loose barbs in carb holder

kjodell10

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I finished rebuilding my carburetors and am getting ready to make a manometer for synching them, but I discovered the vacuum barbs are loose, and slide in and out of the holders pretty easily. I'm sure there's the potential for a leak there and would ordinarily replace them, but I can't find any holders for my '78 E except for some suspiciously cheap ones on ebay. Another thread on the subject seemed to suggest the barbs could be fixed in place with an adhesive. Is this a possible fix?
 
I had the same issue with my original '78 manifolds but only one nipple came loose. I bought the more readily available '74-'77 holders without the barbs and transferred them. I drilled holes in the new manifolds (3/16" if I recall) that allowed for a tight, interference fit, smeared some Yamabond on the nipples, and tapped them in. They've been in use for many years now, still tight and never leaked. So, I guess what I'm getting at is don't throw away the vac nipples if you do replace the manifolds, you may be able to re-use them.
 
I had the same issue with my original '78 manifolds but only one nipple came loose. I bought the more readily available '74-'77 holders without the barbs and transferred them. I drilled holes in the new manifolds (3/16" if I recall) that allowed for a tight, interference fit, smeared some Yamabond on the nipples, and tapped them in. They've been in use for many years now, still tight and never leaked. So, I guess what I'm getting at is don't throw away the vac nipples if you do replace the manifolds, you may be able to re-use them.
Thanks! -Mikes has '74-'77 manifolds with barbs; are they compatible? Something I read elsewhere seemed to suggest the nipple placement was awkward and interfered with another component.
 
Although the part that grips the carb is rubber, it's bonded to an aluminum base. That's what mounts against the head and what you drill through for the barbs. The barbs aren't mounted in the rubber part, they're pressed through the aluminum part.
 
Although the part that grips the carb is rubber, it's bonded to an aluminum base. That's what mounts against the head and what you drill through for the barbs. The barbs aren't mounted in the rubber part, they're pressed through the aluminum part.
I learn something every day...
 
Although the part that grips the carb is rubber, it's bonded to an aluminum base. That's what mounts against the head and what you drill through for the barbs. The barbs aren't mounted in the rubber part, they're pressed through the aluminum part.
I pulled the old manifold and it's cracked, so I bought the barbless ones and will drill for the barbs. Thanks for the input! Really appreciate all the help here.
 
You'll need to carefully locate where the barbs need to go by fitting the tin shrouds over the manifolds .....

ZC8Ganx.jpg


They have a notch cut out of them for the barb to fit into .....

0eKo0fp.jpg
 
You'll need to carefully locate where the barbs need to go by fitting the tin shrouds over the manifolds .....

ZC8Ganx.jpg


They have a notch cut out of them for the barb to fit into .....

0eKo0fp.jpg
Righto.Here's another question (steep learning curve here). I'm presuming a new gasket will need to be installed under the new manifold? The old gaskets are REALLY on there...
 
Yes, and it's best to use an original type which is quite thick. The replacement manifolds may come with just regular thin paper gaskets. I won't use those. I suspect that the thick gasket was used for more than just sealing purposes. I think it also isolates them from engine heat. You can get nice, reasonably priced thick gaskets from YamahaXS650.com .....

https://yamahaxs650.com/product/intake-spiggot-gasket-pk-2/
 
Yes, and it's best to use an original type which is quite thick. The replacement manifolds may come with just regular thin paper gaskets. I won't use those. I suspect that the thick gasket was used for more than just sealing purposes. I think it also isolates them from engine heat. You can get nice, reasonably priced thick gaskets from YamahaXS650.com .....

https://yamahaxs650.com/product/intake-spiggot-gasket-pk-2/
I searched through some gaskets I'd been given for my SR500, and there are two which are quite thick, and appear to be a perfect match. Any tips on removing the old ones? They're solidly adhered to the head. Also, I understand a silicon gasket dressing is usual. On both head and manifold? Many thanks.
 
No, no, no, ...... no silicone gasket maker ..... ever ..... anywhere on the bike. When I find that on a bike I get, I know I may be in for trouble because the bike was worked on by a real rookie. That shit is just plain terrible. For gasket sealer on these, in the very few places it's needed, you want to use something like Hylomar or Yamabond. These are non-hardening sealers but not silicone. For the intake manifolds, I put a small bead on the manifold side, nothing on the engine side. This way, the gasket sticks to the manifold and comes off with it. Not like what you're faced with now, lol. You can use paint stripper to basically melt the old gaskets off. It will take several applications. Apply it and let it soak for 10 or 15 minutes then gently scrape off what has softened and re-apply. This is the safest way to get old stuck on gaskets off without damaging the sealing surface.

When you install the new manifolds, if possible let them sit on there overnight before putting the carbs on, then re-torque the mounting screws. This thick gasket will compress quite a bit so the screws will be pretty loose the next day.
 
No, no, no, ...... no silicone gasket maker ..... ever ..... anywhere on the bike. When I find that on a bike I get, I know I may be in for trouble because the bike was worked on by a real rookie. That shit is just plain terrible. For gasket sealer on these, in the very few places it's needed, you want to use something like Hylomar or Yamabond. These are non-hardening sealers but not silicone. For the intake manifolds, I put a small bead on the manifold side, nothing on the engine side. This way, the gasket sticks to the manifold and comes off with it. Not like what you're faced with now, lol. You can use paint stripper to basically melt the old gaskets off. It will take several applications. Apply it and let it soak for 10 or 15 minutes then gently scrape off what has softened and re-apply. This is the safest way to get old stuck on gaskets off without damaging the sealing surface.

When you install the new manifolds, if possible let them sit on there overnight before putting the carbs on, then re-torque the mounting screws. This thick gasket will compress quite a bit so the screws will be pretty loose the next day.
Fabulous! Thank you, sir.
 
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