XS650 Top End Buildup

Sorry about the quality of the picture. The pins are plain and the ends are too. As far as my old eyes can tell. I had expected a stepped pin to positively locate the plate.

I've removed the link from the chain but still can't get the pins into the holes 😞.

Maybe I'll contact Heiden, who supplied it. They seem very well informed, and helpful

I was hoping to get the engine back in the frame this weekend.
The chain breaker/riveter tool many of us use comes with press plates to press the master link plate on. You may need that .....

Cam Chain Rivet Tool2.jpg

If you don't have this tool, I highly recommend getting one. You can find them all over eBay for less than $20 ......


The quality of the breaking and riveting pins may not be the greatest but you can "upgrade" the tool by buying replacement pins from Motion Pro .....



But honestly, I rarely use this tool for breaking the chain, only riveting the master link. If you grind the heads off the pins on the chain, the side plate usually easily pries off, so no need for the breaker .....

Ground Link-Small.jpg

And yes, the ends of the master link pins usually are stepped .....


This only allows the side plate to go on so far, so the link width isn't too tight.
You may also gain a little wiggle room if you tighten down the top a bit - I use to add a couple of sleeves on the four studs that are closest to the cam chain and span it down evenly by use of a torque wrench ( don’t tighten it too much as you do not want to compress the gasket fully until you are ready for the actual top cover.
Thanks again for all the great help. I'm in the UK, so I was in bed.
I've removed the link from the chain and I can't get either of the pins into either hole. So I don't think that the problem is due to misalignment.
Measured with my digital caliper. The holes are 2.55mm diameter and the pins are 2.60mm.
I did attempt to use a g clamp that looks very similar to the tool pictured to press the plate on. It felt like I was going to damage something.
Interestingly the chain is DID. But the master link doesn't look like the one pictured.
I've emailed Heiden tuning to see if they can help.
I've been doing some research on rivet pins.
Apparently there are two types; hollow head, which also have a step to locate the plate. And solid pin which don't have a step.
DID also make a heavy duty riveting tool. Which I assume is required for the solid pin. Maybe it's more suitable for use on the bench. Rather than whilst fiddling around on the cam sprocket.
Interestingly Heiden tuning seem to sell the hollow point and Yambits the solid one.
It's worth bearing in mind if you buy the Heiden kit. Maybe buy a spare rivet link as well.
I've found a hollow point that's suitable for the chain on eBay
Hi Steve, Yambits sell both. The DID link has solid pins and the Morse one hollow. They are out of stock of the Morse chain right now though. Can't speak for Heiden's stock but they are really good people and I've had lots of bit from them over the last few years.
I'll be doing a top end refresh probably next winter and I'm going to go for the Morse chain + link, not least in the hope that my chain tool is better suited to hollow-point links.

I have two chain tools - one for 530 chains (bought that when I replaced the chain on my Ducati) and the other for bicycle chains, I hope one will fit the bill!

Good luck -
Hi Cliff. Thanks for that. Unfortunately I've already got the DID chain. I don't think you can use a morse link with a DID chain.
I've rebuilt the full engine using mainly Heiden, with some Yambits parts. I would recommend both companies.
I had intended to rivet the chain using a centre punch as detailed in the Hans Pahl book.
I've ordered a £5 hollow point DID rivet link from eBay. So just waiting for it to arrive.
I don't think the twisted copper wire I'm currently using will last too long 🤭


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Before you torque the head down, you need to install the two covers where the points and advance mechanism go. The flanges on these are what centers the cam and cam bearings in the head. If you torque the head first, these covers probably won't seat properly and your cam and bearings won't be properly centered. EDIT 2/3/19. For the most accurate cam centering, install the housings without the gaskets and o-rings and tighten. Once you're satisfied they're seated, take 'em back off and install them with the gaskets and o-rings. END EDIT.

To replace the camshaft end seals, press them out and back in with a hyd. press if you have one and a socket just slightly smaller than the seal.

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If you don't have access to a press, use your vise the same way using the socket and a piece of wood...

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As you can see in the next pic, the Tour Max seal kit I used isn't quiet the same as the OEM seals. They're a little thinner.

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New is on the left, OEM on the right. Where the OEM was flush on both sides when installed, the new one will be slightly recessed on the outside (red arrow). Just make sure the inside of the seal is flush with the inside flange after pressing in (red arrow in next pic.).

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Install the gasket and O-ring.....

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.....a drop of blue loctite on the 6 screws (3 per side), and torque the covers into place. Don't forget to add the cone shaped starloc washers to the screws. Not really sure why Yamaha saw fit to use a gasket and O-ring on these...

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If you had the rocker arm shafts out, don't forget to reinstall the plugs first. Now you can go ahead and torque the head as described previously.

The oil tube is next. The union/adapter has a crush washer that needs annealing or replacing.

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You'll need a 22mm crows foot to properly torque this (a 7/8" SAE will also work). Don't forget to put the crows foot 90deg. to the torque wrench so the torque value doesn't change.

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There's two copper crush washers for each banjo bolt.... one between the bolt head and the oil tube and another between the oil tube and the rocker box. Treat them as previously explained.

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The cam chain tensioner is next. I back the tensioner all the way out and then thread it back in a turn or two.

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A light coat of sealant on both sides of the gasket.

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And install the tensioner assembly.

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Once the tensioner is installed, I adjust it in until the pin is recessed about 1/16" to 1/8" (green arrow). Note: This is just for the initial run. After I'm satisfied everything is good on the run, I'll readjust it per the book. Make sure the copper crush washer (red arrow) is either new or annealed and tighten the lock nut down while holding the adjuster. Install a new o-ring in the acorn cap (red arrow) and install it.

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The next step (for me anyway) is to install the engine. Once installed I'll spin it over 'till I get good oil flow showing inside the valve covers. Once I'm happy with that I'll go ahead and adjust the valves and install the valve covers... then the carbs... exhaust.... well, you get the idea. Hope you guys found this helpful.
Hi, great thread, can you just enlighten me on the cam housing inner seals. I see you pushed them in using a vice, socket and block of wood. I get that but the lips on the back of the seal seem to sit a little out at the back in your picture, did you push them a little further when out of vice as I can’t see how you got that result when you squeezed them in in the vice. Sorry probably being a bit dumb but I’m at that stage tomorrow and want to be sure of best results. Also gaskets first then orings? Cheers
I get that but the lips on the back of the seal seem to sit a little out at the back in your picture, did you.....
No, they're just flush. They look that way in the pic because of the bevel on the housing. The bevel lets you look at the side of the seal and that makes it look like it's protruding.
It needs to be flush, otherwise it might interfere with the cam bearing.
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No, they're just flush. They just look that way in the pic because of the bevel on the housing. The bevel lets you look at the side of the seal and that makes it look like it's protruding.
It needs to be flush, otherwise it might interfere with the cam bearing.
Awesome thanks for your swift reply, yeah pic was a bit deceiving cheers
Hi all, there's a couple of torque settings I can't find anywhere in any Haynes or shop manual. Can anyone enlighten me as to the values for these, please?

The bushings for the cam chain guide, technically called guide bar nuts (bottom arrow) have copper crush washers for oil sealing


The oil tube union (I have a 22mm crow's foot doodah):


Apologies to Jim for appropriating his pics! And an update on my thread with lots of pics to follow at some point soon ....

Thanks -
Not really an Answer .But this looks as Pipe Couplings . Don't believe they use torques even if given
Was not so on Excavators . The specs from the manufacturer was more like Marketing Numbers
fex Conical Pipe threads Tightening lightly using judgment and experience .If it leaks then tighten some more
Until it stops leaking.
The same for Plumbers.
What wrench style are you referring to? I've got a few different styles of double ended wrenches. New term to me.
@gggis refering to the oil supply end I think. The supply come from the crankcase. The supply tube screws into a fitting and the fitting screws into the crank case. It is important to install the fitting, then hold it with a wrench while you install and tighten the supply tube so that you do not strip the threads in the crankcase.