Learning to MIG Weld. Advice Needed

oh yeah, I had a bad (frustrating) experience when I accidentally bought "pipe" instead of tube. Needed it to make my rear brake pedal pivot and was horrified to see that the damn thing had that "seam" running down it, visible only on the inside, so no good for my use.

thanks again for the info.
 
Pipe is measured by the inside diameter and is used to carry fluids or gas. Tubing is measured by outside diameter and wall thickness and is used for structures, like motorcycle frames (mechanical tubing). You want to use tubing.

ERW is just how it's welded. If you buy tubing that hasn't been drawn over a mandrel, it's most likely a cold rolled or hot rolled electrically welded tube, and you'll have a small seam. If you buy tubing that has been drawn over a mandrel, the seam is flattened, and most people just call it DOM. It's usually 1020 (grade) mild carbon steel electric welded tubing that's been drawn over a mandrel to even out the wall thicknesses, remove the visible seam, and harden it a little bit. The seam is still technically there where it was welded. You can also specify that you want chromoly DOM tubing. So in addition to the size tubing you want (o.d. and wall), and the processes in which it's welded or worked, you also need to specify the grade of steel when buying material.

This is just scratching the surface... you could probably read for hours about pipe, tubing, grades of steel and alloys, cold rolled, hot rolled, surface finishes, harnesses, tensile strength, ERW, HREW, DOM, tolerances, etc.
 
True on the secret DIY welding but the big guys screw up too. Honda to cite one I know of had to replace frames under warranty when on some sport models the frame started cracking around the rear engine mounts and they have a bunch O real sharp guys figuring out all them there acronyms. Followed this welding stuff on home built airplanes and not normalizing welds causing unrelieved stress, large crystal structures around the weld seem to be favorite starting places for cracking, IE brittle is likely to be more dangerous than soft. Soft bends, brittle breaks? I've gone and looked at more than one home built airplane that had welds so scary the frame should have been cut to scrap there and then. That said I don't own a gas torch and haven't normalized a weld in decades.
 
This is just scratching the surface... you could probably read for hours about pipe, tubing, grades of steel and alloys, cold rolled, hot rolled, surface finishes, harnesses, tensile strength, ERW, HREW, DOM, tolerances, etc.


well thanks for the mini tutorial. Much appreciated!
 
Pipe is measured by the inside diameter and is used to carry fluids or gas. Tubing is measured by outside diameter and wall thickness and is used for structures, like motorcycle frames (mechanical tubing). You want to use tubing.

ERW is just how it's welded. If you buy tubing that hasn't been drawn over a mandrel, it's most likely a cold rolled or hot rolled electrically welded tube, and you'll have a small seam. If you buy tubing that has been drawn over a mandrel, the seam is flattened, and most people just call it DOM. It's usually 1020 (grade) mild carbon steel electric welded tubing that's been drawn over a mandrel to even out the wall thicknesses, remove the visible seam, and harden it a little bit. The seam is still technically there where it was welded. You can also specify that you want chromoly DOM tubing. So in addition to the size tubing you want (o.d. and wall), and the processes in which it's welded or worked, you also need to specify the grade of steel when buying material.

This is just scratching the surface... you could probably read for hours about pipe, tubing, grades of steel and alloys, cold rolled, hot rolled, surface finishes, harnesses, tensile strength, ERW, HREW, DOM, tolerances, etc.

Yeah, what he said.

:agree: Yeah, what he said. Had to learn this crap in my Ag Science class in high school and really don't remember much of it... Just remember to buy tube for most things!
 
I ran across this thread as one of the related threads to another one I was reading through.

Obviously there are some folks here who know their stuff, and I'd pay attention. I've learned a more than bit myself just now.

Unlike most of the folks here, I learned how to weld using a gas rig, and I still use it most of the time. I have a Lincoln Pro Mig 135 but it hasn't gotten much use since I bought it several years ago. It just always seems to be easier to grab the gas rig if I have minor work to do.

I have done some gas welding on a frame -- non structural area. A previous owner of my '78 XS had cut the loop off the back of the frame cuz he wanted to build a tracker and thought he needed to get rid of it. Fortunately when I bought the bike from him, I got the loop too and was able to weld it back on. I found that the trick was to use the right size flame point or else I'd blow through the tubing and create a hole. Easy does it. Once I found this happy medium, I was able to reattach the loop with a minimum of fuss.

So I taught myself how to weld with the help of the rather well-known and widely used shop text, Modern Welding. I have two editions -- one dating from the 60s and the other from the 80s. It is still being published. Very highly recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Welding-William-Bowditch/dp/1566379873

The hardcover edition is pretty pricey, the softcover much more affordable, especially if you buy used. I like this book because it is thorough and very easy to understand. It was written for high-school and college vocational classes so its long on practice, but still covers theory well.

Another book on welding I bought was Performance Welding.

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Welding-Motorbooks-Workshop-Richard/dp/0760303932

I didn't find it quite as useful as the text, but it was interesting to see the various projects the author has done. I also learned from this book that brazing, when done right, can be a viable substitute to welding, even for structural purposes.

For fabricating or tacking together small parts, a welding table is essential, I feel. I put together a simple one using an old Black and Decker (Shop Task I think it's called?) collapsible utility table, and laid a slab of 2' x 3' x 3/8" steel on top of it. The steel flat was big enough and thick enough (such that it acted as a heat sink) where I was able to use it as a welding surface without having to worry too much about penetration.

For practice, I bought a few pieces of 2" x 1/8" thick stock, a few feet long from my local Home Depot, and cut them up into pieces with my chop saw. Then I proceeded to weld them back together. That's the best way I know of to tell if you're getting good penetration, cuz you can examine both sides of the weld, and even cut it apart to examine it if need be. It was only after I was able to produce a decent bead welding the flats back together that I began working on any welding projects.

This was all gas though. With my MIG welder, all I've done so far is tack stuff together, but if I were to need to do some serious work with it, I'd start first by practicing welding flats back together and then do the same thing with scrap tubing.

Welding isn't rocket science, but it still requires that one pay close attention to detail, use the proper techniques, do conscientious prep work, and that one practice, practice, practice.
 
Worked my way thru high school in a weld shop using stick. Years later got my hands on a MIG welder and had a stiffy before the first pass was complete.
Big ditto on Cooltouch's comment about prep. Clean and shiny metal, NO contaminants. A wire wheel between passes doesn't hurt.
Em's earlier comment about a little ditch, "bevel" is also right on. You can weld in smaller passes and still get the penetration needed. Was also taught and susequently proved that you should angle the nozzle slightly forward as this positions the shielding gas at the point of business.
Set up a prectice, dry run, make sure your hand travel doesn't snag or hang up. Brace hands and arms for ease and consistancy of travel and PRACTICE.

Good luck
 
Always grind the metal down first. If weld is penetrating turn down the voltage and wire speed. Then if it feels like it is struggling to weld, adjust voltage up a little bit.
 
^ you mean if you are blowing holes through the metal, then turn it down... You want definitely want the weld to penetrate.
 
SOCO, that is not correct. I assume you mean by penetrating . . burning through?? But one way to control the bead is with the wire feed. By inceasing the feed, you have less chance of burning through. Also, you select the heat range for the thicjness of the material you are welding. Then adjust your wire feed to get the weld right. Your wire feed is your "fine tuning" adjustment.
 
Last edited:
There are times where if you are creating too much heat the wire feed being fast could push through the weld easily, but I consider that a problem with heat choice. Of course it depends on the machine and heat you are using, but most times you need to adjust the wire feed no more than 1/4 of a number to effect a real change. For example, I use between 4 and 4 1/2 on my machine when on the lowest two heat settings. I can get real changes by moving the wire feed that little amount.
I have taught MIG welding for many years as part of courses I teach. I work with young kids who have no experience. Start practicing with one piece of metal only,. Do not try to weld two pieces together. Just run beads until they are straight and consistent in penetration and width of the bead. Then move onto two pieces and start with lap welds. Direct most of your heat at the lower or bottom piece of the lap joint. The top piece will melt easily. Learn to lay a good bead in a straight line following the joint. It takes practice guys, go at it :)
 
Back
Top