Restoring 1981 XS650 as my first bike!

[Gunnar]

Hello everyone,

I have recently became an owner of 1981 XS650! I bought this bike as a side project from my friend's acquaintance. The bike has been originally found on the junkyard and was bought out for a nominal price. My friend's acquaintance was able to get the bike starting and running, but that's as far as he got.

I bought the bike off him since he didn't have time to work on it anymore and now it's my turn to give it some more tender loving care.

There is a lot that has to be done to this bike before I will be satisfied, but main things are:

1. Exhaust pipes need to be changed. They are all rusted and blown
2. Throttle grip needs to be replaced
3. Clutch lever needs to be replaced as it is very stiff and seems not to be from this bike.
4. Change the wiring harness
5. Turn signals and mirrors added
6. New battery
7. Change as many gaskets that I can reach without completely taking engine appart
8. Bunch of other small things such as, oil/filters (primary and secondary) changed, break pads changed and so on.


Again, that's my first bike that I own. I know almost nothing about bikes, so it should be a fun and educational journey! If all goes well - I hope to take this bad boy on the road in a month or two!

Here are some pictures of when I bought it and what it seems it's first bath in forever!

Regards,

Gunars

 

[650Skull]

Don't take any thing apart or change things until your sure you know what you are doing.

Clutch pull is notoriously hard but with the right applications there is a fix.

If the harness is basically ok then it would be advisable to use the harness and learn to trouble shoot and check electrical components. If it has been running then members here will help you through any problems now and any that may arise as you go through this.

Tech menu has all the answers to any question and problems, there are tutorials on most things, especially electrics.

Here is a link that has a lot of information for the beginner. Important to read through the links that pertain to an area your working on.

The important thing is patience, if you can get the bike running then any cosmetic or other change can be done wile you have a running machine and it will make it easier when you decide to take it off the road to do whatever your planning................ Because you will already know your XS650.

 

[oldcoal]

Why replace gasket etc till you know what it really needs. The old saying goes don't fix it unless sit need to be fixed or you sure as heck will need to fix it. I 2 own a 1981 XS650 and got it for a buck a CC. Ran when I got it but that was all you could say it did. Had to be choked to run and would not take any throttle. Cleaned up the carbs and it runs well now. Hope that the weather gets better because I'd love to take it for a ride soon. Ya it did also need tires and a battery but for $650 I figure it was a good buy. That all said been riding scooter for 45 years now. If your not a true biker you maybe not understand that term

 

[pcoumbe]

Hey Gunnar, listen to the advice on offer from these guys. Too many projects get started and end up going in the wrong direction or just stop.
Get your bike running and make it reliable and safe. Forget cosmetics, that will come later. Ride it in all conditions for a year or so then you will know exactly where you want to go with it and what it needs and how much it will cost to get it there.
Hope you enjoy it.

 

[Gunnar]

Thanks for the advice guys! Here are some things that I though of addressing!

Don't take any thing apart or change things until your sure you know what you are doing.

I agree with that. I do extensive research before I invest my time and money into something. That is why I joined this forum which has a lot of DIYs here. I am going to read through them before I will attempt something. This was just the list of possible things to do over the next year after I get the bike on the road.

If the harness is basically ok then it would be advisable to use the harness and learn to trouble shoot and check electrical components. If it has been running then members here will help you through any problems now and any that may arise as you go through this.

I did get bike to start with both electrical starter and kick-starter. Problem is, that break/driving light doesn't work anymore. (it was when I bought the bike)
Also I didn't see any connectors for the turning signals and as a beginner rider I feel a need of having them. Also, who knows how long was it sitting outside in the rain before it got to me. So I thought it's a good idea to replace it with a new harness instead of troubleshooting the old one.

Clutch pull is notoriously hard but with the right applications there is a fix.

Clutch is really tough comparing to other bikes I tried. Lever is also very short in comparison to the break lever. I can only get 3 fingers on it. I was thinking about buying a new lever which should solve the issue?
Bike was catching the clutch before when not in gear, but I was able to adjust a cable and now it seems to work fine. Just very tough.

Get your bike running and make it reliable and safe.

That's the top priority. I think after I will replace break pads - it will be good to take on the road! The bike rides very well especially after an oil change that I gave it. (So much sludge came out it.) The idea is to ride it and work on it at the same time. Luckily, I have a car so it's not my only means of transportation!

This exhaust has to go though. these are just straight megaphone pipes and they will make me deaf! So this is the next big thing to do!

 

[oldcoal]

On the clutch handle you should be able to get your whole hand on it if not then it maybe broken off or some one installed an incorrect one on it. As for the cable lube it up good. I have found ATF works real well and both lube and cleans the cable up

 

[Gunnar]

So I have an exhaust question. It's a 2 into 2 cone shaped exhaust for 1981, which seems like had one part of it fallen off and then welded back on. It also has no baffles in it. It seems they have been crudely broken out of there because I still see residual metal from where they should have been. So the pipes are extremely loud.

Ultimately I want it replaced, but I currently don't want to invest a lot of money into a new exhaust and would be content with current one if it wasn't that damn loud. Is there a way to put baffles back in there somehow without buying new exhaust system?

I just hate being that guy with obnoxiously loud pipes...

 

[oldcoal]

Yes you can install baffles if you can find some that is. BTDT many times over the years and have even made my own from pipe and drilled holes in the pipe then weld it in

 

[scabber]

Hope you got a title for it. Some states are harder than others to get tags. With a little work it will be a good ride.

 

[fredintoon]

So I have an exhaust question. It's a 2 into 2 cone shaped exhaust for 1981, which seems like had one part of it fallen off and then welded back on. It also has no baffles in it. It seems they have been crudely broken out of there because I still see residual metal from where they should have been. So the pipes are extremely loud.

Ultimately I want it replaced, but I currently don't want to invest a lot of money into a new exhaust and would be content with current one if it wasn't that damn loud. Is there a way to put baffles back in there somehow without buying new exhaust system?

I just hate being that guy with obnoxiously loud pipes...

Hi Gunnar,
you could see if MikesXS part#07-0115 would do:-
https://www.mikesxs.net/products-44.html#products
Or as a part-way fix, saw the dead mufflers off and adapt a pair of slip-on mufflers to the stock double wall headers using Pamco Pete's exhaust adapter sleeve trick to be sure the slip-ons connect to the headers' inner pipe.

 

[Gunnar]

Hope you got a title for it. Some states are harder than others to get tags. With a little work it will be a good ride.

I live in Florida, this state doesn't even care if I have a Cat on my car. And I have a title for it already, so I can just ride it like it is. I just don't want to be a Florida man.

 

[650Skull]

the headers are original, Special double walled pipes. the mufflers, (for the want of a better word), have been added on.

Buying a half decent set of muffles isn't much of a cost and the headers can be cleaned up later or just use some wrap. Wrap will rust pipes over time.

An old trick but lasts a little while. Cut the muffles off, (being careful not to cut the header pipe), get some chicken wire and roll op a 6"-8" long piece and cram uo the header pipe. Has to be a tight enough role as to act as a baffle. I drilled a hole in the end if the header and and used a nail bent over to hold in the wire. Done this to my 500 4 Honda and around town and just cruising it was quiet enough to be normal, but winding it out was a different matter.

This is a temporary measure only and you may need to adjust the carbs to suit

 

[ctxv920rh]

My experience is not with XS650s but fwiw
If the head pipes are good and you can find someone to add mounting tabs or fabricate mounting clamps Harley takeoff muffers and Ducati Monster mufflers show up on ebay and craigslist occasionally very cheap.
Won a pair of 883 mufflers $29 shipped.
I distrusted my 81 front brake lines and had dual discs, used Yamaha 2007 star lines were $11 shipped. slightly long for me but right price.
Another website recommends cheap copy Aprillia Tuono mirrors, ebay or amazon.
If you need longer stems there are BMW R100 mirror copies on amazon.
Bridgestone BT45 tires have been recommended to me. Amazon has Shinko tires, 712 and 230 for much less.
Go with O-ring chain.
If you go with small bulb or LED turn signals best to switch to a modern LED friendly blinker relay instead of stock load/heat one.
Some people find ATV bars comfortable, usually cheaper than motorcycle bars.

 

[650Skull]

Amazon has Shinko tires, 712 and 230 for much less.
.

There is no guarantee that the tires bought off the internet are not out of date. Buying from your local dealer gives you a guarantee

 

[Gunnar]

Thanks for the advice guys!

Tires are still in good shape. I can change them later, and the price is not that much of a worry. I trust in quality tires and it's the last thing I'm going to try to save on, especially if there are only 2 wheels instead of 4 touching the road.

I will get new chain in about 1000 miles or so. It's on my list, but not urgent. I just adjusted it and it seems that it has enough life left in it and sprockets are in decent shape.

Small update:

Bought turn signals and new fenders, as well as got my eyes on 2-into-2 full exhaust. I think it's an easier solution, because if I will buy just mufflers I will have a shop to do work for me to cut old manifold pipes off and attach new mufflers. So might as well just buy a good used set if it's cheap.

I have had some issues with starting my bike recently, but after checking the spark-plugs I found that they all were black and dirty and worn out. I replaced them with new ones and it started right up! I am a bit worried that old spark plugs were oily so I might have a problem with a gasket - but I am not jumping to any conclusions yet.

Next time I will have some free time I'm going to adjust the cam chain tensioner, then check the valve gaps and adjust the timing and then start working on my carburetors.

Thanks - I'm going to update this thread more when I get some more work done. As a person who never worked on bikes, I am amused on how easy it is access all the parts on the engine without taking it apart. Great engineering!

Oh and bike got registered so I can finally take it on the road!

 

[ctxv920rh]

I have never gotten other then recent tires from Amazon. Their return policy is very good (at least with prime, which I have, and usually you can use as a trial).
I prefer to run premium tires. For my bike
BT45s are $ 225.32 a pair plus tax
Shinko 712 are $104.90 a pair plus tax
Shinko 230 are $133.45 a pair plus tax
Feed back on amazon and several on line sellers is good

My bike runs tubeless, so I can change my own tires and static balance, which is fine for these bikes

Spoke wheeled 650s, unless you have dirt bike tire change experience, is a much more difficult choice.
The tires on my bike are 20+ years old, I am over budget, and I will need street time to "prove" engine is good. So spending $90 or $120 less for now is tempting. I've never done enough tube tires to trust myself with tubes. Old wheels I can inspect bead area for scratches to sand out. Most dealers do not bother.
Shinko, a Japanese Co. purchased Yokohama motorcycle tech and molds in 1998. Their dual sport tire and race track tires are well respected. Design is in Japan, production is in Korea.

 

[XSLeo]

20+ year old tires? They are an accident waiting to happen. I wouldn't run them for any amount of money.
I've been changing my own tires most of my life. A tire changer from Harbor Freight, around $60 does car tires, Then the motor cycle adapter that goes on it is another $50 or so. Get several sets of tire irons. Get a set of small irons, Many are about ( inches long. Get a set of the longer ones 12 to 14 inches. These will let you mount most any tire.
As far as rubes go it's been a long time since I pinched a tube. Except for last time on my Harley rear tire. I pinched it in 4 or 5 places. I don't know why. I put in the next tube no problems.
If you haven't done it much, you tube has lots of video's on how to.
Dyna Beads for balance. The tires not only run smoother they last longer.
Leo

 

[Gunnar]

So I wanted to do a small update on what has been done to the bike.

Carburetors were taken out and cleaned. I used rebuild kits from Mike's XS. I also got new mounts for the carbs and new air filters. Air filters were terrible on the bike, full of sand and dirt and oil.

I have also replaced the exhaust with the one I bought on this forum and it fit really well. I can now turn my bike without waking up the entire neighborhood.

I have put on a newer license plate holder which actually has working light in and I can ride at night if I want to. I replaced the back fender since the previous was rusty, beaut up and cracked.

I got a new lever appropriate size clutch lever and lubed the clutch cable. Now, even though it is a bit stiff, I have a full hand grip and control of my clutch.

I have changed both of oil filters with Mike's XS new parts and replaced the gaskets. I have bought a reinforced sump filter and put it in there. I don't think these filters were ever changed. The sump filter had multiple holes in it and was covered in metal flakes and metal oil grime.

There was enough metal shavings that it makes me worried about the state of my gears. I will post pictures later, maybe you guys will have a comment about it.

I have also replaced the gasket on the sump pan. However, I messed up when I was putting bolts back in. I knew that bolts need to be handled gently, but I didn't have a torque wrench on hand. So I over tightened the bolts after finding a small leak in the gasket and broke my bolts off.

I know it is a very common occurrence. I still have a significant leak and I am going to buy new bolts at Lowe's today and try to reseal it. I really hope that part of the bolt is still sticking out of the engine block. I really don't want to drill it.

Apart from an oil pan I am currently trying to figure out the wiring system to put turn signals on. I also took apart the relay which control the headlight, turn signals and horn apart and it was all full of junk from over the years of sitting outside with previous owner. I am cleaning it up and will reassemble.


Can anyone help me with the schematics of how to connect the turn signals? I can't seem to figure it out right away. Also, I hope that these oil sump bolts will not be a complete pain in the arse.

Regards,

Gunnar

 

[Vlad]

Woot! I love the Ukrainian color scheme!

Congrats on the bike man, this is a cool project! This wiring diagram should help you:

Get a torque wrench! haha. Hopefully you didn't strip the case.

 

[650Skull]

Over tightening the sump bolts and striping the heads off can pull on the case and you will need to check that the surface is flat. Hold a small straight edge against the case and over the bolt hols. It there is some protrusion then take to it lightly with a file being careful not to damage the surface.