OK carb guru's what 's up here.

gggGary

If not now, When?
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Seen on a FB XS650 group. I know nothing beyond the pic.
F-d up bs34s.jpg

I have a theory of what went on here :confused: but take a look, make your best guess. :sneaky:
 
The screws holding the top on the right carb are too short, the T connector has been altered/heated, some dark patches and corrosion on the left so perhaps it got fire damaged or went swimming or sat with the weather coming from the left?? Hell I don't know, maybe the angle iron got cut to get the carbs synchronized right and then the T connector had to be altered to fit the new angle iron position...:laughing:
 
Well, the mystery will be solved soon enough. Those carbs are on their way to my house, I bought them for a song. I have a roached set of BS34's with good brackets and a tee. Hoping I can rebuild these or at least make a good set out of the two. Even if I can't I can harvest parts form them and still be money ahead for what I paid.
 
The intricacies of Redneck engineering never cease to amaze me.... and I've seen some shit! The only thing missing is some JB Weld!

Mike

Michael-Michael-Michael....what do you think is holding in those stripped-out brass jets inside the carbs?
 
Well, the mystery will be solved soon enough. Those carbs are on their way to my house, I bought them for a song. I have a roached set of BS34's with good brackets and a tee. Hoping I can rebuild these or at least make a good set out of the two. Even if I can't I can harvest parts form them and still be money ahead for what I paid.
It's an ill wind that blows no good!
Great rusty!
ps my take is a leaking fuel tee and hard to remove angle iron screws the lead in to the butchery. you can see one phillips replaced with a bolt. Probably no reason these can't be revived to go back into duty if the mix screws are free.
pete.jpg
 
Yes Sir
ref Jims #2

That is what I am talking about as soon as a possibility is given
I have tried to separate 2 sets of Carburetors BS 34 on 1980
Not knowing it was JIS Screws not knowing how to Fixate the set cant put them in a vice.
And some white locking compound on the screws
Stiff resistance all the way out.
Drilling .. using screw extractors.
Those Phillips looking heads should be outlawed ..flat out
If you ask me ,
There is not a snowballs chance in the heated shop where Mr Lucifer is boss separating those carburetors
Without many hours careful job
I believe it is the most awkward i have ever Encountered in all my life at least for 35 years on Motorcycles.

But i remember the advice -- was it Mr5 Twins
Clamp them between 2 x 4 s on the workbench and use a Impact wrench of some kind.
Shall do that next time but I would be surprised if that works .Even if I now have JIS Impact bits
 
It's an ill wind that blows no good!
Great rusty!
ps my take is a leaking fuel tee and hard to remove angle iron screws the lead in to the butchery. you can see one phillips replaced with a bolt. Probably no reason these can't be revived to go back into duty if the mix screws are free.
View attachment 185409
Yeah, I'm no stranger to getting old beat up carbs apart. I don't foresee any issues getting them field stripped. I'll replace all the fasteners with stainless socket head cap and pan head bolts. They will take a few trips through the ultrasonic cleaner, and have that ugly angle iron replaced with a nice piece of drilled aluminum. I'll most likely drill the slides and throw some lighter springs in to improve throttle response.
 
Please give info how you do it
It would be interesting to know how a more experienced man separates them --and so on
Come to think of it .If the screw heads are drilled off there will be a stump sticking out on which a Hexagon nut can be welded
And getting a solid hold for loosening
 
Please give info how you do it
It would be interesting to know how a more experienced man separates them --and so on
Come to think of it .If the screw heads are drilled off there will be a stump sticking out on which a Hexagon nut can be welded
And getting a solid hold for loosening
I'll create a thread about the rebuild.
 
Yeah, I'm no stranger to getting old beat up carbs apart. I don't foresee any issues getting them field stripped. I'll replace all the fasteners with stainless socket head cap and pan head bolts. They will take a few trips through the ultrasonic cleaner, and have that ugly angle iron replaced with a nice piece of drilled aluminum. I'll most likely drill the slides and throw some lighter springs in to improve throttle response.
I got extra angle irons. Heat is your friend, it'll soften whatever they used for locktite on those screws. The Milwaukee M18 5/16" impact drivers that they sell in the sets will zip those right out. with the proper technique ie lids removed, carbs upside down on a concrete floor you firmly in control and bearing down on the driver. Can't wait to see pics!
 
I got extra angle irons. Heat is your friend, it'll soften whatever they used for locktite on those screws. The Milwaukee M18 5/16" impact drivers that they sell in the sets will zip those right out. with the proper technique ie lids removed, carbs upside down on a concrete floor you firmly in control and bearing down on the driver. Can't wait to see pics!
Thanks Gary! I've actually got a couple of extra angle iron carb braces laying around from projects past. But I think I'm going to make a flat piece of alloy with some speed holes and radiused ends to replace the lower brace on these. These are going on my bobber and will be much more visible than they would on my 80. So I will take every effort to make em look a little better than the factory did. I've got a set of Snap-On screw drivers that are extra bitey and have a 3/8 hex bolster on the shank, I can put a lot of down force on em while I gently rotate em with a open end wrench while I have clamped between 2x4's on the bench. They work every time 60% of the time :D. I'll most likely be ditching the tee by tapping the carb bodies for screw in SS O-ring elbows, Im running 2 petcocks.
 
I'll most likely drill the slides and throw some lighter springs in to improve throttle response.

I’ve never seen this done before, this will reduce the effect of the diaphragms eh? I’m curious to see how you do this.

I'll create a thread about the rebuild.

Yes please! :popcorn:
 
Thanks Gary! I've actually got a couple of extra angle iron carb braces laying around from projects past. But I think I'm going to make a flat piece of alloy with some speed holes and radiused ends to replace the lower brace on these. These are going on my bobber and will be much more visible than they would on my 80. So I will take every effort to make em look a little better than the factory did. I've got a set of Snap-On screw drivers that are extra bitey and have a 3/8 hex bolster on the shank, I can put a lot of down force on em while I gently rotate em with a open end wrench while I have clamped between 2x4's on the bench. They work every time 60% of the time :D. I'll most likely be ditching the tee by tapping the carb bodies for screw in SS O-ring elbows, Im running 2 petcocks.
I keep a couple of new pairs of Vise Grips (regular and needle nose) in the tool box for stubborn screws. With an exposed head and heat if needed, 99% of the time you can crack them loose. Damages the heads tho so only good if you’re replacing the fastener or don't care what it looks like.
 
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