A trick I have not tried.... Heat the parts then drip candle wax at the joint, cooling will draw the wax in.
Been there for 40 years, what's the rush?Did anyone mention time and patience is your friend?
I bought a barn find '67 YR1 about 7 years ago which had badly stuck pistons. After 3 weeks of Kroil oil and PB Blaster, they finally came out.Did anyone mention time and patience is your friend?
Agreed. I was thinking much the same thing about cars. We have a 2011 Subaru Forester that needs control arm bushings. Looked like a simple job. A friend who is a tech at a Subaru dealer warned me that I shouldn’t try to remove the ball joint when replacing the control arm / bushings. Asked why and he said the pinch bolt in the steering knuckle, that holds the ball joint in place, will break off if I try to remove it. He said they get rusted in there and never come out without a major fight. So I was thinking, if that’s an ongoing problem with every Forester sold, what wouldn’t the factory apply a bit of anti seize on that bolt or when the car is in for it’s first oil change, why can’t the tech pop out the bolt and lube it, thereby eliminating a major headache for the future. It would take the tech no more than 5 min total to do both sides. Wishful thinking I guess.I know this thread is geared up about the removal of a stuck/rusted swinging arm pivot bolt but, the lesson to be learned here is prevention is better than a cure. If only YAMAHA had put a bit of lubricant in there on assembly.
Same thing with complete bikes, it only takes two bobs worth of Diesel in a squirter bottle.
Diesel is a very good penetrant and rust preventer.
I fear you may need to cut through between the frame and swinging arm with a 1mm disc, or drill out from both ends to the diameter of the bolt. Wear steel toecap boots in case it falls out.
Without describing what you have now tried....................Still does not move any.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294397957022?epid=1211875068&hash=item448b7c539e:g:oX8AAOSwVJ5hQeI1I still need two chrome covers that go over the rubber front fork boots. Anyone have one?
Yeah... saw that too. A hundred bucks for the set...
Definitely not cheap. NOS parts for the early bikes bring a premium. Then again what would it cost to buy 2 used ones and have them re-chromed?Yeah... saw that too. A hundred bucks for the set...