swing arm pivot shaft (bushing) wont fit into new brass bushings

I have to ask; did you hammer on the ends of the bushings getting them in? They are a light press fit and go in pretty hard. This set up works well to install them. Did you clean the inside of the swing arm well, maybe even some sandpaper till all rust and other gunk was gone?
Was the swing arm powder coated?
swingarm.jpg


You might have to find the proper size reamer and ream them to fit the sleeve. IE take the swing arm and sleeve to a machine shop.
 
lawrgj said:
Hey all, so I cannot seem to get the tube for the swingarm bolt to slide into the new bushings? any ideas?
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with mine. The previous owner put in the brass bushings and must have just pounded the tube into the bushings. Of course they wouldn't pivot properly, as it turns out, the only rotation was the bolt inside of the tube, steel on steel!

Had to cut his bushings out and put in a new pair. Like yours, the tube wouldn't go in easily so I carefully enlarged the bushing hole with a dremel tool, a few thousanths at a time and tried putting in the tube again. Got it where it was snug but movable and haven't had any problems since.

resto
 
thanks so much guys, yes I beat the life out of the bushings getting them in there, how important is it that they are smooth on the crown i put som dings in mine...

I can get them machined...
resto what dremel att did you use...
and as far as i can tell, the pivot tube is ribbed at the end
and the bushings have a spiral pattern in them, if i machine them what happens to what i would assume to be a grease channel?
 
just looked at mikes site where i bought them, under the new pivot shaft there is a note saying that the new shaft fits the bushings....
c'mon, so i wonder 28 bucks for a new shaft or machine shop?

although i am waiting to hear more from resto...
 
ggg gary sorry i didnt answer you,
cleaned out the tube before install,
yes beat them to death,
and no powder coat, and sanded the paint down
 
It would be much easier to get them to work than to take them out at this point. If you only distorted the T end of the bushing then all you have to do is address the distortion at that end of the bushings. Get a half round file and file the inside diameter of only the very end of the bushing where it is mushed until you get a fit. The grease grooves will be fine, filed or not. As long as 70% to 90% of the length of the bushing is a good fit you are fine.

Scott
 
The bushings perform a second function as well, the end face makes side contact and rotates against the inside of the caps when the end gap is correctly set and and the bolt tightened. Just a heads up if the faces are now mashed up.....
 
lawrgj said:
just looked at mikes site where i bought them, under the new pivot shaft there is a note saying that the new shaft fits the bushings....
c'mon, so i wonder 28 bucks for a new shaft or machine shop?

although i am waiting to hear more from resto...
Click to expand...

Attached is a pic of the dremel "sanding drum" (B in the picture) I used. It doesn't have to be a specific size, just so long as it fits in the hole. Work it around evenly and don't take off too much at once. I have also attached a pic of what it should look like when finished. The steel tube MUST stick out a few thou on each side so it can seat against the end caps. When all is bolted together, that steel tube is rigid against the frame, it doesn't rotate. The brass bushing rotates around it.

Along with having to enlarge the bushing hole slightly (yes, I also believed the description on MikesSX), I had to use a flat file on the outer ends of the bushing so that metal tube word protrude slightly. Originally it was flush, and that won't work.

Hope this helps,
dremel drum.jpg
bushing.jpg
 
Thanks guys I just about have it I am just held up on the end a bit (inside each side) due to not sanding deep enough...
however, do I need to file the outside flat face smooth? I have enough shaft sticking out each end but one side got a big ding in it from my bfh
 
I would file any raised edges off the ding so the grease seal doesn't rub on them once assembled.
 
yes I will have to I just got the pivot shaft to slide right in, no play, however I thought it would be long enough and its flush so filing here i come! thanks yall
 
You are probably okay with the 1/32 inch. It was about what mine was. Don't forget that the greater amount sticking out, the more side to side play your swing arm will have. Technically, when done at the factory they inserted shims to match the amount of the tube sticking out, this allowed the brass bushing to not bind against the grease cup and eliminated any side to side play. You may very well have some of those shims already. I didn't, and everything still worked out fine.
 
A long bolt really works well to press them in evenly. I have a bolt type strut spring compressor I use with the ends turned backwards.
0302002128.jpg

I use the same method to get the tapered head races in.
 
Resurrection....So, I put new bronze bushings in, then got the swingarm powdercoated. The bushings were covered with the green heat tape, so they have no powdercoat on them.

The old pivot tube will NOT slide in...I've put the tube in the freezer for 2 days trying to 'shrink' it. From what I understand this tube is supposed to pivot with the bushings staying stationary. Do I really need to buy this? I am thinking there would be quite a bit of grinding/sanding and that might affect the grease grooves.

Suggestions?
 
^I used an auto brake cylinder hone to enlarge it a hair. BTW, don't hone your xs650 brakes - they're aluminum.
 

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