The bolts are welded to a rebar square that's buried in the pour.Is it bolted down or just rest on wooden feet?
The bolts are welded to a rebar square that's buried in the pour.Is it bolted down or just rest on wooden feet?
And your test sheet hanging on the wall looks like 99% of my paint jobs, well really need a few more runs!
Always had a problem finding the sweet spot between sandpaper rough dry finish and runs that look like Niagara Falls in the winter!
Hi Ken,
the amateur spray painter's 3-way, eh?
Looks just about good enough.
Perhaps just one more coat?
Oh fuck!
It's quiet possible it would... provided the coils are rated for whatever pressure your compressor puts out. I finally got this one all plumbed in and working, but it's dryer than the Sahara here right now. So... no way to test it's effectiveness.I wonder if old baseboard heaters with the fins would give you better cooling and drop out more water.
Fin tube is quite thin, Type N or thinner the aluminum fins are slipped over the tube then a mandrel drawn through the tube to expand it to hold the fins.
No attribution, but found this,
"When finished, if it is Slant/Fin, it is rated at 200 PSI at 250° F., on our lowest rated model, and some models have a higher pressure rating.
Thinner metal transfers heat to the fins faster."
Pretty sure I had a dryer made of fin-tube in a garage paint shed long long ago. It never blew up. But an air/water exchanger may be more effective. 3/4 x 1/2x 1/2 tees with the stops reamed out so you have a 1/2" inner air pipe and a water jacket in 3/4 copper tube. placed at an angle so condensate drips can run down to the drip leg without getting picked up by the airflow.