Solid state regulator rectifier draw

[Jtcrash]

Hey guys. I don't have much hair left to pull out. Looked all over this site to try to find a similar problem to no avail. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible.
1979 xs 650 bobber: stock eng with points, pod filters, open headers, green monster coils. Deleted turn signals, and simplified wiring harness
Here's the issue. I installed a solid state regulator rectifier. And wired it as according to the supplied instructions to the letter. All soldered joints and heat shrinked everything. (I'm a bit of a perfectionist). My problem is the blue(from the solid state) / brown(from ignition) is drawing current instead of monitoring and telling the box how much I need to charge. When I unhook it from the ignition it does ok but the second I hook it back up it pulls current like a mofo and kills the battery. My grounds are good and I can't find any thing out of the norm.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance guys

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Disconnect the green wire from the alternator brush, and test your current draw again...

 

[retiredgentleman]

That blue/brown connection is more than just monitoring. That connection is the current supply to the rotor. The rotor normally draws about 2.1 amps with the engine idling at 1200 rpm, and drops down to about 1 amp at 3000+ rpm.

You could have either a very weak battery or your rotor is partially shorted out.

You should remove the brushes and measure the resistance from one slip ring to the other slip ring. Expected resistance is approximately 5 to 6 ohms. Also measure resistance from either slip ring to the frame of the rotor...................that should be a very high resistance (infinity).

 

[Jtcrash]

Ok. I've done as advised above and all checks out. In fact I popped off the tank, rechecked every wire including the grounds to be sure and ohmed it out for continuity. Wanted to be sure it wasn't an old wire or something. I also emailed mikes xs aka xs650 direct in Ontario they had suggested I check all the wires. So if mikes says it's the wiring and my tech says it's something with the reg/rec. I'm in a catch 22 with a blown budget and a really expensive flower planter. What do I do here? I don't wanna give up but I'm taking a financial and mental beating here. WTF! PLEASE SOMEBODY TAKE PITTY ON ME!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Ok. I've done as advised above and all checks out...

What does that mean?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Ok. I've done as advised above and all checks out. In fact I popped off the tank, rechecked every wire including the grounds to be sure and ohmed it out for continuity. Wanted to be sure it wasn't an old wire or something. I also emailed mikes xs aka xs650 direct in Ontario they had suggested I check all the wires. So if mikes says it's the wiring and my tech says it's something with the reg/rec. I'm in a catch 22 with a blown budget and a really expensive flower planter. What do I do here? I don't wanna give up but I'm taking a financial and mental beating here. WTF! PLEASE SOMEBODY TAKE PITTY ON ME!

Your first mistake was not coming on the site and asking for suggestions before spending big bucks at mikesxs. We can direct you to some very inexpensive and simple solutions to charging problems.

As 2M is saying...........................you have to give us more specific and factual information or we can't help you.

OK lets go back to my statement from a previous post:

quote:" You should remove the brushes and measure the resistance from one slip ring to the other slip ring. Expected resistance is approximately 5 to 6 ohms. Also measure resistance from either slip ring to the frame of the rotor...................that should be a very high resistance (infinity)."

Tell us what you measured.

 

[Jtcrash]

I measured slip ring to slip ring and it fluctuates. 1.2-23 ohm without the solid state blue/brown(original wiring harness) with it connected: 1.5-10.6. Can't get a reading on the windings. What am I doing wrong? Shouldn't these be solid readings? Minimal fluctuation?

 

[retiredgentleman]

I measured slip ring to slip ring and it fluctuates. 1.2-23 ohm without the solid state blue/brown(original wiring harness) with it connected: 1.5-10.6. Can't get a reading on the windings. What am I doing wrong? Shouldn't these be solid readings? Minimal fluctuation?

Make sure you are using the lowest ohm scale on your meter to measure from slip ring to slip ring. Do this with both brushes removed.

If your VOM has cheap poor quality meter leads, they can give readings that wander. You would need to buy higher quality meter leads.

You could also borrow a different (higher quality) VOM from a friend or relative.

 

[grizld1]

Crash, I had the same issue with a solid state reg/rec from Electrosport; it was bad out of the box. Electrosport gives a 1 year warranty but I didn't bother with that; wouldn't have trusted the replacement. rg, the man didn't write anything about where he bought the item, but Mike's/650 Direct isn't the only source for Chinese junk!

 

[Jtcrash]

That's it! I've had t with this system! For the money I'm gonna drop in techs and tools and time spent f'n about here. I'm gonna spend the amount for a pma system. So before I just grab the first thing that fits. Any recommendations from the senior guys?

 

[retiredgentleman]

That's it! I've had t with this system! For the money I'm gonna drop in techs and tools and time spent f'n about here. I'm gonna spend the amount for a pma system. So before I just grab the first thing that fits. Any recommendations from the senior guys?

A PMA system is not the answer to your problems. Most of the PMA systems are made in China/Taiwan and are mass produced in a factory which has no quality control. There are many threads, even some in the last few days, that have unhappy lads who bought PMA systems. The poorly made systems overheat and melt components. If you priced them you know they are very expensive.

I have tried to explain to you how to test your rotor, but I can't help you if you are unable to make a few simple tests. You say you have seen readings as low as 1.2 or 1.5 ohms. That means your rotor is likely shorted out and needs replacement or a rewind. That also agrees with a high current draw you have seen.

I still recommend you get a relative or friend, with a different VOM perhaps, to make some tests for you. I want to tell you to buy a new rotor, but I hesitate to say that, if you can't do a correct test of the rotor resistance. If you have an electronics store in your area, go and buy a 5 ohm resistor (or two 10 ohm resistors connected in parallel) and use your ohm meter to measure the resistor as a test of your meter.

The original Japanese made alternators were of very high quality. Of course after all these years, they are failing, but their longevity is amazing. I am still using a stock OEM alternator that is 38 years old.

Lifespan of a Chinese alternator......................could be very short. Caveat Emptor.

 

[Jtcrash]

In the most respectful way. Talking down to someone asking a question without having all info is rude. I'm a newbie but not ignorant and stupid. I followed your advice and borrowed my fathers multi meter who is an aircraft mechanic. So that's two meters with varying results. I've looked around locally and found no mechanics worth their weight for wiring. No one will touch this bike due to the fact that yammys are not factory v twins. There are no custom shops locally either. Please refrain from being condescending. I'm trying my best here

 

[Jtcrash]

My stock rectifier has the green death as well as frayed and burnt wires and connectors. Parts aren't overly available up here at a decent price in decent shape. I need aftermarket quality stuff.

 

[Jtcrash]

If mikes xs/650 direct in Canada is low quality. Isn't Hugh's handbuilt American made?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Quote:

"I followed your advice and borrowed my fathers multi meter who is an aircraft mechanic. So that's two meters with varying results."

Its still unclear what you are saying. What resistance did your father's meter actually measure? If you give us an actual number, we can tell you if your rotor is good or bad.

Quote:

"My stock rectifier has the green death as well as frayed and burnt wires and connectors. Parts aren't overly available up here at a decent price in decent shape. I need aftermarket quality stuff."

Yes, the original rectifiers are well overdue for replacement. Inexpensive 25 amp or 35 amp 3 phase rectifiers with heat sinks attached are readily available on E-bay. They cost less than $10.00.

Quote:

"If mikes xs/650 direct in Canada is low quality. Isn't Hugh's handbuilt American made?"

No, I think you'll find his electrical parts are all from China/Taiwan, and similar to XS650 Direct, they are low quality parts.

Quote:

"I've looked around locally and found no mechanics worth their weight for wiring. No one will touch this bike due to the fact that yammys are not factory v twins. There are no custom shops locally either."

Something you need to know. These old bikes are mainly suitable for mechanically and electrically inclined people. You need to learn to do the repairs yourself. The average motorcycle shop today does not want to work on these old bikes. Even if you found a tech guy to do the work, the hourly rate would cost you a small fortune.

This web site is probably your best source of knowledge you will find on the XS650. The members are more than willing to help you sort out any problems.

If your rotor is good or you buy a replacement rotor, we can direct you to a thread with all the details that use a nos automotive regulator such as the VR-115. Also very inexpensive and quite reliable.