Don’t get me started flat black and “rat bikes/rods”. Flat paint started out as suede paint jobs that were largely real paint oversprayed with clear & flattening agent. And mostly in reds and blues. That somehow turned into rattle can black primer which is not paint. It then became a justification for poor work. No flat black for this guy, I view clear coat as an accessory and it should be applied liberally.Paint is gonna look something like this.
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Good for you for bucking that flat black trend! I like some color.
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Is that contraption real? It looks like something that Ichiban on YouTube uses!
Got my head pipes mocked up, not trimmed to length. Will be running upswept cocktail shaker mufflers. I will be having the kicker shaft machined down to a square to accept a Harley kicker lever with offset to clear the pipes.
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@Jan_P thank you, in English it’s called a buck. In this case I glued them all together because it was easier to have a solid block to work with as a proxy for the tank and there wasn’t much need for disassembly of the buck. I’m not sure what wood I used for the buck, they were box lids from shipping crates from Germany. Beech or European yellow pine I would suspect.Yes Sir world Class Job ... I am impressed to learn new things almost every day here.
I have also worked with sheet metal and buys every tool I can find at flea markets.
As well as literature the ...older the better.
As I understand you are using slices of wood as card deck cards and puts these slices in the frame inside.
A Whole block would not go in ..and then adapting each of these slices for making a wooden block.
That wooden block is then used for the forming of the outside of the box I don't know what it is in English in Swedish it is called
" Svep " or the " Svep Side "
This is clever work and I have not heard or seen that ..
I have heard of whole blocks of wood being formed to the desired curve with complex geometry
and then the tinsmith forms the Car part on that. hammering and so.
Exotic Hard wood ---Perhaps no longer legal to use.
With this method one has a chance making a patch for fex a CAR fender should one need to
And that is a huge advantage if neither replacement fender or patch is available.
And even better for places not visible.
Do you glue the slices together ? What wood is used ? Is that ca 2 mm thick sheet metal
Is this a well know method for fex CAR body parts in the US.
Using heated metal ? possible ?
Thanks Mailman, I also really enjoy brazing. I haven't much occasion to do it in a very long time though. I am not ashamed to say that it took me quite a while to get my rhythm back today. I got the brazing rod at Home Despot and they were over a buck apiece for 4 flux coated rods. I was not impressed, but I'm not sure what I excepted from big box home center brazing rods ... I think I'm gonna run to the welding supply store tomorrow and get some proper nickel/bronze rod and a 1lb of flux. I used to braze a lot when I was working on old Iron Head Sportys, they were notorious for cracking/breaking around the exhaust spigots and most needed to be brazed up.Super nice work , as usual. Brazing is something you don’t see a lot of guys do anymore. When I was a welder I lived to braze, brass flows so nice and it is surprisingly strong. You can even buy special alloy rods that are very strong. Your project is a lot of fun to follow!
There's an old pilots axiom that says "you are only as good as you are current." Among many other skills, that applies to brazing too.I haven't much occasion to do it in a very long time though. I am not ashamed to say that it took me quite a while to get my rhythm back today.
Jim, no truer words were ever typed. I guess you could say I was a little RUSTY!There's an old pilots axiom that says "you are only as good as you are current." Among many other skills, that applies to brazing too.
I used a Victor 0 tip, oxy/acc 3/3, low neutral flame 4-5mm cone, and 1/16 (1.5mm) filler rod. It looks like larger filler rod because it’s flux coated.As input
Are those the rods at the table grey ones ..rather large diameter 3 mm . ???
I Have never seen so large.
If so the brazing could benefit of smaller diameter rod ..and small localized flame.
The metal work has fine fit no larger cracks . And it is possible to move the object to an advantageous position for brazing
That small flame not much larger than 2 x 3 x a cigarette lighter flame keeping the flame core at the crack on an angle and then touch it with the filler rod when temp is up. Move on. If it is to slow then increase heat
The lower input gives more time to hit it and a smaller heat zone.
You could in theory -- and some can do .. Some never can learn it ... Do the same with a steel rod filler about the same diameter and little higher temperature but then one needs to be alert and that is many times more difficult.
Piping was gas welded here. .And also with rather small diameter for filler
1.5 -- 2 mm there exists 3 mm but I have never seen it in use
A little cleanup and it'll look just fine.As input
Are those the rods at the table grey ones ..rather large diameter 3 mm . ???
I Have never seen so large.
If so the brazing could benefit of smaller diameter rod ..and small localized flame.
The metal work has fine fit no larger cracks . And it is possible to move the object to an advantageous position for brazing
That small flame not much larger than 2 x 3 x a cigarette lighter flame keeping the flame core at the crack on an angle and then touch it with the filler rod when temp is up. Move on. If it is to slow then increase heat
The lower input gives more time to hit it and a smaller heat zone.
You could in theory -- and some can do .. Some never can learn it ... Do the same with a steel rod filler about the same diameter and little higher temperature but then one needs to be alert and that is many times more difficult.
Piping was gas welded here. .And also with rather small diameter for filler
1.5 -- 2 mm there exists 3 mm but I have never seen it in use