True indeed - and I will likely have white or near-white walls and ceiling with a somewhat darker floor that is mono-coloured so that I can find the many 10mm sockets I will drop on it over the years.
P
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Real Estate Update
- Thread starter Downeaster
- Start date
I hope those years are many.
Without them slick epoxy will be the death of you.
Hands and knees with a flashlight....
I plan to use one of those grainy surface additives to make it non-slip - but the colour of the floor will be monotone so that I can see the many things that I will inevitably drop on it.
P
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To clarify, I didn't imply gritless, just not those decorative flecks, solid color with grit is fine
Yup -that is where I am headed.
QUESTIONS:
1) anybody know how long after the floor has been poured do I need to wait before moving forward with the coating?
2) any tips as to a good brand of coating to use?
3) any other tips on applying such a coating to the floor?
If you're expoxying the floor, avoid too smooth a surface. It gets lethally slick when coolant or oil lies on it and you don't notice
<edit> I should have read the last page before replying.
There is no way to delete a reply.
<edit> I should have read the last page before replying.
There is no way to delete a reply.
I recently installed a spiral stair kit to a deck extension I had added to my upstairs porch. The parts came black powder coat, here in the south they would be uncomfortably hot in summer and slick when wet.
I painted them with white Rustoleum and while wet scattered play sand on them as I went, top to bottom step in order. When dry I applied a second coat to cover and seal the grit to the step.
I imagine you could do the same with the epoxy, gritting as you go, I was going to use a small hand crank operated seed spreader similar to attached link but the steps were small enough I just scattered by hand.
https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Powered...wicXNhIjoiMy4wMSIsInFzcCI6IjIuNjgifQ==&sr=8-2
I painted them with white Rustoleum and while wet scattered play sand on them as I went, top to bottom step in order. When dry I applied a second coat to cover and seal the grit to the step.
I imagine you could do the same with the epoxy, gritting as you go, I was going to use a small hand crank operated seed spreader similar to attached link but the steps were small enough I just scattered by hand.
https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Powered...wicXNhIjoiMy4wMSIsInFzcCI6IjIuNjgifQ==&sr=8-2
Yup - something like that but I think they can mix it at the paint store for more even coverage.
I will definitely have some grit in the paint.
P
I will definitely have some grit in the paint.
P
I gritted the surfaces of my bike ramp ramps. One heavy coat of exterior red paint (that kind of masonry stuff) and sprinkled with building sand. Iirc, I put another light coat on top to seal the sand in.
After pouring my polebarn floor, I waited 30 days, then used a concrete etching you can get at home depot. Power washed the floor afterward. Let it dry another 3-4 days, then I used this product called "Rocksolid" from Rustoleum. Note they also sell a clear coat 2 part epoxy to help protect the grey epoxy, but I didn't like how the clearcoat made the surface look. I quit clearcoating after doing one corner section. It yellowed over time, while the rest of the floor still looks great. This 2 part epoxy is tough. I've even spilled aircraft paint remover on it and wiped it up after a couple of minutes and it didn't bubble at all. Gas and oil won't hurt it one bit. I will say that it doesn't cover near as much as advertised, and I had a couple areas where air bubbles formed. I called Rustoleum direct to voice my concern and they sent me enough to re-cover the trouble spots and enough to finish the rest of the floor, at no additional cost. It's not cheap but was impressed how they stood behind their product. I did use the flakes....and it is difficult to find anything you drop like everyone stated, but I knew that going in. I wanted it to look good.
Just let me come up and spray it with my Sata, I'm good at getting non skid finishes on hoods and roofs.
Hey @Grimly and @2XSive - thanks for the suggestions! I will check that Rustoleum stuff out for sure.
@46thGeorgia - c'mon up and bring your sprayer! The barn is only 800 sf. but we've got good beer up here and so some sittin' around could also be in order.
....and the Town of Essex paid a visit on Wednesday and the barn passed its final inspection. So, its now all-clear to finish the interior!
Pete
@46thGeorgia - c'mon up and bring your sprayer! The barn is only 800 sf. but we've got good beer up here and so some sittin' around could also be in order.
....and the Town of Essex paid a visit on Wednesday and the barn passed its final inspection. So, its now all-clear to finish the interior!
Pete
Yes, it can get a bit slick when wet. They make a packet of abrasive you can mix in, but I opted not to use it. It hasn't been an issue and I like how I can easily squeegy the floor. Biggest "hazard" I've encountered is when I pull my truck in during foul weather....need to be careful stepping out.
Hmmmm....with my knee replacement I'll be using that abrasive stuff. When you have an unstable knee or hip, slipping is quite a scary thing.
Thanks for the info!
As for lights, I think I will go with these - somewhere around 6 of the 21,000 lumen units ought to do and I will also mix the 4000K and 5000K lights as done in the video.
Pete
....and I asked Hyperlites for their recommendations (free - just email them) and this came back about 25 minutes later!
_________________________________________________
Hi Peter,
Welcome to Hyperlite! We made a lighting simulation, based on the information you provided.
You need 6pcs 100w Hero Series (4000K or 5000K according to your preference). You can review the attached pictures for more details.
The lighting simulations are just for your reference, you can adjust them according to the real situation. To have more information about our products or if you want to complete your order, please visit:
https://hi-hyperlite.com/products/led-high-bay-light-hero-black-4000k
And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us back.
Regards,
Hyperlite Support Service.
sales@hi-hyperlite.com | www.hi-hyperlite.com |
Choosing Hyperlite is choosing premier lighting and the ultimate service.
_________________________________________________
Hi Peter,
Welcome to Hyperlite! We made a lighting simulation, based on the information you provided.
You need 6pcs 100w Hero Series (4000K or 5000K according to your preference). You can review the attached pictures for more details.
The lighting simulations are just for your reference, you can adjust them according to the real situation. To have more information about our products or if you want to complete your order, please visit:
https://hi-hyperlite.com/products/led-high-bay-light-hero-black-4000k
And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us back.
Regards,
Hyperlite Support Service.
sales@hi-hyperlite.com | www.hi-hyperlite.com |
Choosing Hyperlite is choosing premier lighting and the ultimate service.
Hey Pete,
I'll offer up my thoughts and experience for what its worth...
- let your cement cure for as long as you can... minimum 28 days (which I believe is what it takes for a full hardness cure to occur)
- My theory goes like this...concrete is very porous and therefore readily absorbs liquids if not sealed. I believe that the best approach is to use a product that is very liquid (as opposed to viscous) that dries slowly. I would not use any "coating" that sits on the surface of the slab, just waiting to chip off!
-I use the most basic floor enamel that I thin with basic mineral spirits/varsol about 60/40 or 50/50 until I get a water-like consistently. This then gets applied with a heavy-nap roller very crudely. It will all get soaked up by the cement, embedding itself in the porous surface. Keep applying until it no longer soaks in. You can then top-coat it if you like with a final coat of undiluted enamel with some grit in it.
Thanks for the website info
I've heard good revews about them and now I have the website
I'm using the LED spotlights now in fixtures which also have a plug in socket so moving up will be easy
Are you installing an outlet so you can put a garage door opener in ?
I just installed the outlets for both overhead doors so when I'm sick of opening them by hand I can use the opener or I could keep a remote on the bike and ride right in like the Bat Cave
Edit: and as far as lighting or anything else you get what you paid for so a few bucks upfront especially with their warranty you will get a quality product
If you go with an epoxy as a DIY job, be especially mindful of the fumes. A NIOSH approved 3 stage respirator would be in order.
