes. The biggest changes in the last 20-30 years have been tooling. Going from HSS, to cemented carbide, to solid carbide and inserted tooling. That's driven the upgrades to CNC more than anything. A 3 axis mill is still very similar to a manual mill, they just run faster. A small CNC 30yrs ago would have a 4-6k rpm max on the spindle and would feed up to around 50ipm before bogging. Now the same size machines are running 12-16k spindles with max feed rates of well over 100ipm. Some of the big machines go even further, the machine I ran at Boeing ran 2.5" diameter 18" long tools at 16k rpm and feed rates of 1200ipm.
 
Just bodging around bumping the front chain ring on my eBike up a couple teeth. needed a special spanner to remove a ring nut.
Found one in the scrap bin..... ;^)
It had 1/2" socket drive and everything, :geek:
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Just bodging around bumping the front chain ring on my eBike up a couple teeth. needed a special spanner to remove a ring nut.
Found one in the scrap bin..... ;^)
It had 1/2" socket drive and everything, :geek:
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Very nicely done. Color me envious of those who have a nice machine shop at home. I would if I had the space, but since I don’t, I need to make sure I treat friends well who do 😀
 
Just bodging around bumping the front chain ring on my eBike up a couple teeth. needed a special spanner to remove a ring nut.
Found one in the scrap bin..... ;^)
It had 1/2" socket drive and everything, :geek:
I always enjoy seeing ingenious solutions to tooling challenges... I have a drawer full of such things, most of which end up being single-use tools. Anyone need a lightly used Mercedes R500 front damper retainer? How about a Kohler KT19 flywheel puller? No, ok, what about an F100 door hinge bushing drift or a BMW M10 flywheel mounting fixture for a lathe?
 
My most recent big project was a steering damper mount for my DRZ.
Beautiful work! Out of curiosity, why does the DRZ need a damper? Does it become twitchy at high speed? Asking because my XT 350 with its supermoto fork-and-wheel setup tends to feel a little unstable at speed and may need one as well.
 
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Beautiful work! Out of curiosity, why does the DRZ need a damper? Does it become twitchy at high speed? Asking because my XT 350 with its supermoto fork-and-wheel setup tens to feel a little unstable at speed and may need one as well.

It doesn't particularly need it, I've gotten a slight weave at about 50mph on a certain onramp but that could probably be fixed by adjusting the suspension better. I mainly did it because I've had the damper sitting in a box for over 10 years. Bought it used for a fzr400 project, never put it on.
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