Mike's Master Cylinder - Is there a little seal to remove?

davem222

davem222
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Hey all,
I got a Mike's low profile master cylinder, and I am a novice, so if this is silly, please let me know, but I installed it, hooked it up to the brake line and brake caliper (which I rebuilt), put in brake fluid (there was none in there) and nothin. I did notice that there's a little plastic cap on the bottom here (it's the little yellow guy). Is that thing supposed to be removed? It seems so but I don't want to fuck up a part that I need. Please let me know as I am totally lost here. Thanks!

Dave
 

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Hmm, just going through the "bleeding the brakes" section on the Tech section. Do I need to "bleed" the brakes with a pump even if it's the first time I'm putting fluid in?
 
Does it have any holes in it? if it does then it should stay if no holes it needs to come out. I'm guessing it has holes and is there to prevent fluid from spurting out of the ports.

Yes you have to bleed ESPECIALLY the first time. LOL
Doesn't HAVE to be with a pump but it is easier that way.
 
Gotcha. Thanks Gary, lol, can you tell this is my first build? Ha ha ha. I think I'll try it without the pump, ie the by hand ""lever, nipple, pump-pump, nipple, lever", repeat" way that Littlebill goes over in the Tech section.

I know I'm silly for even asking but hey, better safe than sorry, right? Enjoy the eve :)

Dave
 
I have the same problem with one. Won't bleed yet i put stock one on and good. May have been a bad run. Mine sat new in the box for the last 9 months so i got to eat it and i ordered another from someone else. Tried everything but just doesn't pump enough.Owell my fault for not checking when i got it. Bought others from them and no problem.
 
i have the same one. u dont need a pump. n
leave the 'nipple' closed, you have to do alot, and i mean alot of pumping the lever, with fluid in the resevour, before you see anything happen, then, just when you think it dont work , you will see very small bubbles come up from the bottom. keep pumping, you dont have to go fast. there is a slight moment where more air will come up, just as the plunger starts its movement(haha, movement). keep doing that untill no more air comes up, by then the lever should be very spongy. now that you got most of the air out of the MC, now do the pump, pump, nipple, thing.
this MC works great with mikes ss one peice line.
 
Don't listen to angus Go to harbor fright and buy a hand vacuum pump kit,

image_11800.jpg

$25.00 I have had mine for about 5 years and 20 brake jobs now.
the brakes will take all of 10 minutes to bleed. I just did a full front brake overhaul on my 79 and that's how long it took to solid lever.

Before the pump I used tubing into a catch jar and the pump nipple routine that probably takes 15 minutes.
 
dont listen to gary! he's lazy! whats the ratio of the bikes tht run vs. the one that dont in your shed, G!! lol.
I didnt say you have to have it, I said you dont need it. I happened to not have one, there fore, 30 minutes later, my hand is on fire.!!
wish i had one.
 
It's creeping up, even after having sold 6 running bikes this year. 5 runners 5 "future runners" 1 never gonna happen. The 79 has been running but I am polishing up a front rim for it as long as I had to put a tire on it. Got the clear coat off. I think they used some catalyzed clear coat in 79 it did not give up easy. Will trade a brake job for wheel polishing. Polished the fork lowers too. probably 3-4 hours each in those. but they are kinda pretty.

79 Standard XS650 forks.jpg
 
Lol, you guys are hysterical. FYI just got back from Harbor Freight. In the battle between my laziness and my cheapness, this one goes down on the books for laziness. Thanks guys :)

Dave
 
Don't worry about a small amount of air bubbles continuing to show in the fluid as you pump. The air gets in around the "loose" bleeder nipple threads and will not bother a thing. It's easier to use the pump if you keep the hose between the pump and the catch bottle very short, otherwise the catch bottle is always flopping around and is impossible to keep upright.
 
After you go through either the "hand job" or the lazy (smart) man's method :laugh:, wrap a bungee or rope around the brake to bar and leave it over night. Any remaining air will bubble up over night and give you a solid hydraulic system.
 
After you go through either the "hand job" or the lazy (smart) man's method :laugh:, wrap a bungee or rope around the brake to bar and leave it over night. Any remaining air will bubble up over night and give you a solid hydraulic system.

Great advice! Turn the bars and bike so the path is "all uphill" to the master cylinder. I don't seem to need to have the handle held, just pump it a few times in the morning and watch a few bubbles come out of the port into the reservoir. Hard brakes are SO cool.
 
Well i guess the one i got is really screwed up. I left it that way for 3 days had fluid but still no luck. Tried everything then just put stock old one on and 5 pumps and its hard and works fine. Did both ways with reverse pump and pumped my ass off for hours before i gave up. NEW sometimes doesn't mean it works.
 
FYI I got a response back from Mike's regarding the little cap, here's what they said: "That is a plug that was installed by the manufacturer to keep debris out and a small amount of lube in the master cylinder for shipping,you should remove it.". Don't know if I should trust the customer service at Mike's lol.
 
i didnt take mine out. works fine. call em back and ask if they have used them. then you decide.
 
I just bought another from another company and in 10 mins done. You should not have to be taking parts out of something new to make it work. Sounds like the next time i buy from them my check is going to be broke and i will have to give them instructions on how to place check so its fixed.
 
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