oil capacity

If you pulled both drain plugs and cleaned both filters somewhere around 2.5 quarts. Dip stick is checked bike in factory stance, level side to side dip stick NOT screwed in just resting on threads.
 
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I thought it was dip stick not screwed in, just resting in hole?
 
I think the guy that wrote the owners manual for checking the oil level never had lunch with the engineer who designed the dip stick. I just drain the oil and refill with the recommended amount of 2 Qts and then check the level with the dip stick screwed in all the way. The level is then at the top mark instead of that vague "in between the two marks" that the manual says. Works for me. Works for anyone because you know that exactly two quarts is in the sump.
 
1980 Special. I just did my second oil change (since ownership) and I think I may have over filled it. What is weird though, is that the bike seems to be running fine. However, and this is why Im posting, now it takes me forever to get it to start with the kicker. It’s a battery-delete, kick-only bike. On my first oil change, I used the top line on the dipstick with it all the way screwed in and had no problems, usually one or two kicks it would start. And on this oil change I used the ‘rest it in the hole unscrewed’ top line. I also adjusted my cam chain tensioner ever so slightly back to flush. If I check the dip stick after it is screwed down, it is reading about a half inch past the top line, with my first oil change I had the oil level flush with the stick fully turned in and seated...The weather here has been a little on the cold side, 25-35 degrees F, and I used Valvoline 20W-50 4T motorcycle oil...could I be needing to lighten the weight of the oil I’m using? It is also noticeably more difficult to kick over. My plan is to drain off a little bit of oil and go by the level check method I used for the first oil change...thought Id post to see if anyone has ever heard of an over-fill causing hard starting...thanks
 
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Winter oil should be much lighter. Like a 10W-40 M/C oil. 20-50 is summer oil. Like molasses until warmed up.
 
Very Well, I’ll drain and refill with the 10W-40, (and hell..Ill even warm up the sump first as gggGary suggested, with the hair dryer, to see if that will allow me to start it easier, to warm the oil for draining). As for the fill line, do you think I should keep it where it is? With the dipstick resting on the hole and the level reading flush to the top line, or with it screwed in and flush with the top line? Thanks for the responses everybody. (I do like the idea of a remote engine warmer...I’ve seen them for cars, visiting a bud in Montana and saw what looked like a wall plug hanging out of the grill on his truck.)
 
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(I do like the idea of a remote engine warmer...I’ve seen them for cars, visiting a bud in Montana and saw what looked like a wall plug hanging out of the grill on his truck.)

Must have been a block heater. Common up these ways. I lived in Calgary, Alberta for a few years and all the shopping malls had outlets in front of the vehicle parking rows to plug in your block heater while shopping. Hydro was cheaper then.
 
I thought it was dip stick not screwed in, just resting in hole?

Yep I'm all for not screwed in, just resting in the hole, bike vertical on its wheels on the level.
I put 2 litres in then check and generally have to add a little bit more....then I go for a ride (thats the best part of changing oil)
and recheck it when I get home.
Its not rocket science.
 
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Yep I'm all for not screwed in, just resting in the hole, bike vertical on its wheels on the level.
I put 2 litres in then check and generally have to add a little bit more....then I go for a ride (thats the best part of changing oil)
and recheck it when I get home.
Its not rocket science.
Too true. Thank you for the response. I wound up bringing ole “Crankee” into the house for a few days, to warm up the oil...I also put a heat dish space heater on him for a few hours. Changed out the oil for 10W-40, kicked it over and it started no problems! After letting it warm up, took him for a quick run and came back to check the level with the stick resting on the hole...reads a milimeter or so below the top line.

I named the bike “Crankee” because it reminds me of an ornery old man who just wants to be left alone. At first it seemed like “he” fought my efforts to get him on the road, like it was possessed, a Christine or something. So far I have not made any major cut & chop mods, instead choosing to work with what is there, making it a little more streamlined. “Crankee” has slowly been coming around to my nudges and improvements.
 
I just did both o/f filter screens on a 1982 engine. I am installing it in a 1978 frame.
It helps to use a small funnel to control the amount that goes in. After 2.5 qts the sight glass shows inbetween the high and low marks.The dipstick resting on the threads (not screwed in,per the 1981 yamaha owners manual) shows at low mark.When I screwed in the dipstick all the way, it showed at full, high mark. At the time these bikes were made,there was no internet,half the time no one looked in the owner's manual. So I believe Yamaha did this to avoid overfilling the engine.They made it "idiot proof".
 
Yes, maybe so. On both of mine, the window reads higher than the stick as well but still I'm glad to have it. I rarely use the stick for checking except when I change the oil. After that, I just go by the window. If I don't see any oil in it, I add some.
 
As compared to the window, the stick indicates low with the bike on the centerstand. Resting on the front and rear tires, they indicate about the same.
 
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