Learning to MIG Weld. Advice Needed

SigEpRider

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Fellow riders. I am learning to MIG weld with a lincoln electric pro mig 175 that my brother had for his muffler shop. I am learning by watching videos and reading what I can. I am also going to approach a welding teacher in the school district I work for to get more advice and training.

I spent the evening running beads. What do you guys think. Any advice would be deeply appreciated. I don't want to mess up my nice G&L choppers hard tail.

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Those are some decent beads; I would personally have a professional or at least someone experienced in welding motorcycle frames. You'll do fine with most of your other welding needs (tabs, mounts, misc. fabrications) but when you're welding an essential part of the frame, you need to eliminate all doubts about it's durability.

Also running beads on a flat surface is much easier than a frame tube. I know I personally wouldn't be confident welding on a hard tail. Safety comes first!
 
Thanks for taking the time to look at my beads. I already had the frame hard tailed by G&L choppers. The only thing I need to weld on now is the rear fender, fender struts, pedals, etc. Trust me, I left the big stuff to the pros.
 
What steel did you use to practice on? I see some writing on the steel. I'm asking because it looks like it has a coating of some kind on it which will impede welding and therefore is not good to practice on, unless you grind the coating off first. I don't see enough penetration in your welds. A lot of the bead just seems to be on the surface. They're good for just starting out. it's really hard to tell with flat pics like that, though. Keep practicing, and with the various parts you have to work on, you'll be good to go. Your grinding will improve too!
 
I just got a bunch of scrap from my dad's office so I can't say what kind of metal I am working on. It does have a coating because it burns off as I weld. It was just metal to start practicing on, but i know i need to get some good raw metal. My hopes is that the welding teacher can spare some.

As far as penetration, it looks like it burns through the other side, but you might be right about the coating. I could just be preventing me from getting any really solid penetrating welds.

I'll keep practicing and thanks for the advice.
 
OK, now I see the holes at the ends of your welds. That crap metal is not going to help at all, except to show that you can weld fairly straight lines. Any coating is going to impede penetration, and more significantly some of that crap is pretty friggin toxic.

If you have a wrecking yard or scrapyard close by they'll probably part with some mild steel scrap for next to nothing. Practicing on a piece of pipe or an odd bit of scrap is always good because in the real world welding straight beads on a flat surface almost never happens.

I'm not trying to discourage. Any kind of practice is good and builds confidence. Keep at it!
 
Weld and then cut it in two across the weld, to see is to know. Do a little research, zinc (galvanizing) is not toxic. Surprised the crap out of me but true. A heavy concentration of zinc can make for a really ugly weld.
 
Weld and then cut it in two across the weld, to see is to know. Do a little research, zinc (galvanizing) is not toxic. Surprised the crap out of me but true. A heavy concentration of zinc can make for a really ugly weld.

Never said it was lethal. Only toxic. It will make you sick if you breathe enough of it in. Consider it comparable to smoking a cigar and inhaling. That's pretty much what it felt like. "fume fever". Learned that the hard way whenever I stayed after to help the shop teacher to repair a galvanized trailer. Made me sick that night and the next day.

We were using an arc welder so most of the welds looked fine.
 
I'm not really sure why he would need something that thick. Mostly what he's going to be welding (tabs etc) won't be nearly that thick. In fact, there isn't anything on the frame that is remotely close to 3/8".

Excellent advice from twins and gary. In my experience twins, everything is about prep and clean up, if you want it done well.

As far as toxicity, if you want to risk inhaling fumes from something that was almost definitely made in China... have fun with that. Lead is used in galvanization (it keeps the zinc fluid, allowing for thinner, more even coats) and since the Chinese have no problem putting Cadmium (a carcinogenic heavy metal) and lead in children's toys, I doubt they're overly concerned with the toxicity of the fumes you're inhaling from welding their steel (what actually looks to be a white metal, which may contain lead and cadmium among other things).
 
well.. I suggested 3/8 or there bouts, cuz he can make more passes without constantly qwenching, or waiting for the metal to cool. My miller 180 goes up to 3/8... his lincoln isnt that different.
 
The upper end single-pass max for both of those welders is 5/16" which realistically is more like 1/4" in real-world conditions. That being said, it doesn't really matter, since he isn't going to be welding 3/8" steel for his frame and therefore would be better served by practicing on steel with properties that are similar, if not the same as the frame tubing. In fact, the seat loop would be ideal to practice on if he still has it.
 
seat loop? what is that and why would it be good to practice on?

What gauge of steel do you recommend for making the tabs?

I want to make sure I get the kind of metal that I will be using to practice on.
 
He is saying use the chopped off parts of your frame for practice but I am guessing they stayed at the hardtailers. Most custom bike shops have a dumpster full of whacked off frame parts, go beg some for welding practice. Most likely tabs will be 1/8 or 3/16 mild steel. The local fleet store has steel that thickness in various widths like 1" wide by 3' long, suitable for making into brackets and tabs.
 
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