Oil Leak?

shiiiit.... my sump plate drips a few drops. I pay no mind. but when parked at home, it gets a pan of kitty litter under it. Ive tried new gasket, and when I torqued down the bolts, I stripped one, then after I helicoiled that one, I stripped another, and yes, I know how to use a torque wrench.
what Im saying is it just might not matter in the long run. your supposed to check oil every time you run.
 
thats great news.....
you'll have to rename your bike Exxon Valdez :D
 
I just started the bike up after tightening the front bottom part of the valve cover, no leaks:bike: notice a oil going dow along motor, (not wet) need to check oil and test drive soon to check it out. I'm praying and hoping that is all it is:thumbsup:
 
You were right DogBunny, it is the push-rod seal. took action last night, hopefully I did it right? Now to order parts. didn't take out bushing yet.
 

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Yes, there are several ways. There is a thread on this going on right now. Titled How do you remove the clutch push rod bushing?
Leo
 
Is their an easy way to get that bushing out:confused:

the easiest way is to prise part of the bush out into the centre where you can pull it out with thin nose pliers.

The bush is a a spring bush and has a spilt down through the side so you just drive a thin metal spike or driver blade down between the bush and the shaft just next to one side of the split.
 
If you're ordering parts and your bike doesn't already have it, you should change to the long one piece clutch pushrod. It wiggles less so it seals better and puts less wear on the bushing.
 
Hey guys, question. when putting in push rod seal in, does it go in dry or do I put anything on it? the other 650 forum says not to use a socket to drive seal in, just use your thumbs, is that correct?
 
Make sure you bevel the edge of the opening first and remove any burrs carefully with some wet and dry.Clean the opening including the groove where the ridge on the oil seal should fit

Spread a little three bond around the outer edge of the seal and smear a little vasoline on the inner lips then press in with fingers if possible. If you drift it in with a socket you are likely to damage the seal
 
What is this three bond stuff? vasoline I have. and if you look at the top opening you well see I miss it up a little where I used my screwdriver, will that be ok with using the wet sandpaper? what size?
 

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i believe it is the same stuff as Yamabond Threebond 1104 NEO a grey liquid rubber based liquid gasket .:thumbsup:

You are going to need to get in there and scrape and create a bevel on the edge of the oil seal opening with the tip of a sharp knife or something similar or you risk damaging the new seal when you press it in.
I strongly recommend that you watch Carbons video
 
Here is a better pic of the damage I did with the screwdriver:doh: my question, should I still try to work that down, as you can see it is the part of where the seal goes except where i pried with screwdriver caving the metal in.
 

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I would say all you need to do is make a bevel to the edge as I explained and that burr will dissapear. The only part of the crankcase that matters here is the inner surface where the oil seal sits .

The lip where your screwdriver has dented is of no consequence provided you bevel and deburr the lip and press the oil seal in square with some gasket cement applyed around the inside of the seal housing

yes you can put the rod in before you press the seal in if you wish but there is a risk that if you press the oil seal in and it isn't perfectly square you could damage the inner oil seal lip on the push rod.

Really Richard you are worrying too much about this . The worst that can happen is you fubar the oil seal in which case you just fit the spare one you bought as Carbon suggests in the video. Just raise the bike (oil seal ) up to eye level if you can and get a spot lamp or good torch on it so you can see exactly what you are doing and go for it.
 
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