new guy with a new hardtail.

[TLCbobber]

Hello all, my first post.... and yes it's with a small problem :S

I'm chop/bobbin a UK spec '77 xs with 18" rear wheel...
I just took delivery of my new David Bird looptail from lowbrow the other day and realised the axle plates are 8" 3/4 apart leaving me a space of 1/4" for my wheel to flop about in...

I know the simple solution is to put washers in, but then my castle nut wouldn't wind up far enough to either stick a split pin in or use the full thread of the nut. Are there longer axle bolts available? As far as I've read there are only 2 versions, pre '74 and post '74 meaning I've already got the longer one.

I can tighten my axle up and draw the frame in but I dun really wanna be doin that :S

It seems to me that 8"3/4 is just wrong... any other DB wearers find this?

Having had an idea while typing, I've put the axle adjusters in the wrong way round, now it fits well, nice and snug.... only thing is my axle bolt won't go right through the chain side.... one axle adjuster has a smaller hole than the other. I see what's happened now. /sigh
Oh well, at least it's a nice lookin Htail
So now I've realised where the problem is... WHY ME? lol

 

[Hairyblackdude]

I used 2 large 3/4" washers inside of the 2 chain tensioners... It took up the extra space The washer also helped the inner tensioner plate mimic the outer one in thickness which helped align the tensioner bolts with the divots in my axle plates. However, My spacing is around 8.5".

The tensioners were only designed to go one way- the thicker part is supposed to be on the outside of the axle plates. I believe it even has a line on the top of it so you can set them the same. As you have discovered, one of the holes is only large enough to fit over the axle bolt threads..

I don't really understand the difference between using the tensioners backwards or just sticking 2 washers in.. Tight is tight & the bolt size isn't gonna change.

If you can slip a cotter pin thru the axle bolt & it lines up with the castle nut, you are good to go. Just make sure its tight.

 

[TLCbobber]

If I put extra washers in I'd need to remove the thick washer parts with the line on from the axle adjusters... bit of a pointless no brainer. I can't use the adjusters correctly and fit washers, the axle bolt/castle nut simply won't thread up enough.

2 choices, cut the tail in two, remove 1/4" and re-weld to 8.5".. or drill out the adjuster hole to 20mm (or use 2 right hand side adjusters) and use them both backwards.

The thing is, the bolt head and nut should ideally be up against the thick washers of the adjusters rather than the thin plate of the adjuster itself.

I just like things right to begin with.

 

[trance]

Personally, I'd just squeeze it back together. Use a strap clamp.

 

[XSLeo]

On the adjuters they are made that way to keep the nut on the right side. If you look at it the right side, the one with a smaller hole on the out side only has a mark on the top while the left has a mark on both the top and bottom. This marks are used to aline the wheel straight in the stock swingarm.
I dont think the hard tails have the marks for this.
Put the axle adjusters on right And tighten the axle to squeeze the axle plates in to touch the wheel spacers.
If you have extra space to fill because you run out of threads then add washers as hairy black dude said.
They use thinner axle plates because the 70-73 years used thinner axle plates, that's why the early used a shorter axle.
The 74 up stock swingarm was 8 1/4 inches beyween the axle plates and that is wider than the wheel. You need a bit of space to get the wheel in between the axle plates.
You might contact the folks that did the hardtail installation and see what they say.
Leo

 

[Paulrxs650]

Hi TLCBobber

Im up in Northumberland, I had a similar problem and I solved it with a ratchet strap and a bit of heat. Sometimes they twist a bit during installation. For 1/4" it worked well for me