Starter motor seal is fused to case

Krogh

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Hello,
Since it’s raining buckets in the PNW these days, I figured I’d fix the leak coming from the starter motor. Engine is in frame. I have everything pulled off and access to both sides. The issue I’ve got is that sucker is really stuck on there - I have picked, scratched and scraped with various solvents but it’s a real mess. I’m wondering how to get it all off!? One idea I have is to get a mini butane torch and try and heat it up and maybe that would loosen things up?

Any advice is much appreciated!

Thanks
Marty
 
Use as large a diameter metal punch as you have and tap around the edge of the metal ring. Slow going but it'll work it's way out.
 
Hi Marty,
like they all said, no naked flames! And you don't want the old one, right?
So it's OK to destroy it during removal if that's what it takes.
 
I have in the pass.... used my auto rear axle seal..slide hammer....had to make end to work on the motorcycle seal... didn't take much or..long time... the end flips inside... then it lays against the edges of the seal.... in two places.. then hammer away.....
 
It looks like the steel ring has a lip on it, on the outer, starter side. If you could grab on that with vice grips you could probably collapse the ring in towards the center of the hole. That would relieve all the pressure holding it in and it should practically fall right out.
 
Okay thank you all for the input. I didn’t realize there was a metal ring in there as well. I’m assuming then that once that is out I can reuse it? I have a new rubber seal with a little circular spring inside.
 
The metal ring is part of the seal. The rubber is fused to it. Drive it out and the new seal has it's own metal ring.
 
Yes, the metal ring is built into the seal. You won't need it again hence the suggestion to try and collapse it into itself.
 
From your photos it looks like you have access to both sides of the case. If so use a small drift/flat punch and slowly work your way and tap the steel backing ring out. Others are correct, the rubber part of the seal is bonded to the ring. Putting the new one in you'll want to make sure you get it in squarely without damaging the seal lip. A large socket. about the same OD as the metal ring and a mallet has generally worked for me when I didn't have access to a press.
Just be careful not to damage the case. The seal is cheap and easily replaceable, the case not so much.
 
The easiest way to install this seal is to place it on the starter motor and use that to push it into place.
 
Thanks Jim! I didn’t know that metal ring was built in to it and I never really gave my new seal a good look/feel.

I just went out to the garage and popped that baby right out - super easy.

Appreciate all you guys!
 
The hole in the case for the seal has very sharp edges or outer corners. Bevel that off slightly or it may cut into the O.D. of your new seal as you push it in. Also, usually you oil or grease the O.D. of a new seal to ease pressing it in and it's fitment. Instead, put some gasket sealer on it. This will act just like oil or grease and lube the seal for install but has the added bonus of helping seal it into the hole better .....

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You should apply both these tips to pretty much every seal on the bike. Almost all of them have the sharp edged holes than need beveling.
 
Thanks Jim! I didn’t know that metal ring was built in to it and I never really gave my new seal a good look/feel.

I just went out to the garage and popped that baby right out - super easy.

Appreciate all you guys!
Good deal... and make sure you put the new seal in oriented correctly. The open (spring) side goes where the oil is. That is, outboard, toward the left side of the motor.
 
You can use a small, sharp pocket knife or a de-burring tool to just "break" the sharp edge of the hole, just round it off a little. But yes, I suppose you could use some sandpaper, I just think the little knife is easier.
 
A copper pipe reamer would probably do the trick. Aluminum is softer than copper. Just don't put a terrible amount of pressure.
 
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