Ticking noise when first started.

The best and easiest way to check and/or adjust the cam chain tension is to do so while the bike sits there idling. You want to see the little plunger moving in and out a small amount, maybe a MM or two. If it doesn't move at all, you've set the tension too tight, more than the amount of movement I mentioned, it's too loose. You can demonstrate to yourself what a too loose chain sounds like by loosening the adjuster up until you hear the motor start "ticking". Tighten the adjuster back up and the noise should go away, The way I do it is to tighten the adjuster up until the plunger stops or almost stops moving in and out (too tight), then loosen it back up until I get the desired in-out movement I want (about a MM). This adjustment method is pretty much foolproof and gives you the perfect setting, just a bit looser than "too tight". Also, you want to do this adjustment when the motor is hot and all the parts are expanded. Set it on a cold motor and it may end up too tight once the motor gets hot and the parts expand.
I have to redo it then. I did it with bike cold and not running. Back at it again tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice.
 
The best and easiest way to check and/or adjust the cam chain tension is to do so while the bike sits there idling. You want to see the little plunger moving in and out a small amount, maybe a MM or two. If it doesn't move at all, you've set the tension too tight, more than the amount of movement I mentioned, it's too loose. You can demonstrate to yourself what a too loose chain sounds like by loosening the adjuster up until you hear the motor start "ticking". Tighten the adjuster back up and the noise should go away, The way I do it is to tighten the adjuster up until the plunger stops or almost stops moving in and out (too tight), then loosen it back up until I get the desired in-out movement I want (about a MM). This adjustment method is pretty much foolproof and gives you the perfect setting, just a bit looser than "too tight". Also, you want to do this adjustment when the motor is hot and all the parts are expanded. Set it on a cold motor and it may end up too tight once the motor gets hot and the parts
Good description 5twins.
 
79 this is most likely what you have.
So screwing the 10mm nut clockwise right to tight does increase the tension.
But only screw it in far enough to see that plunger near flush in the hole.
In that near flush position say a mm or 2 in the hole should be close and then you should see movement when the engine is idling
The pic shows the screw bottomed out and the plunger protruding. That would be too tight
IMG_7061.jpeg
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79 this is most likely what you have.
So screwing the 10mm nut clockwise right to tight does increase the tension.
But only screw it in far enough to see that plunger near flush in the hole.
In that near flush position say a mm or 2 in the hole should be close and then you should see movement when the engine is idling
The pic shows the screw bottomed out and the plunger protruding. That would be too tight
View attachment 324954p
Thanks. I gave it another shot. Wiped away the oil, got a good light in there to see. It was too tight, not moving at all. I backed it off to get it moving a bit. Need to take a break for now. Back at it later
 
I tried adjusting with it running but it’s hard to see the plunger due to a bit of oil seeping out. Tried to feel it but it’s hot. At the moment I think it’s way out of adjustment from yesterday. Which direction tightens? Clockwise?
I'm not into hot oil therapy so I pull the plugs and use the e-start motor cold/cool to set the cam chain.
 
I'm not into hot oil therapy so I pull the plugs and use the e-start motor cold/cool to set the cam chain.
I like that way. 👍
I just put a wrench on the rotor nut and rock it back and forth. When you come up on the back side of the exhaust lobe and the front of the intake, It will really load up the chain by rocking in both direction. Take your time.... study it... the in/out movement of the pin is easy to see.
 
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